Few questions about my build. Need ECU guru help!
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Few questions about my build. Need ECU guru help!
Car: 1992 JDM FD3S Type R (dual coolers/sport package)
Hey guys,
So the engine/tranny/driveshaft/PPF/rad/Airbox/IC/Ducts are all out of my car right now.
The AC is also completely removed (engine bay and dash).
I am planning on doing a custom V mount, nothing too crazy, just a modified Koyo and a 21x6x2.75 IC core. I want to make custom ducting to the radiators and a nice shroud after the two radiators, hopefully fitting a 14" electric fan.
While i was taking things apart and out i began to ask myself a few questions.
1. My car is on jack stands and i need to push it outside to clean the bay and stuff. Is my Diff OK just hanging there??
2. What can be done about the powersteering lines that run in and around the radiator?? Seems to me as if they are being cooled. Is this really necesary?
3. The stock hard Dual oil cooler lines take up more room than they really should. Expecially the line that runs from the left to the right cooler. What fittings/lines can be used to reroute them?
4. When i was taking out my engine harness through the firewall, i nodiced that someone had spliced two ECU wires together and disconnected the other one...There was also a second wiring job done on a single yellow plug on the 'dash' harness.. I am thinking that perhaps this is an attempt at removing the governor, but it seems like a lot of wiring to acheive this.
In the first picture here you can see that there is a solid black/red dotted wire running from a beigish pink wire on the 'dash' harness to the brown/black wire with silver dots on the engine harness. Note: ECU has being removed obviously.
Here is a close up of the Engine harness splice.
Here is a close up of the 'dash' harness splice.
Here is the other solid black/dotted red wire that is on one of the 'dash' harness. The wire is plugged into one of the top terminals then runs down and plugs into a terminal on the lower row on the same plug
Here is a solid green wire on the 'dash' harness that has being removed from the yellow plug. Here is a close up.
Here is a japanese fellow i found hiding in my engine bay during engine removal.... ohh hehe
Thanks a LOT guys,
=Ben
Hey guys,
So the engine/tranny/driveshaft/PPF/rad/Airbox/IC/Ducts are all out of my car right now.
The AC is also completely removed (engine bay and dash).
I am planning on doing a custom V mount, nothing too crazy, just a modified Koyo and a 21x6x2.75 IC core. I want to make custom ducting to the radiators and a nice shroud after the two radiators, hopefully fitting a 14" electric fan.
While i was taking things apart and out i began to ask myself a few questions.
1. My car is on jack stands and i need to push it outside to clean the bay and stuff. Is my Diff OK just hanging there??
2. What can be done about the powersteering lines that run in and around the radiator?? Seems to me as if they are being cooled. Is this really necesary?
3. The stock hard Dual oil cooler lines take up more room than they really should. Expecially the line that runs from the left to the right cooler. What fittings/lines can be used to reroute them?
4. When i was taking out my engine harness through the firewall, i nodiced that someone had spliced two ECU wires together and disconnected the other one...There was also a second wiring job done on a single yellow plug on the 'dash' harness.. I am thinking that perhaps this is an attempt at removing the governor, but it seems like a lot of wiring to acheive this.
In the first picture here you can see that there is a solid black/red dotted wire running from a beigish pink wire on the 'dash' harness to the brown/black wire with silver dots on the engine harness. Note: ECU has being removed obviously.
Here is a close up of the Engine harness splice.
Here is a close up of the 'dash' harness splice.
Here is the other solid black/dotted red wire that is on one of the 'dash' harness. The wire is plugged into one of the top terminals then runs down and plugs into a terminal on the lower row on the same plug
Here is a solid green wire on the 'dash' harness that has being removed from the yellow plug. Here is a close up.
Here is a japanese fellow i found hiding in my engine bay during engine removal.... ohh hehe
Thanks a LOT guys,
=Ben
#2
1. did you disconnect the scatter shield?
if so than yes the diff should be fine. if not you may want to get a rope or piece of string and tie it up so it doesn't drag the scatter shield.
2. no. remove the rubber hose and hard pipe that runs up front and where it gets to the second rubber hose just bend the hard pipe up carefully and reattach the rubber hose to the reservoir.
3.im not sure
4.im not sure
hope i could help even thou it wasnt much.
if so than yes the diff should be fine. if not you may want to get a rope or piece of string and tie it up so it doesn't drag the scatter shield.
2. no. remove the rubber hose and hard pipe that runs up front and where it gets to the second rubber hose just bend the hard pipe up carefully and reattach the rubber hose to the reservoir.
3.im not sure
4.im not sure
hope i could help even thou it wasnt much.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
1. did you disconnect the scatter shield?
if so than yes the diff should be fine. if not you may want to get a rope or piece of string and tie it up so it doesn't drag the scatter shield.
2. no. remove the rubber hose and hard pipe that runs up front and where it gets to the second rubber hose just bend the hard pipe up carefully and reattach the rubber hose to the reservoir.
3.im not sure
4.im not sure
hope i could help even thou it wasnt much.
if so than yes the diff should be fine. if not you may want to get a rope or piece of string and tie it up so it doesn't drag the scatter shield.
2. no. remove the rubber hose and hard pipe that runs up front and where it gets to the second rubber hose just bend the hard pipe up carefully and reattach the rubber hose to the reservoir.
3.im not sure
4.im not sure
hope i could help even thou it wasnt much.
1. Well all of the underbody sheild are removed if that is what you are talking about. The rear crossmember brace thing is also removed, and the two small braces with circular holes drilled in them are also removed.
2. So NO cooling is needed for the PS? SWEEEEET!
Thanks,
Ben
#4
Rotary Enthusiast
The larger plug is plug number 4 and the pin is D (BR/B wire), it is a sensor ground. As for the other end, the lavender wire (plug 1 pin U) is the input for the fuel temp sensor. The wire effectively grounded out the fuel temp reading.
The hanging green wire from the same plug (plug 1 pin S) is the stop light switch, your stop lights are probably not turning on when you step on the brakes.
The hanging green wire from the same plug (plug 1 pin S) is the stop light switch, your stop lights are probably not turning on when you step on the brakes.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The larger plug is plug number 4 and the pin is D (BR/B wire), it is a sensor ground. As for the other end, the lavender wire (plug 1 pin U) is the input for the fuel temp sensor. The wire effectively grounded out the fuel temp reading.
The hanging green wire from the same plug (plug 1 pin S) is the stop light switch, your stop lights are probably not turning on when you step on the brakes.
The hanging green wire from the same plug (plug 1 pin S) is the stop light switch, your stop lights are probably not turning on when you step on the brakes.
Well my brake lights work fine, and the car runs perfectly... no electrical problems.
Remember this is a RHD JDM FD, maybe this make a differance? As far as i have seen the car is built the exact same except the differances have only being inverted.
So can i take my car off jack stands? or do i need to brace up the diff??
=Ben
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#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I hear ya...
The spliced with can easily be removed, however i do not know what terminal the green with has to go in.
I really hope that someone out there has a few ideas for me...
=Ben
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