I have done a lot of research and I think my alternator is dead. Here is what happened/symptoms. About two weeks ago, my charge battery, abs light, and oil pressure and temp red lights all came on. I pulled off the road, turned the car off and checked everything out, it seemed fine. It was fine for a few days.

Than about a week later, they started coming on more frequently and when-ever the lights came on my stereo would turn off. The lights would also turn on anytime I used the brakes and the stereo would shut off. After about 30 minutes of driving the lights would go away and everything worked fine again.
The problems have just gotten worse. About two days ago, the car was pretty hard to start and really lacked acceleration power when the lights came on. They would not go away. Last night the car took a couple seconds to start, the lights were extremely dim and you could see that it just was not being supplied any power.

This morning I went to start it, and it will not turn over, I hear it clicking and wanting to turn-over but it won’t, after a few seconds of trying it kind of makes a grinding noise. I am assuming this is a bad/failed alternator? The starter was just replaced and the rest of the symptoms don't point to a failed started. Is there a difference between an automatic and manual alternator, or are they same? How hard is this to replace, should I just take it to a shop to swap out the alternator? I know it is only a 100amp alternator, should I upgrade to something bigger? Thanks for any input!

I hate this car, everytime I fix something, two more things break. This might be the last straw.

 

that's def a failed alternator

classic/textbook symptoms

 

Change out the altenator and it will go away.


Later

 

If you're running a PFC than you should be able to check voltages. The FSM also shows you how to check the status of your alternator using an ammeter.

 

+1 on the PFC comment. If your alternator is charging, then voltage should hover around 14 volts. If it isn't working, then voltage will be whatever is in your battery.

Does sound like your alternator...

Good luck.

Charlie

 

I have a rebuilt and polished one in stock.

 

that's all i needed to read, my car did the same thing and it was a failed alternator

 

does anyone have experience with Advance/AutoZone alternators?

 

I am having the exact same issues right now. Ihor, I sent you a PM.

 

I just remember the price being way high.

 

An autozone part will be a rebuilt piece of ****. Go oem, it will last another 15 years.

 

Slightly off topic, but...

I had a perfectly good, but 194K old OE alternator on my '74 Chevy Van tow vehicle. I thought the alternator was too old, so I bought and installed a rebuilt alternator. I kept the OE one as a spare. 10K miles later, the rebuilt alternator seized up, taking the belt with it - its bearings had failed. So, I put the old one that I carried with us back on... There's more to the story, but that's not the point. And, this is not the only time stuff like this has happened.

The bottom line is that most rebuilds are rebuilt with the bare minimum of stuff necessary to make them work. Almost nothing, like bearings, will be replaced if the rebuilt unit will work without it. As a result I am very picky about what I will use to replace stuff. If a new OE part is available, I'll use that. It definitely saves time and money in the long run.

 

My experience is that rebuilt alternators are pricey from Autozone/Pep Boys/OReilly whatever, IF they even carry them. Go OEM, which isn't cheap either but lasts longer. Check the classifieds, too. Seen some nice polished ones.

Has anyone tried rebuilding one? There's instructions in the FSM but just curious if someone has actually done it. I doubt the windings go bad so it's probably the brushes and/or stator ring.

 

i have rebuilt and alternator but not one for an rx7. It's exactly like you said just brushes and cleand everything up.

 

I wouldn't use autoparts stores rebuilds on these cars. Too much stuff that can go wrong if the voltage is incorrect. My rebuilder bench tests each one before and after the rebuild by hand to make sure they put out the right voltage.