Failing Alternator?
#1
Failing Alternator?
I have done a lot of research and I think my alternator is dead. Here is what happened/symptoms. About two weeks ago, my charge battery, abs light, and oil pressure and temp red lights all came on. I pulled off the road, turned the car off and checked everything out, it seemed fine. It was fine for a few days.
Than about a week later, they started coming on more frequently and when-ever the lights came on my stereo would turn off. The lights would also turn on anytime I used the brakes and the stereo would shut off. After about 30 minutes of driving the lights would go away and everything worked fine again.
The problems have just gotten worse. About two days ago, the car was pretty hard to start and really lacked acceleration power when the lights came on. They would not go away. Last night the car took a couple seconds to start, the lights were extremely dim and you could see that it just was not being supplied any power.
This morning I went to start it, and it will not turn over, I hear it clicking and wanting to turn-over but it won’t, after a few seconds of trying it kind of makes a grinding noise. I am assuming this is a bad/failed alternator? The starter was just replaced and the rest of the symptoms don't point to a failed started. Is there a difference between an automatic and manual alternator, or are they same? How hard is this to replace, should I just take it to a shop to swap out the alternator? I know it is only a 100amp alternator, should I upgrade to something bigger? Thanks for any input!
I hate this car, everytime I fix something, two more things break. This might be the last straw.
Than about a week later, they started coming on more frequently and when-ever the lights came on my stereo would turn off. The lights would also turn on anytime I used the brakes and the stereo would shut off. After about 30 minutes of driving the lights would go away and everything worked fine again.
The problems have just gotten worse. About two days ago, the car was pretty hard to start and really lacked acceleration power when the lights came on. They would not go away. Last night the car took a couple seconds to start, the lights were extremely dim and you could see that it just was not being supplied any power.
This morning I went to start it, and it will not turn over, I hear it clicking and wanting to turn-over but it won’t, after a few seconds of trying it kind of makes a grinding noise. I am assuming this is a bad/failed alternator? The starter was just replaced and the rest of the symptoms don't point to a failed started. Is there a difference between an automatic and manual alternator, or are they same? How hard is this to replace, should I just take it to a shop to swap out the alternator? I know it is only a 100amp alternator, should I upgrade to something bigger? Thanks for any input!
I hate this car, everytime I fix something, two more things break. This might be the last straw.
Last edited by purerx7; 12-05-08 at 11:34 AM.
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#12
Racecar - Formula 2000
Slightly off topic, but...
I had a perfectly good, but 194K old OE alternator on my '74 Chevy Van tow vehicle. I thought the alternator was too old, so I bought and installed a rebuilt alternator. I kept the OE one as a spare. 10K miles later, the rebuilt alternator seized up, taking the belt with it - its bearings had failed. So, I put the old one that I carried with us back on... There's more to the story, but that's not the point. And, this is not the only time stuff like this has happened.
The bottom line is that most rebuilds are rebuilt with the bare minimum of stuff necessary to make them work. Almost nothing, like bearings, will be replaced if the rebuilt unit will work without it. As a result I am very picky about what I will use to replace stuff. If a new OE part is available, I'll use that. It definitely saves time and money in the long run.
I had a perfectly good, but 194K old OE alternator on my '74 Chevy Van tow vehicle. I thought the alternator was too old, so I bought and installed a rebuilt alternator. I kept the OE one as a spare. 10K miles later, the rebuilt alternator seized up, taking the belt with it - its bearings had failed. So, I put the old one that I carried with us back on... There's more to the story, but that's not the point. And, this is not the only time stuff like this has happened.
The bottom line is that most rebuilds are rebuilt with the bare minimum of stuff necessary to make them work. Almost nothing, like bearings, will be replaced if the rebuilt unit will work without it. As a result I am very picky about what I will use to replace stuff. If a new OE part is available, I'll use that. It definitely saves time and money in the long run.
#13
Project Restore
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My experience is that rebuilt alternators are pricey from Autozone/Pep Boys/OReilly whatever, IF they even carry them. Go OEM, which isn't cheap either but lasts longer. Check the classifieds, too. Seen some nice polished ones.
Has anyone tried rebuilding one? There's instructions in the FSM but just curious if someone has actually done it. I doubt the windings go bad so it's probably the brushes and/or stator ring.
Has anyone tried rebuilding one? There's instructions in the FSM but just curious if someone has actually done it. I doubt the windings go bad so it's probably the brushes and/or stator ring.
#14
No more G6
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My experience is that rebuilt alternators are pricey from Autozone/Pep Boys/OReilly whatever, IF they even carry them. Go OEM, which isn't cheap either but lasts longer. Check the classifieds, too. Seen some nice polished ones.
Has anyone tried rebuilding one? There's instructions in the FSM but just curious if someone has actually done it. I doubt the windings go bad so it's probably the brushes and/or stator ring.
Has anyone tried rebuilding one? There's instructions in the FSM but just curious if someone has actually done it. I doubt the windings go bad so it's probably the brushes and/or stator ring.
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