3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

Flywheel wont go all the way

Old 01-30-19, 02:21 AM
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Flywheel wont go all the way

why wont my flywheel go on all the way?




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Old 01-30-19, 02:40 AM
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Maybe you need to ajust the key. Take it off amd take a pic to see it.
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Old 01-30-19, 03:09 AM
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Old 01-30-19, 03:42 AM
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^Yep, that'll do it. You might have to remove the key and file any burrs from that divot smooth. I'd also daub a little grease onto the pilot bearing before the transmission goes back on.

Last edited by Sgtblue; 01-30-19 at 07:02 AM.
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Old 01-30-19, 06:59 AM
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If your flywheel won't go all the way you should try a little foreplay. Make it a nice dinner, light candles, buy some flowers, tell it that it's your only flywheel....
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Old 01-30-19, 07:55 AM
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Yep, the key is not where it should be. The key should be flat in the groove.

Also your pilot bearing seal looks chewed up, I would replace that. Don't have to do the whole pilot bearing but the seal for sure.

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Old 01-30-19, 09:39 AM
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Clean up the threads on the eshaft with a wire brush and replace the pilot bearing and seal. Also that rear main seal is aftermarket. Should be orange and have a NOK stamping. I have had every aftermarket seal leak.
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Old 01-30-19, 05:09 PM
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Thanks for all the replies guys, tbh i didnt realise the key was a separate piece that could move lol. How hard is the pilot bearing to remove? As for the aftermarket seal - it bloody better work that thing cost me almost 80 dollars!
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Old 01-30-19, 08:06 PM
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To remove the pilot bearing its not hard, there is an special tool for it, but you can use something else. As for the seal, i would use the orange one for sure,. If that leaks you will have to drop the trans or remove the engine,. I had to buy the orange thanks to IRP post on it.
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Old 01-31-19, 03:36 AM
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$80 (Aus)??? Holy hell. That's about $60 (U.S.). It's been a while since I bought one but IIRC the last OEM main seal I bought wasn't much more than $20 (U.S.) shipped.



You need a blind bearing puller for the pilot bearing. Above is the MAZDA SST, but inexpensive pullers are available here through stores like Harbor Freight and Northern Tool. Putting the new one in can also be a little fiddly. But they’re right, that bearing will likely start making noise in short order and you'll have to pull the transmission again to fix it.

Last edited by Sgtblue; 01-31-19 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 01-31-19, 05:56 PM
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Yeah ive found this one from rhdjapan which is only 20nzd so ill get that along with my new pilot bearing and seal. Is it worth me getting anything else for the new clutch in the same order? I was planning on using the same clutch bolts but now im not so sure.

Also i dont have a bearing puller so i tried the old bread and bolt method but all that did was make a mess
Well thats not entirely true it did get the seal out but i think ill try with grease next.

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Old 02-01-19, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Aramir View Post
.Is it worth me getting anything else for the new clutch in the same order? I was planning on using the same clutch bolts but now im not so sure....
You can re-use the pressure plate bolts.

Off-hand other things to consider:
*Re-torque the engine tension bolts per the Factory Service Manual (Free)...just need a torque wrench)
*Consider a new clutch throw-out bearing if is original/high mileage
*A new REAR seal on the transmission (cheap....IIRC the last one I bought was < $15 U.S.)
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