I just installed a wideband sensor and gauge and I notice that my car runs around 11 to 1 at idle. It runs around 14.5 to 1 just regular driving no boost, but should it really be that rich at idle?

Still have the stock ECU so I can't really do anything about it, I was just wondering

 

For a stock ECU car, I have no idea. I've been able to get ~13.5 to 1 AFR with a stable idle. Anything too much over that on my car hunts a little bit. I think some other people have been able to get over 14:1 or leaner. But 11:1 @ idle is retarded rich, IMO. In boost yeah, but at idle... too much fuel.

 

Wow, that is extremely rich. You are probably getting shitty gas mileage.
Do you have a CEL on?
I would check the TPS, CTS or something in that manner that can affect your AFR that much at idle.

 

I do have a CEL code 27 oil metering pump. I already did all the tests, its the pump not my wiring now I'm just deciding on apexi power fc with primix or fix the pump. Could that code cause it to run rich maybe? Car is in limp mode but if the CEL was causing rich idle wouldnt it run rich while driving too? Like I said only idle is rich, normal driving no load it runs 14.5afr

 

stock ecu car it should read very lean due to the dilution of the airpump. the airpump injects air at the exhaust port, before the cat.

 

Various things connected to the wiring harness can cause the car to run rich at idle like that.

 

argh, depending on where the wb sensor is placed it may or may not be effected by the air pump

 

If the ACV and airpump are working like factory, the mixture is diluted right as it leaves the engine. This is to improve catalyst efficiency in the oxidation process to conver HC and CO. Air is only injected directly into the cat during cruising conditions that produce high levels of NOx emissions.

 

Do give me a list so I can start checking stuff. I'm guessing sensors but I'm not too familiar with rotary

 

At first i'll check for o2 sensor and second for tps ajustement!

Eric

 

Its not the o2, I have my wideband installed in place where the stock O2 should be. I connected my wideband's 0-1v signal to the cars ECU. I know the O2 is telling the ECU correct reading since my wideband is brand new and my 0-5v wideband reading at the wideband gauge is reading correct.

I'm gonna try TPS adjustment, I didn't know you could adjust it. I'm a honda guy and there is not adjusting the TPS on them.

 

that actually might be the problem, try reconnecting the stock 02 sensor and get a different bung for the WB sensor and locate it further down stream and see if that helps any.

 

Check the instruction manuel of your wideband! Mine need to be installed at 36inch of the turbo because they dont like high temp.

Mine is intalled just in front of the main cat (i have no precat and no air pump)

I got the same rich problem at idles but with a PFC. I got a faulty o2 that i need to replace. At idle, do your car smell realy bad from exhaust?

Good luck

Eric

 

erix, if you've got a PFC turn off 02 feedback and unplug and remove the stock sensor and plug the bung

 

This.

 

I'm seeing 13.5:1 AFR's at idle with the o2 feedback off. Dunno if that helps ya out or not.

 

Already done!

But the car run rich and smeel bad! I probably need to relearn the idle to my pfc witout o2 feedback on pfc.

Eric

 

I checked my wideband manual and it says on Turbo cars just make sure the wideband is installed after the turbo and before the cat (common sense). I'm really thinking my car has an intermittent or bad sensor (maybe tps or coolant temp sensor maybe). Figuring out which one when I have no CEL code coming up is gonna be the problem.

Does anyone know if the RD RX7's have two different coolant sensors, one for the cluster gauge, and a different one for the ECU? Or is it just one for both like on some cars? My water temp gauge works fine

 

The FD has a separate sensors for the ECU and the dash gauge.

 

FWIW, the sensor the ECU uses is on the back of the waterpump housing. That sensor is the exact same type of sensor as the fuel thermosensor. The connectors for both are exactly the same and can be accidentally exchanged if not careful. If you do, the car will run like crap as it will be reading the fuel temp for the coolant temp and the coolant temp for the fuel temp.

 

Do you by any chance know where each one is? And which one is for gauge and ECU. I'm mainly interested in one that sends info to ECU

 

See my message above about the ECU sensor. The sensor for the dash is on the rear iron under the oil pressure sender.

 

Like Mahjik said, it is on the back of the waterpump housing. I believe it is a green colored wire plug on the sensor itself. I also believe it is the upper of the two sensors on the back of the wp housing. This can be found in the fsm.

I see several threads you are asking questions in concerning a few different problems. One suggestion is to focus on each problem, solve it, then move on to the next one. You may cause yourself fewer headaches and also decrease the risk of causing more problems too since you are new to the car.

 

Thanks Mahjik, I didn't realize you said where it was but yea I found the coolant thermosensor in the FSM. I'll start by testing that and see what the results are

 

As he said. Note the even though your WB has a 1V output, it does not output the same waveform as a stock sensor and, therefore, the ECU may interpret it differently.