While I have been building and wrenching on cars ever since I was a little kid, the computer side of cars is something that has always been intimidating to me. I love to learn new things, and now since I don't have a choice it's time to jump into the deep end.

I have been working on my current 93 touring build for awhile now, and shes about ready to be running. So it's time for me to learn basic tuning on my Haltech to get her running for break in miles. I've read all the threads on here regarding tuning on the Haltech platform, as well as places like HP academy and facebook groups. Tuning is an absolute foreign language to me that I don't know even where to begin. In my free time i've fiddled around with enough to figure out how to input sensors and their voltage ranges to read correctly. Besides that, I loaded up a Haltech S6 single turbo base map and wondered if that would be enough to get her going for break in. But I want to know, I want to learn.

I know that there are changes that need to be made to the base map. I just don't know where they need to be changed.

Changes made to the car that are connected to the ecu have been:

• 2 ID1050 primary injectors
• 2 ID1700 secondary injectors
• IGN1A coils with a direct fire harness
• 460lph fuel pump
• Fuel pressure sensor
• Fuel temp sensor
• Oil pressure sensor
• Oil temp sensor
• Haltech WB1
• Map sensor built into Haltech ecu
• Haltech/GM Intake air temp sensor
• Boost controller located on BW EFR 8374

Besides that everything else is stock. If anyone has guidance on how to start learning what everything does and why everything does I would truly appreciate it.

Thank you

 

Buddy.... to configure all the sensors and the equipment you have, its going to take some time. the NSP software is somewhat intuitive as it gives you the end result and forces you to work backwards to figure it out. to try and explain setting up a base map over the forum would require its own forum. take each thing one at a time and go that way. if you bought a pre made harness that has provisions for all your sensors then you need only assign the pins and calibrate the sensors. calibration data would be available on their individual websites. if you used all haltech sensors then it will have been included.

dead times will be on the ID website

coil settings are pre loaded in the haltech so you just go to the drop down and select them

when you do get it started, you will need to set base timing before doing anything else. take your time and you will get through it. if you have any specific questions then we will be able to help but to walk you through the process from scratch is just not a good idea or will be effective

 

Thank you very much for the reply and I definitely agree, i've kind of given myself information overload over the past couple of weeks. But I've done that. I made the sub harness for the sensors myself but I already configured the sensor pin out and calibrated them, and given them their 5V pull up if needed. I set the coils to IGN1A and to direct fire. Every sensor that I wired in reads and reads correctly. I just need to set flow rates and dead times for injectors

My questions more so are, ignition and fuel tuning related right now. I was wondering if the fuel and ignition tables that Haltech provides for their single turbo base map are good enough to get the car running? And if not, what tweaks should I look into making. (I wanted to attach my current base map, but don't know how)

Thank you

 

Ok cool. You have the hard part done. The timing and fuel maps are fine for start up, driving and idle. Cranking fuel and post start correction may or may not need adjusting but it will still start whether it be rough or smooth. You'll just be dialing it in to make it smoother.

My advice is to stay out of the timing map and leave that to a tuner. The fuel map though, play around in there and get everything up to ~5psi dialed in the best you can. Its really difficult to hurt anything just doing that so you can dip your toe at least without much concern.

From 0psi to 5psi, target low 12 afr and figure out everything else. Giving you the answer would be too easy for you lol.

There are million sub menus and so on that affect a lot of different things. Many of which can be disabled. Take your time and go one menu at a time. Listen to the car and what it's telling you. With the elite, you can achieve near oem drivability but don't chase it. Even the best tuners struggle with it.

Focus on getting the car smooth and drivability dialed in. Tip in, idle, cold start, hot start and so on. Majority of the settings are either fuel related or some compensation percentage or something. Extremely low risk in hurting anything in these settings so move with confidence.

 

Thank you very much! You really helped me open my eyes to just dialing in fuel to chase an AFR. Which I knew was the way it had to be done, but my brain wanted to believe there was more voodoo to it lol. Thank you for the help and the confidence boost in dialing things in for break in

 

This is what you want... Well worth it for the DIY guy that wants to learn to tune.

Haltech Elite NSP Training Course - Evans Performance Academy


Steve

 

AWESOME! I've wanted to look into a tuning school/course for awhile and thought that to be my only way of finding out what to do. But I wanted to ask all of you knowledgeable people first. Thank you for that recommendation and I will definitely look into that

 

I agree the HP Academy and Evans Performance classes are useful. Also, I think it's wise to research how to use a timing light, and where the timing mark is on your engine, and how to synchronize the ECU timing using the Haltech software. The goal is to confirm that when the ECU says the ignition is at +10 degrees BTDC the timing light agrees the spark is actually happening at +10 degrees and not +15 or +5 degrees. Just like it would be unsafe to run 5 (or 10!) degrees too much ignition advance in the timing map, it's unsafe if the ECUs timing sync is wrong by 5 (or 10!) degrees.

 

ive also been taught to start at idle and work my way up. once you get the timing sorted, you can tune the idle, hot and cold starts etc.
its not exciting, but it is helpful to have something that starts and runs

 

Update:

The car runs! Kind of...

It runs really rough and I can't seem to fix it. It doesn't want to fire into idle unless I give it some throttle and then itll start, but if I don't constantly aid it with throttle and instead let it try and idle it will just die, I know that means it needs less fuel, I just don't know how to adjust for that. Along with that, the ecu gives me "Engine position error" everytime it starts even though I am on the stock trigger system for the FD, has anyone else ran into this issue before?

And finally, my wideband for whatever reason is not getting a signal at all, and have checked over my wiring 100 times at this point and am waiting for Haltech to get back to me so I can hopefully get that fully sorted.

 

Theres a setting in there called trigger arming voltage. Sounds like your values are low. These are one of the things that vary from car to car. The haltech base map is just a starting point of course. There are minor and sometimes major things that vary from car to car with no real explanation. It's just how it goes

 

At least you have some progress. If it dies immediately than it is lean. If it dies with some struggle (as if going out of breath) then it is rich. You need to figure your wideband before proceeding, anyways.
Having/enabling ISC valve will greatly help with your idle tuning. I'm not familiar with "Engine position error", but it sounds serious.

 

I did some research and couldn't find what exactly I need to be looking at in order to make the correct adjustments for that. Would you be able to provide insight there as to how to go about properly setting that, or is it more so just changing values until things level out?


Yea, she seems to be "running out of breath" when I let off the throttle. Like she wants to idle and then dies. Thankfully I got the wideband working this morning after some diving and got it sorted.

 

For the 200rpm cell, increase it until starting improves. You'll probably end up at 1.5 or somewhere around there. You'll increase that number, which is probably 0.2 default, until it starts like normal. It shouldn't crank for more than 3 seconds or so before starting.