FMIC or Radiator?
#1
FMIC or Radiator?
I just recently bought a 93 R1 with some mods on it:
New Pettit Streetported Engine w/ 3mm seals
Pettit Cold Air Intake
Pettit 3" DP
Pettit Cat Back 4" Tip
High Flow Cat
TKT Pulley Kit
Aluminum AST
Boost Hose Upgrade
3G Hybrid Turbos
3G Wire Kit
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Pettit Sway Bars
Pettit Short Shifter
Boost Gauge
Upgraded caps(Radiator & Oil)
New Fuel Filter
I have a Apex'i FC on the way but I want to get another safety mod and I don't know if I should get a Radiator first or a FMIC? What kinds do you recomend? I am debating going with a Apex'i FMIC or Greddy or either a Koyo or Fluidyne Radiator. I eventually want both but for now which should I get? Do certain setups go better together, help me out. Thanks.
New Pettit Streetported Engine w/ 3mm seals
Pettit Cold Air Intake
Pettit 3" DP
Pettit Cat Back 4" Tip
High Flow Cat
TKT Pulley Kit
Aluminum AST
Boost Hose Upgrade
3G Hybrid Turbos
3G Wire Kit
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Pettit Sway Bars
Pettit Short Shifter
Boost Gauge
Upgraded caps(Radiator & Oil)
New Fuel Filter
I have a Apex'i FC on the way but I want to get another safety mod and I don't know if I should get a Radiator first or a FMIC? What kinds do you recomend? I am debating going with a Apex'i FMIC or Greddy or either a Koyo or Fluidyne Radiator. I eventually want both but for now which should I get? Do certain setups go better together, help me out. Thanks.
#2
Mr. Links
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Seeing how you have a Power FC on the way, either mod will probably work well for you.
IC upgrade will allow you to run higher levels of boost. However, you'll need to upgrade your injectors (and fuel pump) eventually if you plan on going over 12-13 PSI safely.
The upgraded radiator is more of a reliability upgrade. It won't do much for performance. I really don't think you'll need it here in MO, the fan mod will probably do just fine.
IC upgrade will allow you to run higher levels of boost. However, you'll need to upgrade your injectors (and fuel pump) eventually if you plan on going over 12-13 PSI safely.
The upgraded radiator is more of a reliability upgrade. It won't do much for performance. I really don't think you'll need it here in MO, the fan mod will probably do just fine.
#3
I have a upgraded fuel pump, I knew there was **** I was forgetting. So you don't think a Radiator is too big of a concern around here? What FMIC do you recomend? I had a Greddy on my GSX but I like the Apex'i setup better but I want the best one available. What size injectors should I go with? 850's? I had 660's on my GSX and they were a great help when it came to lean conditions at around 21psi. I want my RX7 to run at least as fast as my 97 GSX which ran a 12.2 I have only had the RX7 for a little while and I have never raced it against any of my friends because I want the ECU first and maybe the FMIC so I have no comparison yet. My GSX felt faster off the line but the RX7 feels faster through 2nd and 3rd. It may just be the fact that RWD cars just feel faster than AWD because my friends Firebird feels a lot faster than my GSX but it wasn't because I would blow him aways out of the hole and he would have to play catch-up the rest of the way. He dynoed at 395rwhp and I never got to dyno mine but on the street we were a good race but at the track he took me every time. I don't want that to happen agian.
#4
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I'm not sure on the injector sizes. I'm sure there is plenty of information here in the forum on performance, duty cycles and such for injectors.
I did a quick search for "injector size" and go a lot of links pulled up, so I'm sure you'll be able to find the information you need for the performance you are looking for...
As for the IC, from what I hear, the GReddy IC sucks ***. Most people seem to prefer the Blitz or M2 IC's. I don't have an upgraded one yet myself, but I'm not going for a FMIC, I'm going to use a SMIC.
I did a quick search for "injector size" and go a lot of links pulled up, so I'm sure you'll be able to find the information you need for the performance you are looking for...
As for the IC, from what I hear, the GReddy IC sucks ***. Most people seem to prefer the Blitz or M2 IC's. I don't have an upgraded one yet myself, but I'm not going for a FMIC, I'm going to use a SMIC.
#5
Do they work as well? I've heard many conflicting theories on SMIC. I do know that they are cheaper and don't require that you relocate your battery but I don't know if they cool as well or how the pressure drops are. I need one within the next month so I'll keep reading to find the best one for me.
#6
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by lane_change
Do they work as well? I've heard many conflicting theories on SMIC. I do know that they are cheaper and don't require that you relocate your battery but I don't know if they cool as well or how the pressure drops are. I need one within the next month so I'll keep reading to find the best one for me.
Do they work as well? I've heard many conflicting theories on SMIC. I do know that they are cheaper and don't require that you relocate your battery but I don't know if they cool as well or how the pressure drops are. I need one within the next month so I'll keep reading to find the best one for me.
Personally, I don't see the need for a FMIC unless you are going Single Turbo, but I'm sure people would disagree on that. You'll need to figure out what boost level you want to be running, then figure out how to safely supply enough fuel (injectors) and then that should help you decide on which IC will be right for you.
I will never go Single Turbo, so that's not a problem for me. Not that I don't have the money, I just don't have the use for that kind of power.
