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A/F meter, Wich one should I buy???

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Old 06-15-02, 04:43 PM
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A/F meter, Wich one should I buy???

Hi all!

Please recommend me a good air/fuel meter.
Wich one shoud I buy??? I am looking for a good
accurancy and ease of installation.

Thanks

Serge
Old 06-15-02, 04:45 PM
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One modified by www.gadgetseller.com . Narrows the resolution to readings during WOT.
Old 06-15-02, 11:47 PM
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They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
Old 06-16-02, 12:44 AM
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Originally posted by skunks
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
I don't think he means to use to tune, but as extra information while driving. Always nice to have a bit of extra info, such as if you are starting to lean out due to things like a clogged fuel filter.
Old 06-16-02, 12:57 AM
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Ahhh I c, I though that he ment that he was gonna tune with it or something.
Old 06-16-02, 03:58 PM
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IMO:

Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
Old 06-16-02, 04:03 PM
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What is the best Fuel Pressure Gauge?
Old 06-16-02, 04:36 PM
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
IMO:

Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
You can always add a fuel pressure gauge to your setup. Make it sound like you bought the wrong turbo kit or sumthin.

A fuel pressure gauge measures one specific value, where as a a/f ratio gauge (assuming its provides a good enough resolution) provides an overall general view of your fuel AND air delivery systems.
Old 06-16-02, 07:00 PM
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I've always loved the Halmeters, very accurate too.

www.Halmeter.com
Old 06-16-02, 09:23 PM
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Originally posted by skunks
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
First, they all don't suck. Have you tried them all? Doubt it. The Motec wideband is great. It will run you about $1200. Motec will send you and extra bong so you can have it welded into you dp. When your not tuning you can just plug it off. Getting a wideband is actually less stress on your engine then the dyno anyways. This way your only tuning for A/F not hp. Take it from somebody that has a lot of experience at trying the hp game. It doesn't pay. Im even tuning my car with race gas on high boost with the wideband. Not even worried bout the hp numbers.
And as for dyno's for $30 an hr.??? Yea right, an average dyno tuning session will run you $150 an hr.
Good luck,
Ernie
Old 06-16-02, 10:22 PM
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There's a difference between a "dyno run" at Bobs Dyno and a "dyno tuning" at a good shop.
Old 06-16-02, 10:26 PM
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http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm

they make a wideband o2 sensor kit for pretty cheap, $400-500, you'll have a complete kit with display. they use the honda 5wire ntk sensor.
Old 06-17-02, 12:38 AM
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Skunks is right, they are "after the fact".

However, if you enjoy flashing lights and gizmos that don't mean a damn thing - buy one! The Motec is probably a good unit - but $1200? Fugghedaboudit.

A wideband sensor that can be calibrated is the only thing that works, and the only ones that are sensitive enough will be found at a good dyno shop. $30 bucks an hour? Hmmmmmmmm.. not anywhere in my 'hood.

Install a " dual cylinder head temperature gauge" at the base of your leading spark plugs to get a real handle on tuning. You can buy them at www.AircraftSpruce.com.
Cheap, effective and real time results WHILE you are driving. Easy to install.

The temperature of the METAL at "der sparking plug" is the only thing that really counts.
Old 06-17-02, 12:43 AM
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The Tomei one is pretty good. The fact that it is analog you can actually watch how fast it climbs. DON'T get the autometer one. I used to have that one..it's just flashing lights.
Old 06-17-02, 01:10 AM
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I think there is a bit of confusion about what exactly we are talking about. I'm talking about an ancillary guage for everyday a/f ratio monitoring purposes, and that is what I took the original thread starter to mean - not a wideband system for tuning purposes.

Since nobody is willing to dig around for what I am talking about, here is a direct link: http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm

The only thing that I disagree with gadgetseller's product description for their modified a/f gauges is that it can be used for tuning. I see it only as more useful information on the general health of your air/fuel delivery system.

As has been pointed out, all these 'regular' a/f gauges rely on the stock O2 sensor, and it simply does not compare in sensitivity to that in a wideband system meant for tuning purposes.
Old 06-17-02, 01:27 AM
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Yup, and here's my Health O Meter:
Old 06-17-02, 02:46 AM
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Originally posted by ErnieT

First, they all don't suck. Have you tried them all? Doubt it. The Motec wideband is great. It will run you about $1200. Motec will send you and extra bong so you can have it welded into you dp. When your not tuning you can just plug it off. Getting a wideband is actually less stress on your engine then the dyno anyways. This way your only tuning for A/F not hp. Take it from somebody that has a lot of experience at trying the hp game. an average dyno tuning session will run you $15It doesn't pay. Im even tuning my car with race gas on high boost with the wideband. Not even worried bout the hp numbers.
And as for dyno's for $30 an hr.??? Yea right, 0 an hr.
Good luck,
Ernie
I ment 30 bucks to use the lambda meter, not 30 bucks for the dyno session! Also, I still stick by what I said, they all do suck (the ones that run off the stock O2 sensor at least), stock O2 sensors do not have the resolution in order beable to tune, they just arn't made for this purpose. You can do what ever you want though, it is your car.

Good luck!

Last edited by skunks; 06-17-02 at 02:56 AM.
Old 06-17-02, 02:47 AM
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
IMO:

Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
I totally agree, thats something that you can actually use!
Old 06-17-02, 07:20 AM
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I retract my statement..

A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.

I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..

Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...

A/F gauge not bad afterall..
Old 06-17-02, 07:50 AM
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
I retract my statement..

A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.

I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..

Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...

A/F gauge not bad afterall..

Your o2 sensor probably just wasn't fully warmed up yet... they read lean before they are hot.

No standard O2 sensor is very valuable. Anyone who relies on one is asking for trouble.

My wideband will read anywhere from 10 to 13:1 a:f while my cheap standard o2 gauge will be reading full rich... by the time my cheap gauge indicates anything less than full rich, the car is stumbling around and it is obvious something is wrong. The sound and feel of my car is a better indicator of a:f than my standard o2 gauge. I don't even have it hooked up any more.

On the other hand, if you don't know the difference in sound/feel of rich misfire and lean knock, a cheap a:f gauge might help. I've never seen one "false" completely to the other side of the a:f spectrum.

Just don't rely on it for an accurage reading, a wideband lambda must be used.

Wade
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