I just replaced my clutch and I am getting some strange chatter as I am about to fully release the clutch pedal in neutral. (I have not driven the car yet, so I have no clue how it is in gear)

In my mind - Two possobilities:

1) The Flywheel is not seated all the way. I used my craftsman 30 gal, 6.8 scfm at 90 psi, and a 1/2 Chicago Pheumatic 550 ft/lbs impact gun to tighten the big flywheel bolt. However, after the sucker stopped moving anymore, there were still about 2 threads exposed on the nut. Is this flywheel not on all the way?

2) I got all new clutch hydroulics, and the slave clutch cylinder may not be bled fully yet. Can an poorly bled system cause clutch chatter?

Other relevant info: I have a 91 n/a, and just did a TII drivetrain swap. Used an S5 TII flywheel, RB S/s clutch and PP, and an S4 TII tranny. All the plumbing is new, and the throwout bearing is new as well.

What is the chatter I'm hearing? And how sould I fix it?
Thanks,
-a

 

anyone have any ideas?

 

did you change the front counterweight as well to the T2 one? I thought you had to change both. Also does the noise get any worse or better when the clutch pedal is pushed in or let out?( I know you said it happens when letting it out,....TO bearings sometimes make noise and it changes when pedal is pushed)

Did you torque down the Pressure plate evenly or did you hit those bolts with the 550ftlb impact too ( just kidding,.. but really they need to be torqued evenly.

 

I'd hold off on speculating till you can get the car running. Juddering while disengageing in neutral sounds kinda strange.

Did you remove the cosmoline from the pressure plate before you installed it? That can make for hellaciuos juddering..

j.p.

 

Good point!! Those anti-corrosive agents can make a new clutch slip like a dogg if not taken off.

 

did you make sure the keyway on the flywheel meshed good with the e-shaft?

 

Yes. I made sure the keyway is lined up.
Yes. I dereased the PP also.
The front counterweight does not need to be changed. During a swap, the flywheel just needs to match the series engine your swapping to.

I will bleed the system and report back.

In the mean time, if anyone has any other ideas...please post up.

 

You will probably find that it will go away after a bit. Sounds as tho you didnt get the fly wheel clean. You should taken a light sanding disc to it befor instalation of a new clutch. It should look all shiny and new, but if you didn't, it will do it for a bit, but then go away as the clutch breaks in.

PS..this is also why the old timers will tell you to have your fly wheel turned, but a good disc, the same one you remove old gasket with, will do the trick.


Leslie

 

*EXPOSED ON THE NUT*

That is not right. No threads should be showing *ON THE NUT*. There will be approx one thread protursion of the ECCENTRIC SHAFT threads showing after the nut is installed. As in one thread of the ECCENTRIC SHAFT threads showing but NO flywheel NUT threads showing.

If you saw NUT THREADS.....then go back and redo what ain't on right.

SORRY. I edited this to correct a fubar.

 

Yeah, that is the case here. There are threads exposed onthe nut. What I dont get is that I used a 450 ft/lbs gun to fasten it the first time...then I re-tightened it with a 550 ft/lbs gun the second time.

The shaft key is lined up, and the shaft was lightly greased to facilitate the mounting. I didnt think the taper on the shaft would be this much of a bitch.

 

I took the clutch off a spare engine I have to make sure before I posted my above reply. And that is what I have and what I remember from the past installs.

I'm not real sure just what went wrong with yours. Is it possible that on the front end of the E-Shaft that the so called torrington bearing has dropped down??? As in this FAQ from the MazdaTrix site???? I'm not sure if that is a possibility when you remove the flywheel. Just a thought. http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

Pull the flywheel/nut and maybe you'll find what it was. Sometimes that woodruff key gets cocked??? Things might have JAMMED????

 

sometimes the key gets pushed back when the flywheel is slid on the eshaft causing the flywheel not to go on all the way. this kept happening to me but thinkfully i noticed it b4 i put everything back together. good luck and sorry for the badnews

 

I was just talking with a buddy of mine who is a Mustang guy, and he suggested that maybe there is a buildup of oxidation on the e-shaft and/or the flywheel mating surfaces. He suggested that I hit it with some steel wool to get the surfaces clean, and see if they will actually seat properly.

Does this sound reasonable? That some oxidation would cause enough of a problem in the tolerances to not let the flywheel seat properly?

-a

 

I vote with SMOKIN. You got the key jammed. It happens.

 

So if that is the case...what do I do next? Is there a way to fix that?

 

Only think you can do is pull the flywheel back off and reposition the key in the eshaft. You will have to file the key down on the top cus you gonna have a nice grove on the top of it. I put a little bit of lock tight in the key way and then placed the key in the slot and let it dry for a minute to keep the key from moving when you place the flywheel on there. It still might slide back, but you will get it eventually.

 

is there a flywheel washer? I cant remember or not...

 

No.