MavrickFD

All I have is a basic socket wrench and ratchet set with needle nose pliers. I failed my state inspection for worn rear brake pads and I'm low on cash so I decided to do it myself. All I'm worried about is putting the calipers back on and bleeding the brake system. Will I need any other tools?

TailHappy

More than likely. You're probably going to need a BIG socket wrench to loosen the bolts. They are going to be tight, and need to be put back tightly.

Also, you'll probably need to go to your local parts store and get the universal piston adapter (there's probably a proper name for that). The rear pistons rotate back in as opposed to just pushing back in like the fronts do. The adapter makes that a lot easier and keeps you from messing up the piston from trying to use a tool that doesn't fit.

I think that's about all that comes to mind assuming you have jacks/jackstands/lugnut wrenches, etc.

You shouldn't necessarily have to bleed the system as long as you don't loosen the bleeder. Though I always like to bleed the system while I'm in there since that's the easiest time to do it.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

New brake pads will be much thicker than the old ones.

This means the piston will need to be screwed back into the caliper.

When doing that, you need to open the bleeder. If you don't open the bleeder, you risk damaging the master cylinder. There is a check valve in OEM MC's - opening the bleed screw is a necessary step when changing pads.

amp

iTrader: (50)

why do you need to open the bleeder...
relieve pressure from opening the master cylinder cap..

nolimitniceguy

yeah you dont need to bleed the brakes, just remove the master cylinder lid... be careful it might overflow when u press the pistons back in

DigDug

I recently bought one of these at my local Advance Auto for pushing the pistons back in:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...tnumber=T71921

Sure beats my old plier method.

yuichiror

iTrader: (1)

Sweet! And only ten bucks!

Hey Flynn, I'm off from tomorrow till Tuesday if you want to do the brakes this weekend.

SINxSELEKTAH

iTrader: (2)

when you're screwing back the piston, just open up the lid to your filler, bleeding isn't necessary

Sandro

iTrader: (1)

Follow these tips

http://www.fd3s.net/brake_job.html#REA

Better to open bleeder valves when retracting the pistons and avoid pushing back dirty fluid to the ABS system.

and this is the tool you need to retract the pistons

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

SINxSELEKTAH

iTrader: (2)

opening bleeder valves would allow dirt to enter the pressurized brake system. especially since bleeder valves are covered with dirt. unless propperly cleaned, then it's a good way to start.

Sandro

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what SINxSELEKTAH is trying to say...

Just to clarify:

- any fluid (including brake fluid) always flow from high pressure to low pressure
- if you open the bleeder valves first, there is no fluid flowing because the brake system is at rest and is not pressurized
- when you retract the pistons you pressurize the brake system and fluid will flow out of the bleeder valves - there is nothing to be afraid of - on the contrary it's a good time to get rid of old dirty fluid - just make sure to keep refilling the master cylinder to avoid level going to low and air entering the system
- if you don't open the bleeder valves and just open the master cylinder cap instead, when you retract the piston and pressurize the system, chances are that some dirty brake fluid will enter the ABS portion of the brake system, which is undesirable

In any event, it is good practice to bleed the brake system regularly - if you haven't done it in a while, you will be surprised how much black liquor will come out of those bleeder valves.

amp

iTrader: (50)

its negligible.. unless of course you dont change fluids on schedule..
considerin its just to clear a pad.. most dont retract it far enough to be of any major concern..
of course its good practice to bleed at this time if you havent already done so..