Flywheel counterweight question
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Flywheel counterweight question
Hey lads,
I went to buy a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and a ACT prolite flywheel today for my 1993 rx-7 and the dealer told me I need to order a counterweight that was a extra $200.
I was just wondering if this is true or not
I went to buy a ACT 6 puck sprung clutch and a ACT prolite flywheel today for my 1993 rx-7 and the dealer told me I need to order a counterweight that was a extra $200.
I was just wondering if this is true or not
#3
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Yep, it's true. Best bet is to track down a used counterweight - they're from the automatic FD's, the flex plate bolts to the counterweight.
Dale
Dale
#5
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
I'll add some useful info to this thread since were swapping out balanced parts for something else!
You can install the auto counter weight just understand that whatever counter weight you put on, your rotating assembly will no longer be in perfect balance unless you find a counter weight that is balanced to your internal rotor weights. You'll notice holes drilled on the factory manual flywheel that your removing. Mazda balances each rotating assembly for three main reasons. 1. To prolong the bearings life. 2. To eliminate any unnecessary stress on the e-shaft and stationary gears. 3. Over smooth operation. Ideally you would want to know the rotor weights inside your engine. Knowing this you can find a used counter weight that is balanced for your particular rotating assembly. If you don't know (most never do) try if all possible to find a counter weight that is off of a "C" weight rotating assembly. That's considered the middle range between A-F which is Mazda's rotor weight range. Reason for this is if you have A-B rotors inside your engine and you put on a used counter weight from another engine that's balanced for E-F rotors, your rotating assembly will be way off balance. This is why a "C" weight counter weight is the best option if you don't know your internal rotor weights. Hope that helps.
You can install the auto counter weight just understand that whatever counter weight you put on, your rotating assembly will no longer be in perfect balance unless you find a counter weight that is balanced to your internal rotor weights. You'll notice holes drilled on the factory manual flywheel that your removing. Mazda balances each rotating assembly for three main reasons. 1. To prolong the bearings life. 2. To eliminate any unnecessary stress on the e-shaft and stationary gears. 3. Over smooth operation. Ideally you would want to know the rotor weights inside your engine. Knowing this you can find a used counter weight that is balanced for your particular rotating assembly. If you don't know (most never do) try if all possible to find a counter weight that is off of a "C" weight rotating assembly. That's considered the middle range between A-F which is Mazda's rotor weight range. Reason for this is if you have A-B rotors inside your engine and you put on a used counter weight from another engine that's balanced for E-F rotors, your rotating assembly will be way off balance. This is why a "C" weight counter weight is the best option if you don't know your internal rotor weights. Hope that helps.
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I'll add some useful info to this thread since were swapping out balanced parts for something else!
You can install the auto counter weight just understand that whatever counter weight you put on, your rotating assembly will no longer be in perfect balance unless you find a counter weight that is balanced to your internal rotor weights. You'll notice holes drilled on the factory manual flywheel that your removing. Mazda balances each rotating assembly for three main reasons. 1. To prolong the bearings life. 2. To eliminate any unnecessary stress on the e-shaft and stationary gears. 3. Over smooth operation. Ideally you would want to know the rotor weights inside your engine. Knowing this you can find a used counter weight that is balanced for your particular rotating assembly. If you don't know (most never do) try if all possible to find a counter weight that is off of a "C" weight rotating assembly. That's considered the middle range between A-F which is Mazda's rotor weight range. Reason for this is if you have A-B rotors inside your engine and you put on a used counter weight from another engine that's balanced for E-F rotors, your rotating assembly will be way off balance. This is why a "C" weight counter weight is the best option if you don't know your internal rotor weights. Hope that helps.
You can install the auto counter weight just understand that whatever counter weight you put on, your rotating assembly will no longer be in perfect balance unless you find a counter weight that is balanced to your internal rotor weights. You'll notice holes drilled on the factory manual flywheel that your removing. Mazda balances each rotating assembly for three main reasons. 1. To prolong the bearings life. 2. To eliminate any unnecessary stress on the e-shaft and stationary gears. 3. Over smooth operation. Ideally you would want to know the rotor weights inside your engine. Knowing this you can find a used counter weight that is balanced for your particular rotating assembly. If you don't know (most never do) try if all possible to find a counter weight that is off of a "C" weight rotating assembly. That's considered the middle range between A-F which is Mazda's rotor weight range. Reason for this is if you have A-B rotors inside your engine and you put on a used counter weight from another engine that's balanced for E-F rotors, your rotating assembly will be way off balance. This is why a "C" weight counter weight is the best option if you don't know your internal rotor weights. Hope that helps.
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#9
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hey people,
I am in kinda the same boat. Need to change the clutch so was contemplating weather to go for a lightened flywheel. Seems like its not a good idea to change to a lightened flywheel unless its going to be balanced with your rotors. ( Since i don't know what kinda rotors are in my engine) the only time i would want to get a lightened flywheel is when I do find out which rotors are in my engine and get the whole rotating assembly balanced when i rebuild my engine.
Auto Counter weights ?? how good are they? do they really help balancing the engine?
I am in kinda the same boat. Need to change the clutch so was contemplating weather to go for a lightened flywheel. Seems like its not a good idea to change to a lightened flywheel unless its going to be balanced with your rotors. ( Since i don't know what kinda rotors are in my engine) the only time i would want to get a lightened flywheel is when I do find out which rotors are in my engine and get the whole rotating assembly balanced when i rebuild my engine.
