quichedem

iTrader: (4)

While I'm still waiting for my car to be painted (It's about a month behind schedule!!), I'm trying to use the time to continue to plan ahead. I'd like to get input from everyone on 2 things:

1. My car came with no engine, so I need one. I was considering buying a running (compression-tested) long block. There are JDM engine importers, ebayers, and people on this forum who sell this, so I'd like to know where/who you guys would prefer to buy from, and why.

2. My car did come with a transmission, but I have no idea what shape it's in. I am planning on having a local shop rebuild it. Are there any preferred FD transmission "rebuild kits" and/or upgrades that anyone can recommend while this is being done? My hp goal is a modest 300 rwhp, so I'm assuming the stock transmission is strong enough for track day driving every so often.

Thanks in advance!

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

If I were you I would try to find a lower cost "blown" engine and have it rebuilt. Then you know what you have and are not depending on someones word that the engine you are buying is good.

I am curious on the transmission response as well.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

Any particular reason? If I went this route, I would certainly rebuild the engine myself. Other than getting the rotor seals right, this doesn't seem difficult. I'm thinking I might prefer getting a running engine just to jump start my build, run it 'til it blows, and rebuild it then. Is this a bad idea??

druggist

iTrader: (4)

I don't think its cost effective to rebuild a tranny. If you purchase a JDM long block, most of them come with one anyway. I would keep an eye on eBay for a long block, l check regulalry, and see some really clean ones. Dont pay more than $2000. One problem with the eBay sellers, when they do a compression test, they dont hold down the pressure release button nor remove the Schrader valve. This gives a false reading, try to explain it to them and they have no idea what you're talking about. But it's a crap shoot.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Your best bet is to purchase a complete jdm long block and trans, then have it rebuilt by a professional builder. Used motors are a crapshoot unless you have hard facts as to where it came from and what went into it Unless you have experience with rotaries, there are lot of things like seal clearancing, pressing bearings, proper installation of the oil control rings than can be easily messed up. If you have strong mechanical experience, you can probably do it if you follow the mazda fsm. If anything I would suggest planning out your power goals and use of the car, and contact a reputable builder of your choice to discuss it with them. Then decide if this is something you are comfortable taking on your own. A blown motor can be significantly more expensive to rebuild than one that is taken apart and freshened up before a seal breaks.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

For the transmission, there are no rebuild kits. Everything is ordered ala carte from Mazda.

Between the parts cost and labor hours, rebuilding the trans is usually not worth it. Get a newer JDM one from a trusted seller.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

If it ain't broke... don't fix it. Put in some yellow metal safe GL-4 gear oil (or whatever the kids are spending their loot on these days) and see how it does.

There are plenty of times I've rebuilt something when I should have just left it alone. You will have plenty of opportunities to fix things on this car. Don't burn yourself out on things that aren't broken.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

You guys are recommending finding "trusted sellers" of transmissions, but not giving me any names. Recommendations are a big part of my request. I'm a "do it right the first time" kind of person, so I'd hate to have the car all together, only to find out that the transmission is in crap shape. I'm thinking I'll have a local shop crack it open, see if it is in need of a rebuild, and give me a proper estimate to do so. If it's about $500-$700, I'll do it. If it's $1000 or more, I'll just send it to Petit as a core and get one of their rebuilt units. I'm after piece of mind here.
As far as engines, I feel confident enough to rebuild one, but I really don't want to get into that if I don't need to. That being said, I'd prefer to buy one off eBay or a JDM seller, rent someone's compression tester, and see for myself. If it's good to go, then it gets installed. If it has poor compression, then it's sent back to the seller for false advertising, if it's iffy, I open the keg myself and maybe refresh and only replace what's necessary. Again, I'm looking for reputable engine sellers, so I need names.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

The transmission isn't really the problem on these cars. You're putting your attention into the wrong part IMO. My transmission has a noisy input shaft and has since I bought it in 2005. It still works flawlessly. You can talk to a few parts guru's here on the forum, 1 is Fritz Flynn. Or post a wtb thread in the fs section.

The motor is what is unique on these cars. Give that a little more attention. As far as jdm swaps go, I had a buddy go thru a few of them even when the compression was adequate. He lost 2 jdm motors to coolant seals, then had it rebuilt. It cost him more in the long run. You have to remember, the motors usually only come with a 30 day warranty.

You can buy a motor used hear on the forum from someone trying to do a v8 or 20b swap and save some change. Again, post a wtb thread. At least you'll have some more accurate history on the motor. If you listen to most replies in this thread about rebuilding, there are plenty of threads on reputable shops for that.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Location would help us to tell you who to go to.

But I guess you are near or in Lousiana

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

I agree but my trans has the typical 4th-5th gear grind that annoys the hell out of me. What is this Yellow Metal Safe GL-4 gear oil?

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

Yes, in the New Orleans metro area.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Well, ebay has feedback ratings for sellers. This forum has trader score system and a good guy/bad guy subforum. Look through there and find someone that seems trustworthy, it will be pretty obvious who the preferred sellers are in your area. Beyond that I'm not really sure what you want us to do short of buying it for you.

The only weakness of these transmissions that I am aware of is the overdrive/5th synchro and the unhardened clutch fork breaking when combined with upgraded pressure plate.

