First test drive on new engine and hating life!!
#1
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First test drive on new engine and hating life!!
Well I finally got my whole car back together. One problem, i still can't get mroe than 11-12" vacuum. before with stock port I got 12. drove it like that and blew the damn engine. Now I have 11 wiht my strettported engine with 3.5 miles on it. I adjusted out fuel at idle etc, b/c I got rid of teh airpump. Ever since I haev gotten rid of the airpump I cannot get it to idle worth ****. I have everything blocked off except the the out tube that supplies main cat, it is just dangling.(well actually removed but hole is open).
Anyway, my point is, I have never gotten my car to run right without airpump. I went from 17" to 12" of vacuum and a correspondingly rich and rough idle. BTW to get teh 11 or 12 I hasve to open the air adjustmetn screw all the way, adn idle at 950 rpm.
So help me out, I refuse to think you cannot run without aitpump, I mean people are doing it all day. I just replaced motor myself with all new gaskets, etc.
It is driving me crazy!!!!
Anyway, my point is, I have never gotten my car to run right without airpump. I went from 17" to 12" of vacuum and a correspondingly rich and rough idle. BTW to get teh 11 or 12 I hasve to open the air adjustmetn screw all the way, adn idle at 950 rpm.
So help me out, I refuse to think you cannot run without aitpump, I mean people are doing it all day. I just replaced motor myself with all new gaskets, etc.
It is driving me crazy!!!!
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Originally posted by Import Convert
It might be normal to have low vaccum before your engine breaks in. I remember hearing that someplace.
It might be normal to have low vaccum before your engine breaks in. I remember hearing that someplace.
there is something a miss, I am debating just going back to using the airpump, that woudl admitting being beat..argh there must be a way. Everyone I talk to about airpump either say didn't notice a difference , or it ran like **** so I put it back on.
BTW, engine runs very well otherwise, I am really happy wiht how the install went.
#6
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Calm down it is ok we will get thru this!!
well I had a situation like this once before and i ended up resetting the timing get your shop manual! now check it out this is what I did.
1.) air bleed screw tight'n all the way (close it)
2.) get a jumperwire jump it from ground to ten
3.) take your hand and turn the main pulley back so it lines up with the yellow hash mark on the pin indicator.
4.)idle screw loosen all the way up!
5.)cranker over and just set the idle and it should flat'n out real smooth!
if that is not it call me
301-370-0567
-Ryan
well I had a situation like this once before and i ended up resetting the timing get your shop manual! now check it out this is what I did.
1.) air bleed screw tight'n all the way (close it)
2.) get a jumperwire jump it from ground to ten
3.) take your hand and turn the main pulley back so it lines up with the yellow hash mark on the pin indicator.
4.)idle screw loosen all the way up!
5.)cranker over and just set the idle and it should flat'n out real smooth!
if that is not it call me
301-370-0567
-Ryan
#7
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BTW, when you had the motor out did you disable any usless stuff? like double throttle,egr,aws and so on!! that was the first thing I did when the motor was out all that garbage was ripped out still have more crap to get rid of Ohwell another day another time good luck
-Ryan
-Ryan
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#9
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Well, you could reinstall the air pump to see if that corrects the probem. Maybe its just coincedental that it happend when you removed the pump.
Did you make sure you dont have any open nipples on the uim that your not using. They will make your car idle bad with lower than normal vacume. There is a couple in the back pretty deep down that are hard to see with the uim in place. Maybe you just need to cap a nipple
The pipe that you said is hanging, what is it attached to on the motor end? Its been so long since I pulled mine I dont remember exactly where everything went.
STEPHEN
Did you make sure you dont have any open nipples on the uim that your not using. They will make your car idle bad with lower than normal vacume. There is a couple in the back pretty deep down that are hard to see with the uim in place. Maybe you just need to cap a nipple
The pipe that you said is hanging, what is it attached to on the motor end? Its been so long since I pulled mine I dont remember exactly where everything went.
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; 05-15-02 at 10:01 AM.
#10
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I removed EGR, AWS, ACV, etc with block off plates. Yes I am sure there are no leaks, I just replaced eveything with a full gasket set I bought with new engine.
#11
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Are you still using your same old PFC map or did you try mine? You could try mine while just sitting there to see if it changes anything. That would help rule out a tunning issue on your map.
If your running mine or someone elses then I guess the PFC is ruled out.
I figured you used all new gaskets, I was wondering about any open nipples on the uim, especially the ones on the back side since they are hard to see. If you leave a nipple or two open it will cause low vacume and rough idle.
Its a bitch huh, my apex seal took out both my turbos!!!!
Looks like I'm upgrading to someting else.....to bad I dont have the money lol
STEPHEN
If your running mine or someone elses then I guess the PFC is ruled out.
I figured you used all new gaskets, I was wondering about any open nipples on the uim, especially the ones on the back side since they are hard to see. If you leave a nipple or two open it will cause low vacume and rough idle.
Its a bitch huh, my apex seal took out both my turbos!!!!
Looks like I'm upgrading to someting else.....to bad I dont have the money lol
STEPHEN
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yeah, all my grounds are good. I think I may have a new possibel solution. What about my coils. When I rev my engien up to say 3k, runs great, but there is a noticible miss, I have this miss all the time, it was there with old engine, and the new one(which has 15.5 miles). I tested all my coils, resistence, etc. all good. And yes this miss didn;t just arrive because I have rich idle, etc ******* with this ****, it has just been there all teh time. Less prominent when electrical load is on.
