Ok, so after so many headaches and a new motor, I finally got it running. I started it the other day, and let it run for awhile to clean the crap out of it. I realized after stepping on the gas, the car will rev to about 4k then just die out, not stall, but die. I checked the car and noticed that the coolant temp sensor on on the neck had been cut somehow. I think this is the problem, because it is causing the car to run super rich. I also noticed that there is not pressure release on the radiator cap. This normal? Help me out
Thanks
Mike

 

Yes, losing the temp sensor will cause engine problems. It's fairly well documented in the FSM. Do you have a stock ECU? It should have been sending you codes.

As far as the pressure release cap, that should be located on the AST. The filler neck cap has no release. If you have removed the AST then you need to replace the filler neck (not just the cap, but the whole top neck assembly) with the neck assembly from a 2nd gen RX-7 This will enable to you mount a pressure release cap and plumb the overflow hose to the coolant reservoir.

-b

 

did you try to reset the ecu by unplugging battery and stepping on brakes for a while?

 

Ok, so I fixed th4e sensor, and the car doesn't seem to be running rich, it is quite lumpy at idle, but that most likely has to do with the port and straight exhaust. Do these cars register boost on a guage at idle or no? My vacuum is around 15-19 lbs, and steady.

 

Another thing is that my damn coolant boils in like 10 minutes of just idling, and the add coolant light comes on and beeps. The only thing I can think of now is the thermostat is bad, or of course the stock radiator, which is going to be pitched this week in place of a koyo. Any ideas? Thanks
Mike

 

The car won't have boost while idling. It should read in the vacuum which will vary per car based on idle rpm, port sizes, etc.. If you are between 15-19, that's fine.

I'm assuming this is a new engine install? If so, keep burping the coolant system. When you take the car out, drive with the heater on for a little while (yea, it's summer, but...).

 

OK, I have a new Koyo on order, and have replaced many of the broken sensors on the motor I have found. ECT, and some others. The problem is that the car will rev to around 5 grand smoothly, then kind of break up and backfire. I think it has most everything to do with the ECT sensor being messed up. The motor still thinks it is in cold start but the coolant is boiling. I'll keep ya posted.

 

Have you tried a new thermastat? And when bleeding air from the engine take the 8mm id hose at the rear of the throllte body Off allow it to fall down a couple of inches and then pour in your coolant when the fluid runs out of the hose then re connect it. This allows the air to be pushed out , Also do not allow it to run more than about 15 minutes and allow for it to cool down complete. then top off the coolant and you may have to do it 1 more time it should be full and no more air, unless you have a leak somewhere.the running problem is hard for anyone to tell you exactly what is the problem with out a Quaified person to actaully touch your Car //Louis// Hope you find it soon rotarys don`t like overheating

 

Hey everyone, I'm back. I'm having some problems with the motor. I just got it back from KD Rotary and the thing ran like a raped ape...for one day. Now the motor will only pull 10inHg at idle and when I shut it off you can hear the ISC motor/solenoid going nuts. I wanna fix it myself without having to take it back to KD and pay through the nose. Any ideas? Thanks