My point is that you more than likely can throw the new engine in there, change the trans fluid, and be fine for the life of the engine. But... if you've got money to burn... Everyone does things a little differently.

I've personally never had that problem or missed a 3rd gear shift because I have homebrew polyurethane "subframe sandwich" mounts and virtually no engine movement.

The FSM specs GL-4 gear oil, maybe GL-5 too but I can't remember. Yellow metal safe means that the oil does not have a sulfur compound that will attack bushings and synchros.

I recently switched from valvoline 75w-90 gear oil to CRC Sta-Lube 80w-90 GL-4 because:
1. the CRC gear oil states it is yellow metal safe
2. I had really poor synchro performance with the valvoline in a cool trans

In my reading I have seen that many people feel most GL-5 oils are just fine even if they don't explicitly say they are yellow metal safe. I wanted to try the CRC oil and so far have been pleased with it for street use. It's available at NAPA btw.

Links:
Gear lube
http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articl...h/gearoil.html

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

The way I see it, if you use a standard compression tester you can't get an accurate max pressure reading unless you leave the valve in. You are effectively decreasing the compression ratio of the engine by adding the volume of the tube leading from the spark plug hole to the gauge. Therefore, to get maximum pressure you have to allow several compression events to occur before the gauge reads the actual pressure produced on any rotor face. If you take the valve out, the rotor has to compress not only the rotor housing but the tester hose and gauge each and every time. Leave it in and once it pressurizes the hose, the subsequent readings will be actual compression produced.

Removing or holding in the bleed schrader valve will then tell you if you are getting even compression on the faces, which is just as useful to know as max pressure.

The best way to do it is with a pressure sensor right at the spark plug hole a la Mazda or come up with a pressure tester that has negligible volume in the hose and gauge.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

When I'm ready, which I suspect will be fairly soon, I will be posting a WTB ad, and checking the feeback of the folks who reply
I appreciate everyone's suggestions and replies on this. Thanks!

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

To get accurate compression numbers the motor has to be at operating temperature and you need to use a rotary-specific tester. This isn't really possible with a jdm or used engine that is out of a car. People have rigged up a starter and bellhousing and gotten some kind of reading, but a cold compression number will generally be higher and will not show if the seal springs are fatigued. When they get hot they sag and the actual compression will be lower. You also will not be able to tell if the coolant seals are intact unless you buy a pressure tester like Pineapple and maybe a few other vendors sell. Despite all that there really is no way to tell if the oil control rings are good without running the motor.

That being said, expect to have to rebuild a jdm engine. If you get lucky you might also be able to find a complete working motor pull out from a working car that is getting a v8 swap or something. This may appeal to you because I'm betting you are missing many of the long block components needed for the motor.

As far as engine builders, there are plenty of them around. Most of us including myself can easily ship a motor around the country. I've shipped motors to Greece, Italy, and other countries as well.

The other option is is buy a junk motor and use it as a core to purchase a Mazda reman motor. Those run about $2900. they have all new seals and bearings. 99% of the time the rotor housings are new. Often they have new irons as well. When you start adding up the cost of parts and labor for a proper rebuild the Mazda reman motors are actually a very good deal if you have damaged rotors, housings, etc. You can either install the motor as is, or use it as a starting point for your build.

As far as the transmission, a full rebuild parts and labor will run you around $1000-1300 depending on where you go. All the seals, synchros, and bearings should be replaced. There is also an updated shift select spindle and 5th gear synchro that should be installed. The shift spindle will make the 2nd to 3rd shift more accurate and reduce the chance of missing 3rd gear, which will often break the 5th gear synchro. A used transmission can be had for $400-500 and is a much less risk than dealing with a used motor.

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

You should contact Jonathan at Gorilla Race Engineering in Kenner. Check out his web site or PM on here. He has a shop full of FD's and parts and can handle any engine or transmission work you need from mild to wild.

As was said before, transmissions are not a big issue with these cars for your desired power level. Most common problem is a bad 5th gear syncro, which is an easy fix no requiring a whole rebuild. If it's the input bearing everything has to come apart and the cost of parts makes buying used more attractive.

When Jonathan rebuilt my transmission back in 2007 or so, Ray at Malloy Mazda sent me the parts needed.

Jack

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

On my transmission, to do all the bearings and seals and synchros and replace all roll pins etc... was around $1200. And that's after I assembled the main gear stack myself.

On the bright side, I now understand exactly how a synchromesh transmission works.

quichedem

iTrader: (4)

This is VERY good to know. I figured I'd be hard-pressed to find anyone around here that could deal with these cars. Thanks!!

As far as the engine goes, I will take my time and investigate what's available when I'm ready to get it. I will be leaning more toward trusted sellers who know their engine's history (i.e.: it was in their car or they know the vehicle it was pulled from). I'd rather get a running engine for now, and maybe rebuild one while I'm using the running engine. Spares are a good idea, right?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

To do that, pull the shift housing and 5th gear housing and change the 5th synchro. Inspect 5th and reverse. Pull the lower cover on the main gear case - inspect the gears/synchros from below. Finally, you can pull the bellhousing and replace the two input shaft bearings. They always seem to wear out first and aren't hard to get to.

It's cracking into the main gear case that consumes a lot of time and money.