#14
Bigger and better things
check your plugwires.... they may suck or just be off ( stock is the best!!!) and the low vacuum could be a bad airfilter??? You didnt leave any rags in the engine did you ??
Goodluck
~Jonathan
Goodluck
~Jonathan
#16
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WTF WTF
My vacuum is only 12". also..
Oh shieet.. does that mean something is wrong??
I thought that was normal.
My Airpump is disconnected. but still..
Given that all the nipples, grounds and etc are all
OK.. and still have 12" Vacuum..
Is that a SIGN that APEX Seals are about to GO????
RYANNNNN HELP.. something isn't right...
My vacuum is only 12". also..
Oh shieet.. does that mean something is wrong??
I thought that was normal.
My Airpump is disconnected. but still..
Given that all the nipples, grounds and etc are all
OK.. and still have 12" Vacuum..
Is that a SIGN that APEX Seals are about to GO????
RYANNNNN HELP.. something isn't right...
#17
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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how does/did you car do in higher rpms say around 5K and up at WOT with fairly high boost? I would suspect if you had a coil/ignition problem it would definatly show itself at wot in the higher rpms when your really using the crap out of your igniton system.
On a side note, I switched from 9's all the way around to 10's and it made my car so much smoother it wasnt even funny!!!
What about your fuel filter? Did you change it? I dont think thats the problem but I remember we talked about it and you thought it might could use a change.
I also read that someones car was running like **** with a bad idle and all that from a bad alt and battery, kinda wierd but you might want to check it. That might make some sence since you said elec load affects it.
Damn, I'm still thinking man. I'll post anything I can dream up haha
STEPHEN
On a side note, I switched from 9's all the way around to 10's and it made my car so much smoother it wasnt even funny!!!
What about your fuel filter? Did you change it? I dont think thats the problem but I remember we talked about it and you thought it might could use a change.
I also read that someones car was running like **** with a bad idle and all that from a bad alt and battery, kinda wierd but you might want to check it. That might make some sence since you said elec load affects it.
Damn, I'm still thinking man. I'll post anything I can dream up haha
STEPHEN
#18
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
WTF WTF
My vacuum is only 12". also..
Oh shieet.. does that mean something is wrong??
I thought that was normal.
My Airpump is disconnected. but still..
Given that all the nipples, grounds and etc are all
OK.. and still have 12" Vacuum..
Is that a SIGN that APEX Seals are about to GO????
RYANNNNN HELP.. something isn't right...
WTF WTF
My vacuum is only 12". also..
Oh shieet.. does that mean something is wrong??
I thought that was normal.
My Airpump is disconnected. but still..
Given that all the nipples, grounds and etc are all
OK.. and still have 12" Vacuum..
Is that a SIGN that APEX Seals are about to GO????
RYANNNNN HELP.. something isn't right...
Do you have a big *** street port? If not I'd get a compression test just to make sure your ok. If you had a blown engine your vac would be around 8 but you could have a small crack or something, or maybe just wear from alot of miles.
STEPHEN
#19
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haven't changed fuel filtre yet, but I check it has 10k on it.
anyway, i am going to open up port air inlet, so that it will return to like 17. I hate this ****, I do notice that with o2 correction off it is much better.
Here is a question for you guys. my narraw range and full range TPS readings are .41 and .98 after warmup. I know the .98 is cool in every respoect. in the book it says between .1 and .7 for other (can;t rememebr wether narrow or full) and that from open to close it is .4 +. I am thinking mayeb I should drop it a bit.
12 vacuum is probably from your airpump like me, I had 12 thought it was bad, but drove it, when I hit 9, I new engine was shot.
Why 12 for us and perfect for others? seems like nobody knows. with airpump on and stock engien I was pulling 18", airpump off, but pipes unplugged 16-17. Plugged 12, now withnew engine and BOPs 11-12
anyway, i am going to open up port air inlet, so that it will return to like 17. I hate this ****, I do notice that with o2 correction off it is much better.
Here is a question for you guys. my narraw range and full range TPS readings are .41 and .98 after warmup. I know the .98 is cool in every respoect. in the book it says between .1 and .7 for other (can;t rememebr wether narrow or full) and that from open to close it is .4 +. I am thinking mayeb I should drop it a bit.
12 vacuum is probably from your airpump like me, I had 12 thought it was bad, but drove it, when I hit 9, I new engine was shot.
Why 12 for us and perfect for others? seems like nobody knows. with airpump on and stock engien I was pulling 18", airpump off, but pipes unplugged 16-17. Plugged 12, now withnew engine and BOPs 11-12
#20
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Originally posted by KZ1
Nobody goes from 11 to 18 vacuum after break-in.
Nobody goes from 11 to 18 vacuum after break-in.
#21
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16 wouldn't be bad, but I believe I ould get that now with airpump back on. I am goin gto just let port-air suck in air adn see what it gets back up to.
thanks a lot guys, I will let you know what happens.
RRR, that is amnazing, I didn't know that. I knew it took a while to get eveything sealed, etc, and vacuum woudl increase, but that is a substantial amount. I will let you know what happends to me.
thanks a lot guys, I will let you know what happens.
RRR, that is amnazing, I didn't know that. I knew it took a while to get eveything sealed, etc, and vacuum woudl increase, but that is a substantial amount. I will let you know what happends to me.
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