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I just looked at six examples I have of that pipe section. Four had the cap where it is in your picture, one did not have a cap, and a sixth did not have that angle bit of pipe at all (?). Don't know what conclusion to recommend for your case.
Originally Posted by LegoMontego
Which one of these two lines that I have my finger on do you guys have capped? I’m trying to find out which I plug the dark blue line from the diagram into.
Rats nest finally finished. New spark plugs and wires are in. IM openings that were left open are capped. The pressure tank is going to go back where it’s supposed to be infront of the UIM. Cleaned the ground that was next to the plugs while I was at the plugs. I’m putting the turbo manifold back together and putting it in. I’m limited now to what I can do above the car. (I can’t be under the car if I’m alone in the shop for insurance reasons)
Found this guy hiding under the brake booster. From what I can see they did an oil metering pump delete? But they left it plugged in? Is this normal? Should I put it back?
It may have been malfunctioning, so the uninstalled it.
Bit of work to reinstall, particularly the oil lines to the oil injectors.
Many people delete the pump and rely on "premixing".
Petite site should have guidance for premixing. They may still sell premix. Otherwise use two cycle engine oil rated TCW3 (Snowmobile/powerboat engine oil).
Run the tests again (smoke, coolant system pressure, compression, alternator output, codes).
If you drained the coolant, you need to be careful refilling. FD are prone to trapped air.
Did the previous owner say they removed the OMP? That is it in your hand. If it has been you HAVE to premix, other wise the engine will chew itself apart.
Read up on that for sure.
Someone really did some half-*** work, there's no sense in removing and messing with all that stuff with a stock ECU.
Problem with reconstituting a sequential set up in a way the original ecu will like is that the ecu is 25 years old and just may be getting crochety in its old age.
Good job in catching up to the car's unique nature so quickly.
Did the previous owner say they removed the OMP? That is it in your hand. If it has been you HAVE to premix, other wise the engine will chew itself apart.
Read up on that for sure.
Someone really did some half-*** work, there's no sense in removing and messing with all that stuff with a stock ECU.
Dale
what you said sounded familiar so I went back and this is a convo with the seller
Problem with reconstituting a sequential set up in a way the original ecu will like is that the ecu is 25 years old and just may be getting crochety in its old age.
Good job in catching up to the car's unique nature so quickly.
Hope she fires up nice for you.
I’m planning to get the power fc when it runs good. Everyone says don’t do upgrades til I’m fixed.
It may have been malfunctioning, so the uninstalled it.
Bit of work to reinstall, particularly the oil lines to the oil injectors.
Many people delete the pump and rely on "premixing".
Petite site should have guidance for premixing. They may still sell premix. Otherwise use two cycle engine oil rated TCW3 (Snowmobile/powerboat engine oil).
Run the tests again (smoke, coolant system pressure, compression, alternator output, codes).
If you drained the coolant, you need to be careful refilling. FD are prone to trapped air.
I didn’t flush the coolant yet, I’m picking up a thermostat so I can do it now with the coolant. How should I do it without trapping air? Also Pettit told me dark green. Any recommendations?
Rat box goes in place of the rats nest frame. Harness was still intact and plugged in in a jiffy. Very satisfying. 6MM and 3 mm vacuum hoses attached. 3mm hose is the braided variety mentioned many posts ago. Finally found a picture.
Larger hose in the coolant return hose from the throttle body to the coolant filler neck. Worm clamp very quickly chewed through the hose causing a coolant leak.
Note: For Series 8 (and possible Series 7) the order of placement of the coils is different. This could lead to hooking up the coils to the plugs in the wrong order if the USDM FSM is used as a reference. This can prove a disaster .for the motor. Best not leave the plug replacement to the local shop. Even an experienced shop can make that error, because there still are not that many S7 & S8 around.
(Risky for the driver as well, as, when coming back from the shop, I stalled the car on a railway siding as a shunting locomotive crawled toward me.)
Last edited by Redbul; 12-23-20 at 04:46 AM.
Reason: added info.
Rat box goes in place of the rats nest frame. Harness was still intact and plugged in in a jiffy. Very satisfying. 6MM and 3 mm vacuum hoses attached. 3mm hose is the braided variety mentioned many posts ago. Finally found a picture.
Larger hose in the coolant return hose from the throttle body to the coolant filler neck. Worm clamp very quickly chewed through the hose causing a coolant leak.
Note: For Series 8 (and possible Series 7) the order of placement of the coils is different. This could lead to hooking up the coils to the plugs in the wrong order if the USDM FSM is used as a reference. This can prove a disaster .for the motor. Best not leave the plug replacement to the local shop. Even an experienced shop can make that error, because there still are not that many S7 & S8 around.
(Risky for the driver as well, as, when coming back from the shop, I stalled the car on a railway siding as a shunting locomotive crawled toward me.)
I can put the rats box in my 93 in place of my rats nest?
All back together and I’m in the process of the flush. I got the prestone super cleaner and I’m leaving it in for a couple days because my system was gross. My radiator cap is leaking, I’m picking one up ASAP. I’m also planning to get an air separator to replace the second radiator fill neck that’s plastic, as Pettit recommended. After redoing the vac lines the turbo sounds much nicer. Im going to order a catch can for my oil fill neck to delete the pcv. Or at least disconnect it from the IM. Now that I can drive it I’ll be taking it to Pettit to have the boost lowered to 6psi and have an experts eyes take a look. Still no brakes I’m going to pick up a brake master cylinder rebuild kit ASAP as well.
I got gas before driving home and after I filled premium with premix 1:1 maybe a tiny bit more premix. Car didn’t want to stay on at idle. I drove it and then it idled fine. Fuel filter? Fuel pump? Thoughts?
1. Ecu may still be hunting for disconnected components
2. TPS (Throttle position sensor) may be out of spec or no longer working
3. Now that it is running, how about doing the codes?
4. You got a new O2 sensor, right?
With OMP 180 ml per tank
Without OMP: 360 ml per tank
Tank = about 75 litres.
previous owner said 1:1, petite didn’t object when I told them but I didn’t ask. I don’t have OMP. I have an old one that’s bad installed where it is but it’s not plugged in, I have a new one in the engine bay plugged in to trick the ecu.
1. Ecu may still be hunting for disconnected components
2. TPS (Throttle position sensor) may be out of spec or no longer working
3. Now that it is running, how about doing the codes?
4. You got a new O2 sensor, right?
I didn’t get a new O2, I forgot. I’ll get that soon. I’ll run the codes soon I don’t want to run the car much until I get a rad cap. So unless Pettit is open tomorrow, or advance has a cap it won’t happen until after Christmas
12-20-20, 07:51 PM
