FD original engine compression results at 140K
04-20-02, 04:49 PM
#1
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FD original engine compression results at 140K
Hi everyone...
My FD just hit 140,070 miles and to celebrate I took it in for a complete diagnostic including compression tests from the best rotary shop in the bay area (Ricks). I have read so many posts about everyone saying the engine will not last 80K. I bought my car a few months ago and I decided to get it checked out. The front rotor's nubmers are 8.6, 8.4, 8.6. The rear rotor is 8.9, 8.4, 8.6. According to him this is very strong #'s. He told me the turbo's work perfectly also, with the only problem, the rear turbo is blowing oil into the intercooler. According to him this is due to wear and mileage.
He did tell me that he is 'amazed' at how well it drives. AS I have been telling everyone on this forum, my car drives like new, with no loss of power.
At 133K miles the car had overheated and the car was towed to a garage and the seals were replaced. The engine was fine (because the owner did not try to drive it) so the seals and some hoses were replaced (about 2400). and a water pump was replaced. Other than that nothing but normal maintance items were replaced.
I guess my point is that if you take care of the car, the mileage does not matter. Take REALLY good care of it. Also I got the car for 12,700 and I know its a real good deal, I could have paid 16K for a 94 with 85K that will need a new engine because it was not maintained or was improperly modded. One additional thing, My car was originally sold in NC and I can tell on the carfax report it spent alot of time in NC and CA before finding its home here. So it has a lot of highway miles.
My point? I think alot of people don't modify the car right, I also think some are abused. If you take care of it, it will take of you. I am NOT saying that you will not have any problems, I mean I am 100 pct sure that my miata will not have to have its seals replaced at 133K, probably not at 200K either. But its not the 60 to 80K engine everyone talks about.
I hope this helps someone. BTW...My signature is just meant to be funny.
My FD just hit 140,070 miles and to celebrate I took it in for a complete diagnostic including compression tests from the best rotary shop in the bay area (Ricks). I have read so many posts about everyone saying the engine will not last 80K. I bought my car a few months ago and I decided to get it checked out. The front rotor's nubmers are 8.6, 8.4, 8.6. The rear rotor is 8.9, 8.4, 8.6. According to him this is very strong #'s. He told me the turbo's work perfectly also, with the only problem, the rear turbo is blowing oil into the intercooler. According to him this is due to wear and mileage.
He did tell me that he is 'amazed' at how well it drives. AS I have been telling everyone on this forum, my car drives like new, with no loss of power.
At 133K miles the car had overheated and the car was towed to a garage and the seals were replaced. The engine was fine (because the owner did not try to drive it) so the seals and some hoses were replaced (about 2400). and a water pump was replaced. Other than that nothing but normal maintance items were replaced.
I guess my point is that if you take care of the car, the mileage does not matter. Take REALLY good care of it. Also I got the car for 12,700 and I know its a real good deal, I could have paid 16K for a 94 with 85K that will need a new engine because it was not maintained or was improperly modded. One additional thing, My car was originally sold in NC and I can tell on the carfax report it spent alot of time in NC and CA before finding its home here. So it has a lot of highway miles.
My point? I think alot of people don't modify the car right, I also think some are abused. If you take care of it, it will take of you. I am NOT saying that you will not have any problems, I mean I am 100 pct sure that my miata will not have to have its seals replaced at 133K, probably not at 200K either. But its not the 60 to 80K engine everyone talks about.
I hope this helps someone. BTW...My signature is just meant to be funny.
04-20-02, 06:10 PM
#3
How do you know it is the original engine? If you didn't buy it from the original motor then you can't be sure it hasn't been replaced. A friend of mine bought a 93 Touring w/56K from the dealer, advertised as original motor. When he had a boost problem I pulled the upper intake and there was this "Mazda Rebuild" sticker on top of the "block".
Also what "seals" did they replace when the car was overheated? There aren't really any to replace without rebuilding the motor. If it lost coolant it was either a AST that split, or some water hose. None of those I'd call a "seal".
I think you need to clarify a few things...
Great compression numbers though!
Also what "seals" did they replace when the car was overheated? There aren't really any to replace without rebuilding the motor. If it lost coolant it was either a AST that split, or some water hose. None of those I'd call a "seal".
I think you need to clarify a few things...
Great compression numbers though!
04-20-02, 06:12 PM
#4
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Originally posted by turbojeff
Also what "seals" did they replace when the car was overheated? There aren't really any to replace without rebuilding the motor. If it lost coolant it was either a AST that split, or some water hose. None of those I'd call a "seal".
Also what "seals" did they replace when the car was overheated? There aren't really any to replace without rebuilding the motor. If it lost coolant it was either a AST that split, or some water hose. None of those I'd call a "seal".
04-20-02, 06:31 PM
#5
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Well, congtrats on a good deal, and nice motor firstly.
Secondly though my engine was replaced at 70,000 miles due to an overheat, and I did not try to drive my car at all. When it overheated I stopped, parked it, and walked home and picked it up later.
Why did it overheat? The Thermostat had gotten stuck.
Is that really a part of poor maintance? I dunno. Most cars don't need a new thermostat before 100K miles so it wasn't something that I thought about changing out for no reason. In retrospect, and knowing what I now know, I'll probably change out the thermostat every 50K miles.
Also, was the number that you quoted, 2400 the cost fo teh "seal replacement"? Because that is about what it costs to rebuild a motor, so it sounds to me like the motor had been rebuilt.