Auto Counter weights ?? how good are they? do they really help balancing the engine?
#10
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Hay and this is from left field. I need a heavier flywheel and starter motor. I've almost 100% converted to diesel fuel and need the mass to keep compression going.
I have an act lightened fly with cw. My question is would this counterweight work bolted onto my stock fly? Or should I just get my head examined.
I have an act lightened fly with cw. My question is would this counterweight work bolted onto my stock fly? Or should I just get my head examined.
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In my case, i had my rotors lightened when the engine was rebuilt and had them balanced along with the stock flywheel. Along with the rebuilt, i also went for a single turbo setup. Now i need to change the clutch as it's still an OEM item. What kind of clutch can i buy that handles 480bhp but still retain the stock flywheel ? I only find ACT. Any recommendations please? Thanks!
#13
Goodfalla Engine Complete
iTrader: (28)
Might as well stick with ACT. Many members have had very good experiences with them. For your power levels, you might need to go with the zx6-hdg6 setup, or the zx6-xtss. HD pressure plate would need the at least the sprung six puck disk to have the strength required for your power level. The XT pressure plate should be able to hold with the Street Strip disk.
Because you are keeping the stock flywheel, your drivability should stay pretty tame. The drawbacks of each setup:
Zx6-hdg6: (rated to 510 ft/lbs)
The six puck sprung disk may take a little getting used to to avoid chatter, but not having a lightweight flywheel should alleviate this somewhat. But using this disk will allow you to use the heavy duty pressure plate to avoid the heavier pedal feel of the extreme pressure plate.
Zx6-xtss: (rated to 450 ft/lbs)
The extreme pressure plate will require more pedal effort but the street/strip disk will have smoother engagement than the six puck.
I personally have the zx6-hdss (rated to 400 ft/lbs) combination, which is the heavy duty pressure plate and the street/strip disk. However, my power level goals are only around 400 horsepower. I am hoping I don't have to upgrade but time will tell.
Because you are keeping the stock flywheel, your drivability should stay pretty tame. The drawbacks of each setup:
Zx6-hdg6: (rated to 510 ft/lbs)
The six puck sprung disk may take a little getting used to to avoid chatter, but not having a lightweight flywheel should alleviate this somewhat. But using this disk will allow you to use the heavy duty pressure plate to avoid the heavier pedal feel of the extreme pressure plate.
Zx6-xtss: (rated to 450 ft/lbs)
The extreme pressure plate will require more pedal effort but the street/strip disk will have smoother engagement than the six puck.
I personally have the zx6-hdss (rated to 400 ft/lbs) combination, which is the heavy duty pressure plate and the street/strip disk. However, my power level goals are only around 400 horsepower. I am hoping I don't have to upgrade but time will tell.
#15
Goodfalla Engine Complete
iTrader: (28)
No problem at all.
The part number you first listed (zx6-xtg6) is the (xt) extreme pressure plate with the (g6) six puck sprung clutch disk. You won't need to purchase any other part numbers if you get the kit you listed first.
The way their part numbers break down for clutch kits it like this
Zx6- (rx7 bolt pattern)
XT (pressure plate designator)
G6 (clutch disk designator)
If you are going with the G6 clutch disk, I'd probably recommend the HD pressure plate. Just because I personally like to have the minimum amount of pressure on the clutch fork as possible.
Best of luck with whichever route you go with. I have seen very few issues with ACT setups.
The part number you first listed (zx6-xtg6) is the (xt) extreme pressure plate with the (g6) six puck sprung clutch disk. You won't need to purchase any other part numbers if you get the kit you listed first.
The way their part numbers break down for clutch kits it like this
Zx6- (rx7 bolt pattern)
XT (pressure plate designator)
G6 (clutch disk designator)
If you are going with the G6 clutch disk, I'd probably recommend the HD pressure plate. Just because I personally like to have the minimum amount of pressure on the clutch fork as possible.
Best of luck with whichever route you go with. I have seen very few issues with ACT setups.
#18
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sorry for bringing this back from the dead; but I thought I ask my question on here.
I purchased an Exedy Twin Carbon "D" clutch kit (ZM022SBMC1) & the FD automatic counterweight (N3Y2-11-52X).
the Exedy clutch kit came with a bag of 6 bolts for the center mounting of the counterweight; but, I'm concerned with regards to the length on them (3/4") and if it is going to be long enough to go through the flywheel/Counter-Weight and torque it to spec.
Any help on this is would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much for your time
I purchased an Exedy Twin Carbon "D" clutch kit (ZM022SBMC1) & the FD automatic counterweight (N3Y2-11-52X).
the Exedy clutch kit came with a bag of 6 bolts for the center mounting of the counterweight; but, I'm concerned with regards to the length on them (3/4") and if it is going to be long enough to go through the flywheel/Counter-Weight and torque it to spec.
Any help on this is would be greatly appreciated.
thank you very much for your time
#19
Rotary Freak
They sound the correct ones. Low profile 17mm (from memory) heads, black oxide coated, 10mm fine.
Usual rule of thumb for threaded joints is 1 1/2 times the diameter of the fastener for engagement, first 3 threads take something like 90% of the load - or thereabouts anyway.
Usual rule of thumb for threaded joints is 1 1/2 times the diameter of the fastener for engagement, first 3 threads take something like 90% of the load - or thereabouts anyway.
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