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From what I’m reading and what is apparently on Pettit Racing’s website 1oz to 1gal is the way to go. I would think my premix should be on the heavier side since I have my OMP deleted.
That would seem to be the equivalent to 587 ml/tank. Nearly 80% more than our local guidance for upper range for no OMP (360ml/tank).
Perhaps keep that in mind.
(Note: different makers TCW3 Two Cycle motor oil will smell different. Choose wisely.)
I’m curious to where you’ve found that because most of what I’ve found is 1 oz to 1 gallon. I’m not saying you’re wrong. I want to do what’s right and it does seem strong to me as well. Also do you have any recommendations on premix oil? Previous owner gave me this with the car and I just finished it. The local advance I went to had no selection for 2 stroke other than some brand I’d never heard of QuickSilver or something like that and car quest. How picky should I be?
In order to achieve the 360ml you suggest I would premix about .6 oz per gallon. From what I’ve read you should premix .5 to 1oz per gallon and on the higher end if you’re not running an OMP. I’d like to get deeper into this to ensure I am properly lubricating.
It is a running joke on our local forum the debate on what the proper amount of Premix to use..
Our local shop (Force Fed) is sort of the Petit Racing of Western Canada.
We drive them nuts repeatedly asking about premix.
Some folk do group buys of cases of Idemitsu.
Shell Nautilus is quite commonly available.
Wallmart has a home brand, which is usually cheapest.
A local paint shop might sell small wax paper cups with gradations that they use for paint mixing . Use once and throw away. Quite convenient.
Put the oil in before filling up. The incoming gas will then better mix with the oil .
Why premix if you have an OMP that is working?
Well a 25 year old OMP might decide to stop working and not tell you.
Also the injectors can get plugged over time.
My OMP is deleted but I like the idea of running an OMP to its own oil and not having to premix but I’m afraid of it failing and engine go bye bye, so I’d rather just keep the delete and premix.
found a random wire it separated from its plug to the fan switch, I put in a new switch so I didn’t have to worry about the plug I just connected it to the switch with regular wire connectors. When I found the wire it was shot, I had to peel back the harness wrap and it wasn’t a quick job, to get to the wire I had to take all my vac lines that I just put in, back out in 45F weather til around 5am. But we’re running now. I ordered a new radio because priorities. I need Bluetooth. I also ordered a new coolant level sensor because mine broke but I’m not getting any warning or anything and its not grounded that I can see. So I’m wondering if I even need it.
If your coolant is low you want to know sooner than later.
The wire often gets rubbed of f of the sensor. It very annoying. That and the O2 sensor wire.
well from what I understand the sensor works by grounding. So since mine isn’t plugged in I should have some kind of light or warning because it isn’t grounded. But I have nothing? I’m worried that I’ll buy this sensor and install it for nothing.
All I know is when the wire on the water level sensor rubbed off, the the light in the temperature gauge came on and a warning buzz sounded. We turned off in a panic and then scratched our heads what to do. However, we later learned the buzzer turns off after 15 seconds.
Maybe your previous guy disabled the warning buzzer? Rather than buy the new sensor ($100)?
All I know is when the wire on the water level sensor rubbed off, the the light in the temperature gauge came on and a warning buzz sounded. We turned off in a panic and then scratched our heads what to do. However, we later learned the buzzer turns off after 15 seconds.
Maybe your previous guy disabled the warning buzzer? Rather than buy the new sensor ($100)?
$100 sensor vs $5000 rebuild. You decide.
is there no light? I assumed a light would be on the dash I already ordered the sensor, I don’t mind buying it but I want it to be functioning
The above link is for prior generation. Warning light is a red dot on the FD.
When my buzzer went off, the mechanic dived into the ecu and tried to disconnect the buzzer pin. Luckily I found the info on the 15 second buzzer cut. But maybe your guy did something like my mechanic was attempting to do. Perhaps trace the circuit for the buzzer and see if it has been disconnected somewhere.
Last edited by Redbul; 12-26-20 at 11:29 PM.
Reason: added info.
The light is within the temperature gauge. Red dot, quarter inch.
oh I believe that light was on, I will have to see if I can reenable the buzzer. Because that little light, if it’s what I think it is, is too easy to miss in my opinion
Also I was able to order the sensor for just shy of $40 from autozone I got the one for the previous gens. I checked the thread sizes and they’re the same, they also look the identical, I believe all they do is check for ground so they should be the same minus the connector but I’m just gonna use some wire connectors because it’s just one wire. I did a little snooping around to verify and some people also say they’re the same.
I am not sure if I am understanding the link correctly, but it almost sounds like there is a random open two wire plug that you can plug in to override the alarm going off. Maybe yours has actually been plugged in.
I don’t think they have the same problem, I need to find out how to undo the buzzer delete. They have the buzzer going off. I’m hoping that the previous owners disabled the buzzer because the rad cap was leaking and not because a broken wire because I don’t want to dig around for more wires I just did that for the fan switch and peeling back the hardened wire wrap is a very time consuming careful procedure. I read some posts saying that the deletes are either to ground the wire in the engine bay that would go to the sensor. Or there’s some plug under the drivers side kick panel? Looking for more info on it hopefully with photos
Just went for a drive. When I turn the ignition on all the warning lights come on (at least briefly). A red dot appears above the H on the temperature gauge. Beside that it says "add coolant". I had not noticed that before.
Just went for a drive. When I turn the ignition on all the warning lights come on (at least briefly). A red dot appears above the H on the temperature gauge. Beside that it says "add coolant". I had not noticed that before.
Does your red light flash?
it comes on when the lights come on before I crank the engine but after that it’s off which would mean it thinks it’s grounded, it doesn’t come on when I’m driving either I would check while I was driving and nothing when I looked in the engine bay it didn’t seem to be grounded anywhere. So I’m at a loss. The sensor comes in around the forth, tomorrow I’m gonna inspect my brakes and try to bleed them and see if I can get lucky and not need a master cylinder rebuild kit. If I do need it I’ll order that next.
So while I was driving home from work I took the long way and suddenly the add coolant light came on! Finally! But not only that! My odometer started working at the same time! I’m thinking loose connection or bad ground somewhere? I can’t seem to find anything on an intermittent odometer. Should I make a new post for this?
Did you check your coolant level. Best do that quickly.
No need for a new thread. Lots of odometers related threads already.
Odometers crap out. Its common.
There are a number of dash grounds including for the instrument panel.
Often they get disconnected.
See if anything is hanging down under the dash.
There is a guy in Quebec with jigs set up for testing instrument panels.
A complete panel refurbishment is not that expensive.
He also has a neat odometer replacement (recommended).
My coolant level is fine, remember I don’t have a sensor right now, it comes in the 4th. I don’t want to do a new odo because I don’t want to change my mileage. I planned to open my cluster anyways to do a light change either white or blue because I don’t like the orange. So many that will happen sooner than later. From every odo problem thread I can find on the 3rd gen it’s the capacitors. But mine shouldn’t be the capacitors if it’s intermittent. I also found a thread discussing a loose connector on a gen 2 but the loose connector also put out their Spedo, my spedo has always worked. (Other than 0-5mph seems to just show 0mph)
12-24-20, 11:48 AM
Apples to Oranges
