When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey Guys I tried looking through the threads to see if i found something similar but no luck. So after removing my subframe bolts in order to have more clearance to remove my oil pan due to it leaking, i noticed that the hole was stripped since the bolt wouldn't go back in no matter what. What would you guys suggest i do to fix this? Everything else is on thigh and as it should, I don't want to drive the car like that. Plus when i was driving it home i noticed that when ever i would go over a pump or a pot hole the (4W ABS) light would come on. Im pretty sure it's due to the missing bolt. Help idk what to do
Pull the subframe and inspect the threads, see if they can be fixed or re-threaded. I think that's a welded captive nut on the body. That's not going to be fun to fix.
I bought a helicoil kit. But, before I used it I inspected the bolt. 90% of the issue was the bolt itself. I could be remembering incorrectly, but think these are green yield bolts that are intended to be replaced. I chased the threads in the hole with a tap, new bolt torqued down properly with no issues since.
Chase the threads and see if a brand new OEM bolt will torque down to spec before doing anything else.
Yes, that's the bolt! And awesome, thank you for the input. I've been super worried about this. But I'll be trying this next! So that's the Tap size you used for it? M12X1.25?
And if your threads really are messed up, doing the helicoil is easy and also strong, used in lots of industries including aviation when threads are needed in aluminum components (aluminum threads don't last in high stress environments unless it's a certain type of aluminum, so helicoil are used
You can also get things to measure bolts with. Harbor Freight has one that's a disc, you put the bolt through a hole to find the diameter (in this case 12mm) and then match up the threads on the side (in this case 1.25).
+1 for Helicoil. I don't doubt that it'll hold. I've redone most bolt holes in the aluminum head of my protege with them, and they hold up great. Never had one fail. On my FD, a helicoil insert is holding in one of the exhaust manifold studs
I will say a heli coil will work but you're better off with the original threads if they can be repaired in some manner. It is possible to screw up a Heli coil install and be in a huge mess.
Agree. In my case cleaning the threads and using a new bolt worked great. Green torque to yield bolts are only supposed to be used once (although many do reuse them with no issue on the suspension).
Yes, that's the bolt! And awesome, thank you for the input. I've been super worried about this. But I'll be trying this next! So that's the Tap size you used for it? M12X1.25?
take the bolt or nut to Home Depot or Lowes; they usually have a board in the Fastener area for both metric and SAE threaded studs and holes with the thread size called out for figuring out which one it threads on or into.
.
Basic mechanic info- dont be offended if its common sense to you.
Whenever you are installing parts with multiple fasteners holding them together- put each bolt in loosely 1st so things can move around and you arent causing a misalignment issue.
I see beginners put a bolt or two in and start tightening them right away and the last bolt never wants to go in.
01-16-22, 11:15 AM
FD3S Front Subframe bolt hole stripped!
