fd rebuild? howmuch$
fd rebuild? howmuch$
I'm thinking of possiblly buying a fd with the intent of having the motor rebuilt. Could you guys give me some ballpark figures on approximatly how much a stock rebuild and install will cost? Im located in south jersey.
Last edited by RxSeven1; Sep 11, 2003 at 08:41 PM.
Just do a search here in the forum for:
"rebuild reman"
That should bring up some results with varying prices. Basically it all depends on the rebuild for a majority of the cost. Porting, oil mods, etc all cost money. Also, with a rebuild it also depends on how much is damaged as to other costs for new parts.
If the car blew an apex seal, it could have also damaged the turbos requiring a rebuild for those as well.
Reman cost around $2000.
Most rebuilds will range from $3000-4000 range.
R&R (remove & reinstall) cost will vary depending on the shop's hourly rate, but you can expect around $1200 for that.
Chances are there will be other things that need to be done (new hoses, couplers, injector cleaning, etc) which will also add up in the costs.
"rebuild reman"
That should bring up some results with varying prices. Basically it all depends on the rebuild for a majority of the cost. Porting, oil mods, etc all cost money. Also, with a rebuild it also depends on how much is damaged as to other costs for new parts.
If the car blew an apex seal, it could have also damaged the turbos requiring a rebuild for those as well.
Reman cost around $2000.
Most rebuilds will range from $3000-4000 range.
R&R (remove & reinstall) cost will vary depending on the shop's hourly rate, but you can expect around $1200 for that.
Chances are there will be other things that need to be done (new hoses, couplers, injector cleaning, etc) which will also add up in the costs.
For my rebuild at Rotary Power, the total was ~$5600. That included the rebuilding of both the turbos, the motor (w/ 3mm apex seals), injectors, clutch and a whole lot of other required things such as a thermostat, plug wires, pulsation dampener, spark plugs, etc. All in all, it wasn't really that bad a of a price.
You can get a Mazda Reman from Malloy Mazda, VA ask for Ray Crowe for $2195 shipped(You might get a good one) it' cost you anywhere between $1400-1800 for a good rotary shop to do the swap. You'll also need around $500 worth of stuff like gaskets, hoses & Fuel Pulsation Dampener, etc. It would also be a good idea to install a new clutch while the motor is out $500. I'd recommend getting a lightened flywheel, $350(it's worth it). Well, since you are getting a new motor, you might as well get the motor ported to free up some hp.(15-20hp) It goes on and on.
~ Pineappleracing.com has a great reputation. That's why I went with them. I hope my motor lives up to their reputation.
~ Pineappleracing.com has a great reputation. That's why I went with them. I hope my motor lives up to their reputation.
Last edited by jpandes; Sep 11, 2003 at 10:39 PM.
if you go to a shop to have the engine rebuilt make sure you are really careful because nobody knows what they are doing and if they do they can rip you off easier. Stick with the big named companies. Pineapple and Pettit pretty much
off topic again
jpandes nice car I just looked at the page
the wheels are so original and classy
I read through the mods your car should be killer fast right now! I would suggest a midpipe with a retune of the pfc and a ball and spring valve for the wastegate actuator at least to control boost. The home depot controllers suck. You will notice the boost fly to what you set it to (like you had set it for a much higher boost)and stop on a dime with the manual ball and spring valve.
off topic again
jpandes nice car I just looked at the page
the wheels are so original and classy
I read through the mods your car should be killer fast right now! I would suggest a midpipe with a retune of the pfc and a ball and spring valve for the wastegate actuator at least to control boost. The home depot controllers suck. You will notice the boost fly to what you set it to (like you had set it for a much higher boost)and stop on a dime with the manual ball and spring valve.
Trending Topics
Hey RXSeven7,I have a shop (JPR imports,check NE section)15 min's away form you in blackwood nj on the blackhorse pike.Motor installs for Fd's start around 3000 for basic reman with warranty . And the work can be done within a two week period.Please call me if I can help(856)227-1808......Jim
Originally posted by Snook
if you go to a shop to have the engine rebuilt make sure you are really careful because nobody knows what they are doing and if they do they can rip you off easier. Stick with the big named companies. Pineapple and Pettit pretty much
off topic again
jpandes nice car I just looked at the page
the wheels are so original and classy
I read through the mods your car should be killer fast right now! I would suggest a midpipe with a retune of the pfc and a ball and spring valve for the wastegate actuator at least to control boost. The home depot controllers suck. You will notice the boost fly to what you set it to (like you had set it for a much higher boost)and stop on a dime with the manual ball and spring valve.
if you go to a shop to have the engine rebuilt make sure you are really careful because nobody knows what they are doing and if they do they can rip you off easier. Stick with the big named companies. Pineapple and Pettit pretty much
off topic again
jpandes nice car I just looked at the page
the wheels are so original and classy
I read through the mods your car should be killer fast right now! I would suggest a midpipe with a retune of the pfc and a ball and spring valve for the wastegate actuator at least to control boost. The home depot controllers suck. You will notice the boost fly to what you set it to (like you had set it for a much higher boost)and stop on a dime with the manual ball and spring valve.
