FD not holding coolant
07-01-10, 02:04 AM
#1
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FD not holding coolant
I'm beginning to think my car hates me.
Ever since I've put my new-used (28,000 original miles) engine in, I haven't been able to keep the coolant in it.
I know it's not consuming it, as I can visually see it exiting from the overflow when I come to a stop. I wouldn't say its violently flowing out of it, as there is just a slight trail of coolant following the car, and I can't say if it does it all the time, or just when I come to a stop, as I only ever actually SEE it when I park the car in the garage.
To add more confusion to this situation, I don't see the trail every time I park the car, and the actually amount of coolant I lost is NEVER the same, even if I drove the same distance, but there is ALWAYS an amount missing. I have never had the add coolant buzzer come on while I am driving the car, just if i park it, let it sit for 5 + minutes, then start it back up and drive without adding coolant.
I've done the champaign bubble test, I let the car cool overnight, started it in the morning with the cap off, watched it for two minutes, and saw not one bubble. I never see any smoke in the exhaust, and it never smells "sweet."
I don't see a point in performing a pressure test, as I know exactly where the coolant exits the system from
I do have an AST delete, and I have the proper Stant cap on the thermostat housing with an FC top leading to the overflow. I DID try replacing the cap.
I know the overflow isn't leaking, as I just had it out to check it for cracks and clean it.
I don't know if this is normal, but if I take the cap off while the engine is still hot but not running (obviously vent it, and hear coolant gurgling in the overflow) the level fluctuates IE: constantly goes up and down in the thermostat housing. I'm not too sure what to make of this....
Ever since I've put my new-used (28,000 original miles) engine in, I haven't been able to keep the coolant in it.
I know it's not consuming it, as I can visually see it exiting from the overflow when I come to a stop. I wouldn't say its violently flowing out of it, as there is just a slight trail of coolant following the car, and I can't say if it does it all the time, or just when I come to a stop, as I only ever actually SEE it when I park the car in the garage.
To add more confusion to this situation, I don't see the trail every time I park the car, and the actually amount of coolant I lost is NEVER the same, even if I drove the same distance, but there is ALWAYS an amount missing. I have never had the add coolant buzzer come on while I am driving the car, just if i park it, let it sit for 5 + minutes, then start it back up and drive without adding coolant.
I've done the champaign bubble test, I let the car cool overnight, started it in the morning with the cap off, watched it for two minutes, and saw not one bubble. I never see any smoke in the exhaust, and it never smells "sweet."
I don't see a point in performing a pressure test, as I know exactly where the coolant exits the system from
I do have an AST delete, and I have the proper Stant cap on the thermostat housing with an FC top leading to the overflow. I DID try replacing the cap.
I know the overflow isn't leaking, as I just had it out to check it for cracks and clean it.
I don't know if this is normal, but if I take the cap off while the engine is still hot but not running (obviously vent it, and hear coolant gurgling in the overflow) the level fluctuates IE: constantly goes up and down in the thermostat housing. I'm not too sure what to make of this....
07-01-10, 05:39 AM
#3
Siphon some of the coolant out of the overflow tank. Look on the dipstick "Full" is only a couple inches of coolant. There is an overflow hole in the top of the tank, that is where the excess coolant is coming from. Once you get the level normalized, see if it fills back up and over flows again.
A coolant hydrocarbon test is the only real way to rule out coolant seal failure. This tells you if there are any exhaust gases in the coolant.
A coolant hydrocarbon test is the only real way to rule out coolant seal failure. This tells you if there are any exhaust gases in the coolant.
07-01-10, 08:30 AM
#4
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id also recommend the coolant system pressure test. had pretty much the same issue on a new rebuild. id get the coolant pressure tester from autozone or this http://www.pineappleracing.com/cooli...estercspt.aspx to check the block.
my issue turned out to be the drain plug was only figer tight and somehow allowing air in and then when the car parked it would overflow all over the ground from the coolant overflow not the drain. yet it wsa perfectly fine driving around running it would only dump when shut down after a few minutes.
i liked the pinapple tester as it will without a doubt check your block no questions asked. ifound that with the auto zone tester i was tracking down too many loose clamps and the like to be able to test it without a doubt. i didnt purchase the pineapple unit i ended up making my own from a spare boost gauge and fitting but you get the idea.
z
my issue turned out to be the drain plug was only figer tight and somehow allowing air in and then when the car parked it would overflow all over the ground from the coolant overflow not the drain. yet it wsa perfectly fine driving around running it would only dump when shut down after a few minutes.
i liked the pinapple tester as it will without a doubt check your block no questions asked. ifound that with the auto zone tester i was tracking down too many loose clamps and the like to be able to test it without a doubt. i didnt purchase the pineapple unit i ended up making my own from a spare boost gauge and fitting but you get the idea.
z
07-01-10, 11:06 AM
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I have my fans wired to two switches, and even if I run with them both on all the time it will still lose some coolant.
