Does anyone know what the flow in GPM the powersteering pump produces? Or what the steering rack needs?

Its a little bit of a random question I know, but it would help me with some ideas I have.

Thanks

 

Dunno if anyone's ever benchmarked that, or if there's figures for it. I think there might be pressure ratings in the shop manual for the high pressure side, though.

It's a case of it works, so no one messes with it .

It would probably help if you let us know what you're planning on doing...

Dale

 

Plan is to re-fit power steering in my LS1 converted car, but at a flow rate as close to possible as stock. If I know the GPM, I can likely adjust down to maintain the same steering feel. The car is currently looped to manual steering.

I'll have to take a look in the manual, I'm not sure I have that section at home and last I looked the online site with the downloads wasn't up.

Thanks

 

Are you gonna be running the stock pump and rack, or a different rack? I do believe the stock pump has an adjustable orifice that you can change the amount of "boost" - at least the FC pumps did .

Dale

 

Running either an LS1 pump or aftermarket pump. I can place a valve in the line to lower the pressure...they are cheap enough to where I can trial and error until it feels right. I may take that route.

 

Don't bother.... get a REAL converted manual rack from Maval Gear. I think it's one of the best mods i ever did, and I wasn't even faced with a retrofitting exercise. Lighter, less clutter, better feel, and I can change my plugs from under the hood.

Thanks, JimLab!

www.mavalgear.com

 

Yea, I've debated on this. Is it that much better than just looping the lines? I might just do this instead...saves on alot of work too!

Thanks

 

I've never used a looped one... but i sure love this one.

 

Yes. With the recirculation loop, you're still pushing fluid from one side of the rack to the other, but without any help from a power steering pump, so there is some effort required and some restriction of movement. After the conversion, there is no restriction and the rack operates just like a manual rack, but with a better ratio than the 2nd gen. manual racks offer, and no fitment issues.

 

Thanks Jim. I'm likely to do this...its a 3 week lead time though. They don't have any cores, so have to send mine in and wait!

 

Did you call? The last I heard, they did have cores in stock, but it's been a couple months.

 

Yep, talked to them today. He said they were having a hard time sourcing core racks. They will have to modify mine.

 

We should get some of these dorks wrecking their cars and buying back the salvage to donate their racks for the cause.

 

I just received my maval manual rack this weekend. It looks to be a quality piece but I have a couple of questions/reservations. There are two things that concern me.

1) With the rack bolted in, there is a lot of slop in the build. For example; if I grab the drivers side tie rod, without it being attached to the tie rod end, and wiggle it, there is a lot of play. It clunks something fierce. I can feel the slop all the way to the other tie rod on the passenger side.

2)If I move the rack left and right by pulling and pushing on the tie rods, it sounds like there is grit/sand in the rack. It makes a gritty sound as it moves in and out. Almost as if the lube had sand in it.

I plan to call Dave at Maval on Monday. Til then, I was curious as to what experiences others have had with these racks. Everybody says they are great, but this can't be normal.

Mike

 

I haven't heard anyone else complain about the operation of their converted rack. Sorry to hear that there could be a problem with your rack.

BTW, your differential bushings should have shipped on Tuesday or Wednesday last week, so you should be receiving them shortly, if you haven't already.

 

received them already, thanks. I will have to see whats up with the rack. this just doesn't seem normal