but don't you think the car would run shitty or have at least some other problems if the WB was the problem. If the frequency is different on the 0-1v the ecu would go crazy I think but it doesn't, car drives fine only rich at idle. I also talk to innovate they make my wideband and they said its fine connecting it the way I did. I could try it but the car smelled bad at idle before the wb, I think it was rich before too but I'm not a 100% sure since I didn't have a wb installed then

 

I once disconnected my stock O2 sensor, put a wideband in its place (wideband was not connected to the stock ECU), and ran the car on the stock ECU for a few days. AFR at idle was around 11-12 AFR when the air pump was disconnected, and about 17 AFR with the air pump connected. It's been a few years since then so I'm not 100% sure on those AFRs... and since the stock ECU wasn't seeing any O2 sensor it's difficult to say how the stock ECU would have acted with an O2 sensor connected.

I also tried connecting the 0-1V output of the wideband to the stock ECU and the car ran poorly... throttle response wasn't quite right so I disconnected it. This was using an AEM wideband gauge, the Innovate circuit may be different so it's tough to say if that's causing your problem or not. If it's not too difficult, you might want to try reinstalling the stock O2 sensor temporarily and see if the car acts differently.

 

Problem is if I install the stock o2 I have to remove the wideband and then I don't know what the a/f is. Could be the same worse or good. I don't feel like removing the down pipe to weld another o2 bong. I think I'm just gonna get a power fc, that will fix all the problems I'm having

 

You can use your output signal from your WB AEM but you need to set it to 0-1v output.




I think you have to set it on P3 setting: Autronic emulation

Eric

 

I know how it is with removing the dp, if you have a a straight exhaust like me, it's easier to just bring the midpipe to a welder with the bung and put it at the begining of it.. Had mine there for 3 weeks now and I have no trouble with the readings and it will keep the sensor away a bit more from the heat

 

i installed my WB on the main cat pipe! it's easiest to remove than downpipe but careful to install it on the input side and don't forget to install it at a angle of 10 degree just like in the instruction manuel



Eric

 

I have mine straight up on my mp and have no problems.. Went to a muffler shop and asked to went an o2 sensor here so I don't think he did a 10 degree thing

 

Ok I guess I'll just take my mid pipe down and install the wideband there & see what happens

 

Just bought a PowerFc. Bought the commander for $120 and powerfc for $540 shipped. I got so many problems with this stupid OEM ecu that this just couldn't wait. I see why people recommend the PFC as one of the first, if not the first upgrade you should do.

HERE IS EVERYTHING I'M GONNA FIX BY INSTALLING THE PFC ON MY FD
- Bad OMP, no sense fixing it when I wanna run premix anyways and synthetic OIL in MY engine so with PFC this should be easy
- Super rich idle, I should be able to fix that now with the PFC no problem
- Full 3" exhaust with no cat (megnaflow straight through muffler in its place) so Im sure I need more fuel
- Huge water to air intercooler (core size 10' X 10" x 9") so def very low intake temp at boost, so again need more fuel
- All aluminum intakes and turbo piping for much much better flow then the stock, this alone can give you great HP numbers and its easy to do. Stock piping (especially the intakes and intercooler elbows) couldn't have been designed worse. They make so much turbulence that it slows your air flow down by a lot, kills lots of ponies and throttle response time

 

make sure you remove the OMP and do it right, and since you'll probably have the UIM off, you might as well simplify and replace the vacuum hoses, it's your call if you want simplified sequential or non-sequential, also get block off plates and block off anything you can. Glad to see you got a good deal on your PFC, to do everything you may want to do, I recommend getting a datalogit and PM chuck about getting in his PFC group and reading ALL of his notes. You may not understand it all, but it helps a LOT
https://www.rx7club.com/members/cewrx7r1-50/
I couldn't thank chuck enough once I read the notes through completely the first time, and I still go back and reference them all the time.

 

To be honest I would love nothing more then to remove every vacuum line and unnecessary emission related part, but I can find a good how-to on it. I LOVE a clean engine bay and rotary get like a -5 in that department. I know if I end up pulling my engine out for a rebuild then I'll do it for sure but not so sure I can or wanna do it while it in there.

I read the FAQ on the PFC so I know about the 4 wires and the idle learning procedure. I'm not new to tunning, I've been tunning b-series Hondas with Hondata and Apexi VAFC for years. I am new to the the world of rotary but so far loving it. I PMd him, if he has some good notes yea I would def love to read them.

 

the notes are awesome, when I get home I'll try and find some good links for you that I have bookmarked about setting the base map and so on. The datalogit is a lifesaver. you don't really need a how-to on removing the stuff, just follow the vacuum hose diagrams that are floating around, non-sequential is the easiest to do and it's what I have, but simplified sequential is probably the most rewarding. Remove your air pump if you don't have to worry about emissions and get block off plates for it.

 

I actually wanna buy the datalogit but was wondering if you can do everything with datalogit that the commander can do? If I get the datalogit is there anything I still need the commander for? Seeing how they are both about the same price I'd much rather get the datalogit if the commander is useless. I am more use to doing tuning straight from the laptop anyways. And yea bud if you have any good links do post them, thanks

 

I personally use the commander as a gauge to monitor boost, knock, water temp, air temp and the maximums for each of these seen during the drive. The datalogit can do everything that the commander can and much more, and it makes tuning significantly easier as everything is in 8 or 9 tabs, actually... hang on a minute, I'll just open the program and take a few screen shots for ya.

 

first page/last tab

corrections map/first tab

leading timing/2nd tab

trailing timing/3rd tab

there's a little tab at the bottom that displays the split between leading and trailing ignition timing

base map/4th tab

settings 1/5th tab

settings 2/6th tab

settings 3/7th tab

settings 4/8th tab

settings 5/9th tab

the compare function that allows you to see changes you made.

 

The commander is a good monitoring tool. The datalogit is if your tuning your own car.

thewird

 

Damn now I want the datalogit too! But you can tune with the commander too, cant you? I thought it was just harder with the commander.

Hey KKM are you using it with a USB cable? Don't have a serial port on my MBP so I hope it works fine with USB to serial adapter

 

You can make some changes with the commander, but you cannot tune with it. Just like the wird mentioned, you need the datalogit to tune.

 

serial port to usb converter thingy, bought it from rotary performance
you can make adjustments with the commander, but with logging you can make accurate changes, as I'm sure you know if you've ever logged before.

 

You cannot use the commander to tune. It's best not to mention what you can do on the commander so people don't think they can do it who have never worked with one before. Putting it simply, you can use the commander to make minor changes AFTER it is tuned with a datalogit and the tuner knows how it was tuned and what can be easily corrected with just the commander.

thewird

 

Yea thats what I was wondering. I just need to be able to make adjustments to the a/f with the commander. I know you can not tune with it obviously since you need to log your A/F against your engines RPMs and the PFC can't do that.

 

The fuel adjustment on the commander is only the correction map. (INJ MAP). If your base map is not smooth to begin with and your Inj Map isn't zero'd out, it would be very difficult to apply corrections.

thewird

 

I though that the base map that comes on the powerFC is already pretty good. I also read that with a commander I should be able to reset the powerFC back to the base map (like in case you bought a used powerFC like I did)? So wouldn't resetting the powerFC back to stock make it have the stock base fuel map and the INJ map should zero out as well with the powerFC reset? I just wanna be able to get my idle fixed because my car runs at 11to1 at idle, its way toooo rich. For the serious tuning I will be getting the datalogit later

 

If all you want to do is idle, you should be able to do it on the commander. And no, the base map doesn't have the Inj Map zero'd out (recalculated)

thewird