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FD won't start

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Old 01-11-06, 03:11 PM
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FD won't start

ok it will crank fine but won't fire. It has been sitting in my garage for about 2-3 months now, but i have started it almost every week just to let it run. When i started it last weekend it started then died when i took my foot off the gas pedal. and then it wouldnt start at all. It would kick A VERY VERY LITTLE if i gave it some gas but not nearly enough to do anything. So i let it sit. Came back outside, and it ran fine. Next day i try to start it, same thing. I have to hold my foot on the gas and this time it did NOT sound like normal, almost as if the timing was way off or it was only firing on one cylinder. Wierder still, it wouldn't go above 4k rpms even with the pedal floored.

i have no idea and this is pissing me off. I noticed my battery was dead everytime i tried starting it about a couple weeks ago when it ran FINE. The battery was new and i didn't understand it. wild guess here, maybe the fuel pump was stuck on which was drawing the current from the battery even with the car off, and now it fried and now won't pump any fuel to my motor?? is there any way to test this?

HELP
Old 01-11-06, 03:20 PM
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connect the GND and F/P connectors in the diagnosis box with your key turned to ACC.
if the fuel pump is fine then you'll hear it fire up.
it is possible you have a clogged injector or fouled spark plug... have you pulled those to do the deflood with ATF and checked them?

if your engine has a problem with revs... my recommendation wouldn't be to floor it... as a side note.

Last edited by weetbix13; 01-11-06 at 03:21 PM. Reason: adding to this...
Old 01-11-06, 03:26 PM
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check ur spark plugs...
Old 01-11-06, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Rufio
check ur spark plugs...
My guess too, you probably flooded the engine...
Old 01-11-06, 06:08 PM
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ok ill try firing up the fuel pump in a little bit...see if that works.

but i went away on vacation for a week and even when i got back it still didn't start, if it was flooded, it should have evaporated by now i would assume. reason i say this is not because im too lazy to look at the plugs its just that i don't have a jack here with me right now

thanks for the replies
Old 01-11-06, 06:45 PM
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ok connected the GND to F/P and turned the key to ACC and nothing... turned it to ON and i heard the fuel pump, or something atleast.. sounds like its near the engine though (thought the fuel pump was near the back of the car). Would the fact that the pump didn't turn on at ACC but turned on at the ON position have anything to do with it?
Old 01-11-06, 07:04 PM
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ahhhh, maybe i gave bad advice... yeah, it should fire up at 'on' and 'start' - the sound would sound like it is coming from the engine bay and sounds like a phone on vibrate or something.

spark plugs can be reached from the top easy... just remove the elbow and you'll be able to go right to them. your problem is SO likely to be fuel lines or spark plugs and you can check them BOTH at ONCE. if laziness is the problem, you should do this to knock out two possibilities!

flooding? i wouldn't know... never left it that long.

Last edited by weetbix13; 01-11-06 at 07:07 PM.
Old 01-11-06, 08:47 PM
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ok pulled the plugs they look pretty bad. all are black and some are fouled. going to get new ones right now. the trailings were fouled worse than the leading, i know most people run the trailings all around (the 7s i think). so should i go with the stock setup so they wont foul out again (as the leadings produce a hotter spark, i belive)?

also what would be the cause of my car fouling out like this? ive never seen an engine (especially a fuel injected one) not run because of fouled plugs and then run fine next minute without doing anything to it
Old 01-11-06, 09:03 PM
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hey mate, stick with the stock setting (7 for leading, 9 for trailing).
your other option is to run 9's on both leading and trailing, but this should only follow a couple of mods and isn't even really nessecary then (some may disagree).

remember to smell/feel the plugs for fuel... if they don't smell of fuel then they likely aren't your problem (then you'd need to check fuel lines/injectors as the only other easy options).
don't be shy of a wire brush and remember, if they are stock plugs then the blue lined one goes on TOP.

NGK Spark Plug part numbers:
LEADING: BUR7EQP (or BUR7EQ if you don't want platinum)
TRAILING: BUR9EQP (or BUR9EQ if you don't want platinum)
Old 01-11-06, 09:12 PM
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to answer your question on fouling affecting the drive.
every other type of car has 4 combustion spark plugs vs. the 13b's 2. i'm not sure or scientific, but i think it is safe to say that losing 50% of your combustion spark is far more noticable than losing 25% (or less).
Old 01-11-06, 09:18 PM
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hey weetbix ive got a dp,mp,catback, pettit ecu and intakes for mods...

the trailings smell of fuel but the leadings are not bad at all
Old 01-11-06, 09:24 PM
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smelling of fuel is good... would mean you have fuel in the system.
if trailings are smelling of fuel the rotation of the rotors would 99% likely mean that was going into the combustion cycle too... your leading sparks are likely toast.
maybe also go check the spark plugs against the block to triple check the the coils/connections are doing thier job.

put all 9's in it with those mod's i'd say... i'm close to stock but my searching for spark plugs a while back gives me the info if i ever need it!
Old 01-11-06, 09:38 PM
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Seems obvious, but have you checked your throttle cable slack or if it's even on right? Might explain you topping out at 4k on the tach.

Fouled plugs could also be from running really rich. How old are the plugs and do you have any info on the engine age? Running a stock ECU with lots of mods?

And it's probably not firing on only one "cylinder" if it's a 13 B .
Old 01-11-06, 09:40 PM
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Oh, NM on the ECU question; I see it's a Pettit
Old 01-11-06, 09:42 PM
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If you are planning to let it sit like that then disconnect the battery as well and reconnect when you are going to warm it up
Old 01-11-06, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by weetbix13
if trailings are smelling of fuel the rotation of the rotors would 99% likely mean that was going into the combustion cycle too... your leading sparks are likely toast.

sorry, can u explain what you mean here i dont quite follow..

also if i was to run 9's all around wouldn't that mean the plugs would foul out easier since it is a colder plug? i don't really see the advantage to this besides a small difference in engine temp

anyways i cleaned the plugs really good, put them back in, engine kicked a little, sounded like it was only running on one rotor or something, gave it gas, it whistled and stalled out. took out the plugs again and this time their wet but dont smell like gas so i guess theres water in there. put some dry gas in the tank, cleaned the plugs again and put them back in. car started OK, better then before.. so i will keep doing this... i feel like im working on my jetski

too bad i snapped one of the studs from the elbow to manifold, now i gotta go find a stud that will fit that! dammit

Last edited by af908; 01-11-06 at 11:27 PM.
Old 01-12-06, 03:38 PM
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to explain what i meant... since the fuel is injected in the intake cycle... then goes through the the combustion cycle to the ehaust cycle... blah blah blah... basically the fuel in the chamber has to pass over the trailings before it gets to the leading plugs... assuming the trailing plugs are in, the fuel has nowhere to go.

SO; fuel would have to be in the combustion chamber, but not being ignited. hence suspecting the leading plugs.

good luck, wish i had a jetski!!
Old 01-13-06, 12:10 AM
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hey weetbix thanks for all the help finally got her runnin again

i cleaned and recleaned the spark plugs over and over and kept putting them in an taking them back out... finally i just bought new ones.... and it fired right up!!!!!! i love simple solutions
Old 01-13-06, 02:06 AM
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good work, happy to help!
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