Front cover and oil pan replacement ???'s
08-06-05, 03:43 PM
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Front cover and oil pan replacement ???'s
I recently found out that my front cover was damaged and leaking major amounts of oil. I need to replace the front cover gasket and fix my oil pan while I'm in there. I just need to know what parts I need and also what parts I should replace while I have everything apart. I just want to get all the parts before I start.
I was thinking about using the RX-8 front gasket as mentioned in a post a few months back. Anyone have any comments about it? I want to do this right the first time because oil leaks bug the **** out of me. I may order the oil pan brace from Gotham in a few days.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
I was thinking about using the RX-8 front gasket as mentioned in a post a few months back. Anyone have any comments about it? I want to do this right the first time because oil leaks bug the **** out of me. I may order the oil pan brace from Gotham in a few days.
Thanks in advance.
Scott
08-06-05, 04:16 PM
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You really need to remove the subframe and replace the oil pan gasket if you intend to fix the leak. Putting a brace over the oil pan is only sticking a band aid over the problem and it will not permanently stop the leak. As far as the front cover gasket. Use the correct part if you intend to do it the right way.
08-06-05, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Neptune.
You really need to remove the subframe and replace the oil pan gasket if you intend to fix the leak. Putting a brace over the oil pan is only sticking a band aid over the problem and it will not permanently stop the leak. As far as the front cover gasket. Use the correct part if you intend to do it the right way.
I know you don't have to remove the subframe to get the pan off. Just release the MM's and jack up the tranny. It's tight but it can be done. If I do anything I will just pull the motor. The oil pan and front cover will be really easy to repair with the motor on an engine stand.
2.I don't plan on trying to "fix" the oil pan by putting a brace on it. I have a paper gasket that is completely trashed so a brace would probably not help at all.
3.I posted this thread to get the part numbers and hear from people that have done it before, but thanks for the suggestion.
Last edited by fdeeznutz; 08-06-05 at 04:41 PM.
08-06-05, 11:19 PM
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I know that it is a big job. I have a few friends that are going to help me knock it out in a day. One of them has built and serviced many FD's and the other is an FC expert. They claim it's not that hard. I guess we'll see.
08-07-05, 08:56 AM
#6
I suppose you can "knock it out in one day", but it will be a long day. You should also let the pan setup once you seal it for at least 24 hours.
While the engine doesn't have to come out, it would be much easier to do everything outside the car. You might want to replace at least 4 of the oil pan bolts with studs. If you are leaving the engine in the car to do the work, the studs will help you line up the pan much better.
Since you are going to be dealing with the front cover, you might want to think about the Thermal Pellet replacement:
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...me.php?cat=500
While the engine doesn't have to come out, it would be much easier to do everything outside the car. You might want to replace at least 4 of the oil pan bolts with studs. If you are leaving the engine in the car to do the work, the studs will help you line up the pan much better.
Since you are going to be dealing with the front cover, you might want to think about the Thermal Pellet replacement:
What does the thermal pellet do?
The thermal pellet (factory one) acts like a thermostat for the oil. When the oil is cold it does not allow full flow to the rotors for cooling but enough for the bearings. As the oil warms up it allows more & more flow. When this fails, it does so in the cold mode, and allows for the rotors to over heats and causes damage to the oil O rings. The thing clients comment on the most is excessive oil smoke at start up, but goes away when warm as the cats clean up the exhaust. Some even notice the oil pressure being slightly lower. Our replacement pellet keeps the engine oil in warm mode so that oil is always flowing to the shaft thus fixing the problem of the faulty factory thermal pellet.
The thermal pellet (factory one) acts like a thermostat for the oil. When the oil is cold it does not allow full flow to the rotors for cooling but enough for the bearings. As the oil warms up it allows more & more flow. When this fails, it does so in the cold mode, and allows for the rotors to over heats and causes damage to the oil O rings. The thing clients comment on the most is excessive oil smoke at start up, but goes away when warm as the cats clean up the exhaust. Some even notice the oil pressure being slightly lower. Our replacement pellet keeps the engine oil in warm mode so that oil is always flowing to the shaft thus fixing the problem of the faulty factory thermal pellet.
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