billt

iTrader: (1)

Should I use "right stuff" or "right stuff for imports" for sealing my oil pan...or does it really matter? I'm using the studs & no gasket but I'm not sure which permatex gasket maker to use. Thanks-Bill

Railgun

Ultra black works fine. That's what I used and it's leak free.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Either right stuff is fine. The one for imports seems thinner to me and easier to spread. These are the only sealants I'll use on the oil pan.

20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

+2 for the black right stuff for imports, now if only I could find my tube I'd get alot more done lol.

billt

iTrader: (1)

Thank you.
What's the "right way" to apply the "right stuff"? Should I apply to both surfaces or just the pan? Circle around the bolt holes or not? Thanks again.

20B 3 Rotor

iTrader: (7)

what I did, because I wanted to make for sure that I wouldnt have to take it all apart again, was:

Oil Pan:

1. first got the main gasket junk off by using a metal scraper, that spatula looking painters tool that I cant think of the name right now

2. then I used a metal brush circular tool that we had on a grinder wheel at work, nothing to abrasive, just enough to get in the crevices and the get rid of the smaller pieces ( you dont want something that will scratch up the surface of the oil pan)

3. after that I used a spray on gasket remover, I suggest you wear gloves if you use that stuff because it burnt the **** outta my hands

4. if you have access to a parts washer, I used this to clean out the inside of the pan just in case any old gasket material got in there and also any old oil sludge

Underside of the engine:

1. I used the spatula type scraper again to get ride of the main ****

2. then just the spray on remover to help get rid of the smaller stuck on stuff with the help of a brush, again nothing to abrasive

3. then for the bolt holes holding the pan to the engine, I sprayed some of the gasket remover in there, used a screw tap to make sure there was no left over gasket, then compressed air to make sure the holes were dry ( I wanted to make sure there was no left over gasket in the bolt holes because the last thing you want is for those holes to crack)

As for applying the gasket, I put it on the bolt threads and the underside of the bolt head, in a circle around each bolt hole, and equally all around the oil pan (you dont need to put the sealant on the underside of the engine). Just make sure you dont put too much on, because whatever squeezes out will be the same amount that squeezes into the inside pan and you dont want any of this stuff gumming it up.

billt

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's why I'm asking all these questions-I do not want to do this all over again 10k miles down the road. I'm definitely going to clean all the surfaces & tap the holes, as well as circle all bolt holes with the gasket goop (I'm using the right stuff for imports). I just ordered an oil pan brace & poly mounts from Banzai Racing (might as well go 100% while I'm in there). I replaced the driver's side mount last year with a steel OEM one & will use the Banzai Racing poly with the OEM steel brackets. This should allow me to compress the poly enough for my M2 "airpump friendly" IC hardpipe to clear my Cusco strut. Thanks for the advice-Bill

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Hondabond here. I also used some reducer on a rag to remove any possible residue of oil on the mating surfaces of pan and block. A pan brace was used too.
Be sure to torque everything to spec in the FSM and let whatever you use cure at least 2 to 3 days.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Make sure everything is clean and free of oil an any old gasket material. I only apply the sealant to the oil pan. I put a thick, even bead all around. Then spread it with the side of my finger so it is smooth like a gasket, covering the entire mating surface. I use an oil pan brace and usually a stud kit. I never use the junk paper gasket. All fd oil pans will eventually leak because of the flawed design, but mine never do for quite some time.

billt

iTrader: (1)

I ended up dropping the subframe-made things much easier & quicker. I'm going to use brake cleaner on both mating surfaces, is there anything better? Thanks again for all your help-Bill

badddrx7

iTrader: (7)

Be sure to torque everything to spec in the FSM and let whatever you use cure at least 2 to 3 days.


VERY important here - Without putting any oil in the engine UNTIL the curing time is done.


LAter

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I can't imagine doing the job without dropping the oil pan. I let it sit 24 hours without oil to cure, though the right stuff says it makes an instant seal. Brake cleaner is fine.

billt

iTrader: (1)

I know there are plenty of threads that mention Ray Crowe but I just gotta say his support for the FD crowd is really incredible. He came through once again when I ordered a couple of steering rack boots, oil level sensor o-ring & turbo control actuator c-clip without ever talking to him. I just left a message, he charged my account and I received everything the next day
Malloy Mazda:
toll free:888-533-3400
parts direct:703-490-8263
hmkparts@aol.com

billt

iTrader: (1)

Just an interesting side note-my original Mazda engine did not have a paper gasket. They ran two beads of their OEM gray sealant on the wide part of the flange, a single bead on the narrow flange (front) and circled the engine mount holes in the rear. Since I'm the original owner & the oil pan has never been touched I'm thinking maybe Mazda tossed the paper gasket and started using their gray sealant sometime in '95.

billt

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed a few threads lately on oil pan leaks and also know that most people don't bother to post their results once a particular problem is fixed, so here's what's happening 2 1/2 years after playing around with my oil pan-nothing is happening (no leaks, zero). So here's how I fixed my leaking oil pan:
1.) cleaned all surfaces with a razor and also brake fluid
2.) used the right stuff for imports, followed OEM liquid gasket pattern mentioned above, did NOT use the paper gasket
3.) made sure the oil pan flange was straight all around
4.) installed new poly engine mounts from Banzai
5.) used an oil pan brace with studs from Banzai
6.) cleaned all threads prior to installing studs
7.) let dry for 72 hours prior to filling with oil
8.) also installed engine torque damper (don't know how much this helps, but it can't hurt, and I'm listing it because I actually do have one installed)
This is just my experience but again, I have had ZERO leakage in the past 2 1/2 years since taking these measures. Hats off to everyone that helped me out and answered all of my questions. Again, thanks also to Ray Crowe!

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

one cures faster than the other, I'd get the slower curing one.

why? well, when i resealed mine using studs, dimpled pan and pan brace, I used the faster curing one and it took me a while to get everything lined up correctly and the sealant had started to skin already.

so it started leaking again not too long after... im going with an xsessive o-ringed pan next with some halomar

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

what about using the Right Stuff on the housing legs??

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Update. After many years of successful use I am no longer using "the right stuff" for oil pans. Permatex seems to have changed the formula and it is not rated for exposure to gasoline. Since all rotaries inherently have some blowby, the oil tends to get diluted with gasoline. I've had a few leak on me recently. I am now using Permatex Ultra Black, which is their highest chemical resistant formula.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

the correct sealer matters since the rails are BELOW the oil level. most silicones become porous when exposed to gasoline and in the process also lose 30% of their strength. gasoline of course finds it's way into our oil.

i did a comparison between 7 silicones the details of which i added to post one on my thread "Oil Pan Tec."........... it is near the bottom of post one. i found one silicone was significantly better than the other 6.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-tech-1039223/

unfortunately i did not include the silicone that works for IRP.

Howard

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^Yep. Almost 7 years since I posted in this thread and over 9 since sealing my pan...HondaBond still holding just fine.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Which hondabond did you use? I believe the ultra flange ii is specifically for gasket less oil pans.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Not certain...too many years ago. I went to a Honda dealership near my house, told the guy at the parts/service window what I was doing and he sold me a tube. So probably the stuff you reference. I'll check some old photos of the rebuild and see if it happens to be in there, and post up if I find it.

Smokey The Talon

iTrader: (33)

Hondabond HT. you can get it on Amazon or any honda motorcycle dealer usually. I've sealed my trans pan and diff covers with it as well and it always works great.