Thanks for the compliments Snook. I can't handle the smell of a Mid-pipe nor can I deal with the added noise volume. My 7 is my daily driver and I thinks it pretty loud as it is.
As for the Ball and spring boost controller; I bought a cheap on off ebay a while back and it sucked. The damn ball got stuck in the internal threads and kept my waste gate closed. I'll have to buy a well constructed one. Maybe a Dawes device or something. I'll do any thing to make my car spool up quicker.
John
Originally posted by jpandes
o
Thanks for the compliments Snook. I can't handle the smell of a Mid-pipe nor can I deal with the added noise volume. My 7 is my daily driver and I thinks it pretty loud as it is.
As for the Ball and spring boost controller; I bought a cheap on off ebay a while back and it sucked. The damn ball got stuck in the internal threads and kept my waste gate closed. I'll have to buy a well constructed one. Maybe a Dawes device or something. I'll do any thing to make my car spool up quicker.
John
o
Thanks for the compliments Snook. I can't handle the smell of a Mid-pipe nor can I deal with the added noise volume. My 7 is my daily driver and I thinks it pretty loud as it is.
As for the Ball and spring boost controller; I bought a cheap on off ebay a while back and it sucked. The damn ball got stuck in the internal threads and kept my waste gate closed. I'll have to buy a well constructed one. Maybe a Dawes device or something. I'll do any thing to make my car spool up quicker.
John
*laughs* It's the same around here.
Hitting 10.7 seconds in the 1/4 depends more on how hard you're willing to push the envelope. Then again, my car only ran a 10.8, so maybe I'm not qualified to say
Hitting 10.7 seconds in the 1/4 depends more on how hard you're willing to push the envelope. Then again, my car only ran a 10.8, so maybe I'm not qualified to say

Originally posted by TheRot8r
in australia u can get a 10.7 second engine (13bt) made up for 10,000 as what is about 5,000 us.........australia is rotary hevan!
in australia u can get a 10.7 second engine (13bt) made up for 10,000 as what is about 5,000 us.........australia is rotary hevan!
FWIW - I am very glad I went with a local builder/installer. I was thinking of taking my car to KDR (3hours away) or getting a motor from Pineapple, but neither had good turn around times, shipping sucked and if anything went wrong I was left to my own devices. If anything happens to my car or something doesn't sound right, I just pop into J&R and he addresses it.
You just need someone who knows what they are doing and takes the time to do it right.
You just need someone who knows what they are doing and takes the time to do it right.
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Houston
rebuild
I am in the process of getting quotes on a replacement engine, I am just curious has anyone had a New engine ordered from Mazda? The shop I asked, says they only install Mazda factory engines, and replace all vaccum lines, gaskets for intake and coolant hoses for around $5500. Does this sound right for this type of installation? (does not include rebuilt turbos, new clutch)
Thanks,
Jon
Thanks,
Jon
Re: rebuild
Originally posted by Jonny878
I am in the process of getting quotes on a replacement engine, I am just curious has anyone had a New engine ordered from Mazda? The shop I asked, says they only install Mazda factory engines, and replace all vaccum lines, gaskets for intake and coolant hoses for around $5500. Does this sound right for this type of installation? (does not include rebuilt turbos, new clutch)
Thanks,
Jon
I am in the process of getting quotes on a replacement engine, I am just curious has anyone had a New engine ordered from Mazda? The shop I asked, says they only install Mazda factory engines, and replace all vaccum lines, gaskets for intake and coolant hoses for around $5500. Does this sound right for this type of installation? (does not include rebuilt turbos, new clutch)
Thanks,
Jon
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Re: Re: rebuild
Originally posted by rynberg
That's a rip-off, drive up to Gotham Racing or Rotary Performance.
That's a rip-off, drive up to Gotham Racing or Rotary Performance.
Thanks for the alternate sources, I will look into location and give them a call.
Thanks.
Jonny
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tampa/Gainesville
Originally posted by jpandes
o
Thanks for the compliments Snook. I can't handle the smell of a Mid-pipe nor can I deal with the added noise volume. My 7 is my daily driver and I thinks it pretty loud as it is.
As for the Ball and spring boost controller; I bought a cheap on off ebay a while back and it sucked. The damn ball got stuck in the internal threads and kept my waste gate closed. I'll have to buy a well constructed one. Maybe a Dawes device or something. I'll do any thing to make my car spool up quicker.
John
o
Thanks for the compliments Snook. I can't handle the smell of a Mid-pipe nor can I deal with the added noise volume. My 7 is my daily driver and I thinks it pretty loud as it is.
As for the Ball and spring boost controller; I bought a cheap on off ebay a while back and it sucked. The damn ball got stuck in the internal threads and kept my waste gate closed. I'll have to buy a well constructed one. Maybe a Dawes device or something. I'll do any thing to make my car spool up quicker.
John
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: south jersey
are you lookin for a stock rebuild or a mild port job or what ever but u got alot of optione here buddy if you want to go fast jim has spme tricks up his sleeve and he wont rip you off dont worry
for motors: www.Pineappleracing.com
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