The 3 FDs I've seen burn down all had Greddy Fmics without the battery relocated.

 

I've seen a bunch of cars like that too. Its scary. I prefer to remove the terminal completely and use a ring terminal to the main fuse so the cover slides over and protects it.

 

is there any way to get the starter to sound like this?

 

Yep, buy a 4-rotor .

+1 on the battery terminal, this is something you really need to be careful with. That's unfused power!

It's a shame too how easy it is to just unbolt the positive terminal and bolt on a cable. It's just people cutting corners and trying to hurry up a job. Take the time and do it RIGHT.

Back on topic, is the upgraded starter any lighter or heavier than stock?

Dale

 

^ Both starters are built the same. All the weight comes from the motor itself and not really the front and rear parts. I didn't weigh mine but the motor body is the same diameter. It's just a little bit longer so it creates a bigger electrical field. This makes it stronger when energized. It should be slightly heavier but not much.

 

The 2.0 kw motor is longer, making it heavier.

Stock 1.2 kw 7lb 10.5 oz.
Upgraded 2.0 kw 8lb 5 oz.

 

Thanks, Banzai! Not much of a weight increase there, like half a pound.

I've wondered if it would be possible to save weight on the starter or alternator. Don't know if it would be worth the effort if the weight savings aren't that dramatic.

I'm tempted to do a 2kw starter on my car but my starter works just dandy .

Dale

 

man that sounds good... again again!

your car seems like the engine catches before the ECU has really figured everything out, which is something the Rx8 with the fast starter does too

 

Lo and behold, I deliver as promised!
One RX8 N3R3 starter machined to fit an FD:
(Machine work done by my brother)

 

We are pleased to announce our that our Version 2 FD High Torque Starters have been shipping, starting last week. In the newest version the solid bushing has been upgraded to a sealed roller bearing for even better performance and durability.



Installed

 

Yea she bust off really fast on cold starts. Not so much still when fully warmed up. My engine for whatever reason still lugs a little bit on warm starts even with the upgraded starter and recently installed IGN-1A coils. I think I need to test my battery as it may be loosing cranking amps as it heats up from being charged by the alternator.

 

Was tuning my crank map earlier today.
After 2-3 cranks, it will pop my 150amp breaker.
With the old FD starter I might have gotten an extra crank.

Anyone upgrade their breaker to 200amp? as stated by the previous assumption that the rx8 starter will pull 160-180 amps?

 

With my battery in the bin, I go to starter and then to the fuse box pre fuse.

 

My battery is in the bin, and as follows: Battery -> Breaker -> to stock battery terminal/location.

If I understand you right, yours goes to: Battery -> Starter -> stock harness (which means the stock 120 amp fuse is your "breaker?")

 

We always install a circuit breaker or inline fuse at the battery. If the insulation on the cable run directly to the starter ever gets damaged it will disconnect the battery and prevent a car fire. The factory 120A fuse may pop, but that will not stop the battery cable from continuing to ground out to the chassis.

On our 20B we have a 250A inline fuse on the positive and a kill switch on the negative.

 

I forgot to menchion breaker off the battery. The fuse only protects post circuits. If I pull the fuse, the starter will still be hot as it's direct. Breaker protects from battery to fuse.

 

Can you post a pic by chance?

 

Just finished transferring the bits of my rx8 starter to the rx7 nose.
Turned over and sounded fast. Didn't start it yet, intake not yet reinstalled,

 

Just to be certain about this mod, all I would need to do is remove the aluminum gear housing (nose) from my FD starter and install it on the RX8 starter motor?

 

Yes.

 

Bringing this back I just did the upgrade and now my care turns over slow. I tried jumping it and I got it to turn over quick a couple times but didn't start. I had a 500ca battery and just upgraded to 685ca with the same results. Anyone lee ran across this issue?

Another note I believe that my ignition switch is going out. Not sure if this would be a contributing factor. In order for me to get the car to crank I have to quickly turn the key to run and it will crank for a second then just stop. If I do this a few times I was able to get the car to start before the started upgrade. That is the reason that I wanted to do this upgrade to give it a little more help in starting.

 

Where did you buy the "new" starter?

 

Also, you should be troubleshooting the main cause of the intermittent starter operation, like you said, ignition switch, clutch switch, security interlock, starter relay etc.
Since the operation is dependent on how you turn the key, I would start there.

 

I bout a remanufactured starter from carid
It was working fine when I first got the car running. Then one day I went to start her up and the issue began with no warning. I thought that it might have been the key because it was splitting so I had a new one made. That didn't fix anything so I went to have the starting system checked at AutoZone and was told that everything checked out. My next concern was with the Clifford alarm because it is so old, I call myself disconnecting it but come to find out yesterday it still is working. I don't see how that would affect it to a point where I would have to quickly turn the key to get it to can and then it would just stop. As far as the clutch switch, I don't even have to push the clutch in because of the Clifford alarm. It has the remote start feature so that is bypassed. Only thing that I hadn't checked was the starter relay which will be the next thing.

 

So let me get this straight. When you turn the key to start the car, you have to turn it very quickly in a fast motion or it will not crank? And then, while you are holding the key and it's cranking, it will stop cranking by itself?