#7
Rotary Master
If you are going to do a FMIC, then do the radiator first, the stock one is barely OK for a stock car, once you block off most of the air, then it will work even less, especially if you ever plan on taking the car to the track. Most FD with FMIC overheat on a road coarse track within a few laps of really hard driving.
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#8
I want to go single eventually but I think if I can run 11's with the twins the why go single? I probably never will go single because I also want to Autocross it and it would be completely useless having 500hp to drive around cones. Who knows. I want reliability and performace, is that too much to ask for. Where do you race in KC?
#9
40k worth of fail
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Originally posted by Johnsrx7
If you are going to do a FMIC, then do the radiator first, the stock one is barely OK for a stock car, once you block off most of the air, then it will work even less, especially if you ever plan on taking the car to the track. Most FD with FMIC overheat on a road coarse track within a few laps of really hard driving.
If you are going to do a FMIC, then do the radiator first, the stock one is barely OK for a stock car, once you block off most of the air, then it will work even less, especially if you ever plan on taking the car to the track. Most FD with FMIC overheat on a road coarse track within a few laps of really hard driving.
#10
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by lane_change
I want to go single eventually but I think if I can run 11's with the twins the why go single? I probably never will go single because I also want to Autocross it and it would be completely useless having 500hp to drive around cones. Who knows. I want reliability and performace, is that too much to ask for. Where do you race in KC?
I want to go single eventually but I think if I can run 11's with the twins the why go single? I probably never will go single because I also want to Autocross it and it would be completely useless having 500hp to drive around cones. Who knows. I want reliability and performace, is that too much to ask for. Where do you race in KC?
As far as running 11 PSI, I don't think you'll make 12.2 in the 1/4 at that, but I could be wrong.
Right now, you'll be better off just getting the radiator and the Power FC (which you already have coming). You can run up to around 12 PSI on stock injectors and IC without too much trouble. If you want to go beyond that, then you'll need to look at those upgrades (IC and injectors).
#11
Originally posted by Mahjik
As far as running 11 PSI, I don't think you'll make 12.2 in the 1/4 at that, but I could be wrong.
As far as running 11 PSI, I don't think you'll make 12.2 in the 1/4 at that, but I could be wrong.
#14
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by lane_change
How well does the Koyo radiator due with the M2 SMIC? Any fittment problems?
How well does the Koyo radiator due with the M2 SMIC? Any fittment problems?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=25732
When/if I upgrade my radiator, I'll use a Fluidyne myself.
#15
I want to be safe first off but I want more power secondly(real close second). I want the best of both worlds and I don't want to pay for it. Know anyone who I could steal one from? J/K. I want it know, I'm addicted to it. We should start a RAA (Rotary addicted anonymous) I need to get a second job so I can have more money to throw away. I think Subway's hiring.
#16
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FD (reliability + power) = big $$$$$$$$$$
if you dont have the money now then take it one step at a time. first get the rad to keep things more reliable and then before you do any serious racing get the FMIC, injectors and please have your PFC tuned properly. until you have enough money for everything and enough to have it done properly then i suggest that you do not try to get much horsepower out of your FD and keep it in anyway reliable. save up more and do everything right the first time
you seem like you know what your talking about but the 7 is a different breed of car. its moody as hell so be careful of what you do, do alot of research and spend alot of money and youll be just fine. then and only then
if you dont have the money now then take it one step at a time. first get the rad to keep things more reliable and then before you do any serious racing get the FMIC, injectors and please have your PFC tuned properly. until you have enough money for everything and enough to have it done properly then i suggest that you do not try to get much horsepower out of your FD and keep it in anyway reliable. save up more and do everything right the first time
you seem like you know what your talking about but the 7 is a different breed of car. its moody as hell so be careful of what you do, do alot of research and spend alot of money and youll be just fine. then and only then
#17
Is there any difference in installation difficulties between the Koyo and Fluidyne. I've heard that Koyo was hard but is Fluidyne any easier? Fluidyne is 38mm while Koyo is 50mm? Correct? Is there mcuh pressure drop from either one. One is bigger, but bigger isn't always better. Thanks
#18
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by lane_change
Is there any difference in installation difficulties between the Koyo and Fluidyne. I've heard that Koyo was hard but is Fluidyne any easier? Fluidyne is 38mm while Koyo is 50mm? Correct? Is there mcuh pressure drop from either one. One is bigger, but bigger isn't always better. Thanks
Is there any difference in installation difficulties between the Koyo and Fluidyne. I've heard that Koyo was hard but is Fluidyne any easier? Fluidyne is 38mm while Koyo is 50mm? Correct? Is there mcuh pressure drop from either one. One is bigger, but bigger isn't always better. Thanks
I've never heard of anyone complaining about the Fluidyne radiators, I only hear good praises about them. So, in this case, I would say that size doesn't matter.
#19
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by lane_change
What size injectors should I go with? 850's? I had 660's on my GSX and they were a great help when it came to lean conditions at around 21psi.
What size injectors should I go with? 850's? I had 660's on my GSX and they were a great help when it came to lean conditions at around 21psi.
#22
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by lane_change
Thanks for the info on the fuel system. I plan on upgrading the fuel system after the FMIC and radiator are in place.
Thanks for the info on the fuel system. I plan on upgrading the fuel system after the FMIC and radiator are in place.
Good luck!
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