A/F meter, Wich one should I buy???
#1
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A/F meter, Wich one should I buy???
Hi all!
Please recommend me a good air/fuel meter.
Wich one shoud I buy??? I am looking for a good
accurancy and ease of installation.
Thanks
Serge
Please recommend me a good air/fuel meter.
Wich one shoud I buy??? I am looking for a good
accurancy and ease of installation.
Thanks
Serge
#3
I'm a CF and poop smith
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
#4
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Originally posted by skunks
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
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#8
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
IMO:
Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
IMO:
Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
A fuel pressure gauge measures one specific value, where as a a/f ratio gauge (assuming its provides a good enough resolution) provides an overall general view of your fuel AND air delivery systems.
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Originally posted by skunks
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
They all suck and I think your gonna pop your engine using one, go to a dyno with a Lambda meter or buy a Motec (sp?) Lambda meter (its cost about a 1.3k though, the dyno problally cost about 30 bucks for an hour)
And as for dyno's for $30 an hr.??? Yea right, an average dyno tuning session will run you $150 an hr.
Good luck,
Ernie
#12
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http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm
they make a wideband o2 sensor kit for pretty cheap, $400-500, you'll have a complete kit with display. they use the honda 5wire ntk sensor.
they make a wideband o2 sensor kit for pretty cheap, $400-500, you'll have a complete kit with display. they use the honda 5wire ntk sensor.
#13
Blow up or win
Skunks is right, they are "after the fact".
However, if you enjoy flashing lights and gizmos that don't mean a damn thing - buy one! The Motec is probably a good unit - but $1200? Fugghedaboudit.
A wideband sensor that can be calibrated is the only thing that works, and the only ones that are sensitive enough will be found at a good dyno shop. $30 bucks an hour? Hmmmmmmmm.. not anywhere in my 'hood.
Install a " dual cylinder head temperature gauge" at the base of your leading spark plugs to get a real handle on tuning. You can buy them at www.AircraftSpruce.com.
Cheap, effective and real time results WHILE you are driving. Easy to install.
The temperature of the METAL at "der sparking plug" is the only thing that really counts.
However, if you enjoy flashing lights and gizmos that don't mean a damn thing - buy one! The Motec is probably a good unit - but $1200? Fugghedaboudit.
A wideband sensor that can be calibrated is the only thing that works, and the only ones that are sensitive enough will be found at a good dyno shop. $30 bucks an hour? Hmmmmmmmm.. not anywhere in my 'hood.
Install a " dual cylinder head temperature gauge" at the base of your leading spark plugs to get a real handle on tuning. You can buy them at www.AircraftSpruce.com.
Cheap, effective and real time results WHILE you are driving. Easy to install.
The temperature of the METAL at "der sparking plug" is the only thing that really counts.
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The Tomei one is pretty good. The fact that it is analog you can actually watch how fast it climbs. DON'T get the autometer one. I used to have that one..it's just flashing lights.
#15
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I think there is a bit of confusion about what exactly we are talking about. I'm talking about an ancillary guage for everyday a/f ratio monitoring purposes, and that is what I took the original thread starter to mean - not a wideband system for tuning purposes.
Since nobody is willing to dig around for what I am talking about, here is a direct link: http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm
The only thing that I disagree with gadgetseller's product description for their modified a/f gauges is that it can be used for tuning. I see it only as more useful information on the general health of your air/fuel delivery system.
As has been pointed out, all these 'regular' a/f gauges rely on the stock O2 sensor, and it simply does not compare in sensitivity to that in a wideband system meant for tuning purposes.
Since nobody is willing to dig around for what I am talking about, here is a direct link: http://www.gadgetseller.com/gauges/index.htm
The only thing that I disagree with gadgetseller's product description for their modified a/f gauges is that it can be used for tuning. I see it only as more useful information on the general health of your air/fuel delivery system.
As has been pointed out, all these 'regular' a/f gauges rely on the stock O2 sensor, and it simply does not compare in sensitivity to that in a wideband system meant for tuning purposes.
#17
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by ErnieT
First, they all don't suck. Have you tried them all? Doubt it. The Motec wideband is great. It will run you about $1200. Motec will send you and extra bong so you can have it welded into you dp. When your not tuning you can just plug it off. Getting a wideband is actually less stress on your engine then the dyno anyways. This way your only tuning for A/F not hp. Take it from somebody that has a lot of experience at trying the hp game. an average dyno tuning session will run you $15It doesn't pay. Im even tuning my car with race gas on high boost with the wideband. Not even worried bout the hp numbers.
And as for dyno's for $30 an hr.??? Yea right, 0 an hr.
Good luck,
Ernie
First, they all don't suck. Have you tried them all? Doubt it. The Motec wideband is great. It will run you about $1200. Motec will send you and extra bong so you can have it welded into you dp. When your not tuning you can just plug it off. Getting a wideband is actually less stress on your engine then the dyno anyways. This way your only tuning for A/F not hp. Take it from somebody that has a lot of experience at trying the hp game. an average dyno tuning session will run you $15It doesn't pay. Im even tuning my car with race gas on high boost with the wideband. Not even worried bout the hp numbers.
And as for dyno's for $30 an hr.??? Yea right, 0 an hr.
Good luck,
Ernie
Good luck!
Last edited by skunks; 06-17-02 at 02:56 AM.
#18
I'm a CF and poop smith
Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
IMO:
Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
IMO:
Don't get a A/F gauge..
I got one..
IF I could do it all over again.
I would get a FUEL Pressure gauge instead.
#19
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if it is such a shitty sensor why did the factory use it if it can handle 10psi out of the factory but yet it sucks no man dont get all crazy the sensor is some what decent as for tune'n you woluld never use it for real dirt down nitty gritty tune'n! an a/f meter is a good general idea of what is going on and that is the idea of it.
-Ryan
-Ryan
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I retract my statement..
A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.
I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..
Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...
A/F gauge not bad afterall..
A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.
I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..
Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...
A/F gauge not bad afterall..
#21
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Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
I retract my statement..
A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.
I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..
Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...
A/F gauge not bad afterall..
I retract my statement..
A/F gauge does have a use.
I found out last night.
I guess I spoke to soon.
Only had the a/f gauge for about
2 weeks..
Last night after a restart(after about 1hr )
i noticed my GF gauge reading lean or
in stoich. (usually reads Rich). I assuming
the car wasn't fully warmed back up yet.
After a couple minutes drive it went back to
"rich". And I thought to myself.. Hmmm
If I didn't have the gauge, I would of thought
everythign was "fine". And who knows what
would of happened if I felt Heavy Footed,
while it was in a lean condition...
A/F gauge not bad afterall..
Your o2 sensor probably just wasn't fully warmed up yet... they read lean before they are hot.
No standard O2 sensor is very valuable. Anyone who relies on one is asking for trouble.
My wideband will read anywhere from 10 to 13:1 a:f while my cheap standard o2 gauge will be reading full rich... by the time my cheap gauge indicates anything less than full rich, the car is stumbling around and it is obvious something is wrong. The sound and feel of my car is a better indicator of a:f than my standard o2 gauge. I don't even have it hooked up any more.
On the other hand, if you don't know the difference in sound/feel of rich misfire and lean knock, a cheap a:f gauge might help. I've never seen one "false" completely to the other side of the a:f spectrum.
Just don't rely on it for an accurage reading, a wideband lambda must be used.
Wade
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