Secondly though my engine was replaced at 70,000 miles due to an overheat, and I did not try to drive my car at all. When it overheated I stopped, parked it, and walked home and picked it up later.
Why did it overheat? The Thermostat had gotten stuck.
Is that really a part of poor maintance? I dunno. Most cars don't need a new thermostat before 100K miles so it wasn't something that I thought about changing out for no reason. In retrospect, and knowing what I now know, I'll probably change out the thermostat every 50K miles.
Also, was the number that you quoted, 2400 the cost fo teh "seal replacement"? Because that is about what it costs to rebuild a motor, so it sounds to me like the motor had been rebuilt.
04-20-02, 07:02 PM
#6
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Hi...
I don't know what seals. I have the maintenance receipt and the price was $2400.00 To lift the engine replace some hoses and replace some seals. I can check the receipt later to look at it. A rebuilt motor costs alot more than 2400.00. Maybe I'm wrong, I did not own it. I asked the previous owner because I hoped it was rebuilt, but he said it wasn't. So I dunno.
Malachi, where do you get a 2400.00 to rebuild the motor? I will get my receipt out later today and post the 2 paragraphs from the mechanic. I hope it was rebuilt!
Also...what are "perfect" compression #'s?
I don't know what seals. I have the maintenance receipt and the price was $2400.00 To lift the engine replace some hoses and replace some seals. I can check the receipt later to look at it. A rebuilt motor costs alot more than 2400.00. Maybe I'm wrong, I did not own it. I asked the previous owner because I hoped it was rebuilt, but he said it wasn't. So I dunno.
Malachi, where do you get a 2400.00 to rebuild the motor? I will get my receipt out later today and post the 2 paragraphs from the mechanic. I hope it was rebuilt!
Also...what are "perfect" compression #'s?
04-20-02, 07:09 PM
#7
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You can buy a remanufactured motor(essentially new, sometimes better then new) for under $2,000, and the labor to install it is about $1,000.
You should be able to get your engine pulled, get a new motor(reman) , and have it installed for under $3,000 if that is all that is needed.
You should be able to get your engine pulled, get a new motor(reman) , and have it installed for under $3,000 if that is all that is needed.
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04-20-02, 07:34 PM
#8
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Ok, here it is word for word.....Let me know if its a rebuild, its driving me crazy.
Towed to shop.. Diagnostic package # 2. Customer states that car overheated and just stopped. There is coolant and maybe some oil leaking from under the car. nothing happens when I turn the key on. No gauges come on at all. Tech note: Radiator cap bad causing coolant to overflow, recommend a replacement. Found Major oil leak coming from front engine cover, recommend resealing cover. Replace radiator cap. Note NO further loss of coolant detected at this time. Oil Leak repair includes: Remove all front engine acc4essories, remove lower engine cradel, remove all necessary harnesses, (tech Note: upon dissassemble process we ran into a few different engine vacuum components that had been previously broken where someone had attempted to glue back together-we recommend replacement, customer agreed. ) Raise engine as to gain access to front engine cover, remove cover, clean and inspect surface, install new cover with new gaskets, install needed vacuum components, resinstall in reverse process of removal. Removal includes: Remove and replace spark plugs and air filter, remove and replace water pump and thermostat, replenish engine with engine coolant and oil. purge air from cooling system. Road tested and checked no leaks detected at this time. Spark plugs excessively worn and air filter was dirty Oil pan was removed and resealed and re installed."
Ok...doesnt sound like a rebuild to me. what do you think? BTW..I just noticed the receipt is from a shop near where I work, i will bring it in to them it was done not even a year ago.
Towed to shop.. Diagnostic package # 2. Customer states that car overheated and just stopped. There is coolant and maybe some oil leaking from under the car. nothing happens when I turn the key on. No gauges come on at all. Tech note: Radiator cap bad causing coolant to overflow, recommend a replacement. Found Major oil leak coming from front engine cover, recommend resealing cover. Replace radiator cap. Note NO further loss of coolant detected at this time. Oil Leak repair includes: Remove all front engine acc4essories, remove lower engine cradel, remove all necessary harnesses, (tech Note: upon dissassemble process we ran into a few different engine vacuum components that had been previously broken where someone had attempted to glue back together-we recommend replacement, customer agreed. ) Raise engine as to gain access to front engine cover, remove cover, clean and inspect surface, install new cover with new gaskets, install needed vacuum components, resinstall in reverse process of removal. Removal includes: Remove and replace spark plugs and air filter, remove and replace water pump and thermostat, replenish engine with engine coolant and oil. purge air from cooling system. Road tested and checked no leaks detected at this time. Spark plugs excessively worn and air filter was dirty Oil pan was removed and resealed and re installed."
Ok...doesnt sound like a rebuild to me. what do you think? BTW..I just noticed the receipt is from a shop near where I work, i will bring it in to them it was done not even a year ago.
04-20-02, 07:43 PM
#9
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Originally posted by Malachi151
You can buy a remanufactured motor(essentially new, sometimes better then new) for under $2,000, and the labor to install it is about $1,000.
You should be able to get your engine pulled, get a new motor(reman) , and have it installed for under $3,000 if that is all that is needed.
You can buy a remanufactured motor(essentially new, sometimes better then new) for under $2,000, and the labor to install it is about $1,000.
You should be able to get your engine pulled, get a new motor(reman) , and have it installed for under $3,000 if that is all that is needed.
04-20-02, 11:41 PM
#10
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only mazda remans leak from the front cover....
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