The overflow is "overfilled" I will try this and let you know the results.
Siphon some of the coolant out of the overflow tank. Look on the dipstick "Full" is only a couple inches of coolant. There is an overflow hole in the top of the tank, that is where the excess coolant is coming from. Once you get the level normalized, see if it fills back up and over flows again.
A coolant hydrocarbon test is the only real way to rule out coolant seal failure. This tells you if there are any exhaust gases in the coolant.
A coolant hydrocarbon test is the only real way to rule out coolant seal failure. This tells you if there are any exhaust gases in the coolant.
07-01-10, 11:48 AM
#6
Make sure you do the coolant hydrocarbon test... I had a similar issue.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/found-culprit-causing-all-my-coolant-pains-868822/
Now I'm not saying that is your culprit, I'm just emphazising that a hydrocarbon test is in order. If we would had done that we wouldn't had spent all that time trouble shooting.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/found-culprit-causing-all-my-coolant-pains-868822/
Now I'm not saying that is your culprit, I'm just emphazising that a hydrocarbon test is in order. If we would had done that we wouldn't had spent all that time trouble shooting.
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07-04-10, 10:59 AM
#9
Make sure the cap's bottom valve is normally closed / sprung closed.
Many NEW caps I've looked at have the bottom are spung loosely open.
Also, if your Autozone has the plastic coolant pressure tester, it is crap, and doesn't seal well.
O'Reilly carriers an all metal one that has the correct adapters, and seals great!
Check out my threads here on this issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8#post10057088
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/lowered-ast-wont-allow-me-get-coolant-full-891693/
:-) neil
Many NEW caps I've looked at have the bottom are spung loosely open.
Also, if your Autozone has the plastic coolant pressure tester, it is crap, and doesn't seal well.
O'Reilly carriers an all metal one that has the correct adapters, and seals great!
Check out my threads here on this issue:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8#post10057088
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/lowered-ast-wont-allow-me-get-coolant-full-891693/
:-) neil
07-04-10, 02:41 PM
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Believe it or not, I actually referenced your thread when purchasing my new cap.
And I did rent autozones coolant pressure tester, indeed that thing was garbage.
After "steam cleaning" my engine, the symptoms seem to be worsening.
Massive puffs of smoke when starting the engine, and it runs like complete *** until I rev it a few times, backfiring, popping, very shallow non-throaty sounding, but it all clears up in about 10 seconds.
I'll be picking up a hydrocarbon tester tomorrow, I'll post the results.
And I did rent autozones coolant pressure tester, indeed that thing was garbage.
After "steam cleaning" my engine, the symptoms seem to be worsening.
Massive puffs of smoke when starting the engine, and it runs like complete *** until I rev it a few times, backfiring, popping, very shallow non-throaty sounding, but it all clears up in about 10 seconds.
I'll be picking up a hydrocarbon tester tomorrow, I'll post the results.
07-04-10, 02:47 PM
#11
make sure your plastic 2nd gen filler housing isn't warped(bowed up in the center) it can cause the cap to not seal on the outside edges resulting in all pressurized coolant to be pushed into the overflow.
a better idea might be to have kept the original aluminum filler housing and tap a fitting into it(yes, i know there isn't much room to do that). the plastic housings are garbage.
a better idea might be to have kept the original aluminum filler housing and tap a fitting into it(yes, i know there isn't much room to do that). the plastic housings are garbage.
07-05-10, 02:39 AM
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make sure your plastic 2nd gen filler housing isn't warped(bowed up in the center) it can cause the cap to not seal on the outside edges resulting in all pressurized coolant to be pushed into the overflow.
a better idea might be to have kept the original aluminum filler housing and tap a fitting into it(yes, i know there isn't much room to do that). the plastic housings are garbage.
a better idea might be to have kept the original aluminum filler housing and tap a fitting into it(yes, i know there isn't much room to do that). the plastic housings are garbage.
Although I'm not sure whats causing it to run like it is now, it seems like it's only running on one rotor, and whenever i give it gas it "pops" so to speak.
07-05-10, 11:49 PM
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"I have my fans wired to two switches, and even if I run with them both on all the time it will still lose some coolant."
of course it will lose liquid, thats why its called a test. get a tri-point ast. install a temporary coolant line..watch the pressure as it heats up **hot soak & cool down.
of course it will lose liquid, thats why its called a test. get a tri-point ast. install a temporary coolant line..watch the pressure as it heats up **hot soak & cool down.
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