Zen007

I need some feed back on my up incomming project. My car blew a rear Apex seal so I must now either fork out 4500.00 to have shop swap my engine with a Mazda Reman engine or I can do it myself and spend 2500.00 on a reman engine (with 12 month warranty). I am assumiong it will take me a few weeks of working on it to do it. I have researched the whole process, and I don't mind the work. Basically has anyone done this and if so would you recommend saving the money and doing it myself or should I go with the mechanic? Please let me know my car is sitting at his shop.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

I've never done it myself, but multiple forum members have done it themselves and some didn't have any major mechanical experience. From what I gather, it's not that hard. I'm sure you may even be able to get some members in your area to help you out too.

c00lduke

As far as i know your not going to bbe getting a reman anytime soon with how backed up there are.

tt2323

Yeah i was gonna say the remans are on back order.

Rated R1

You know everybody says they are on backorder but a friend of mine (oakridgerx7) got one in a few days.

Zen007

I can get an engine in 2 weeks from Mazdarecycling.com and my mechanic told me he could have the mazda engine in5 days. I don't know if they are blowing smoke up my @#$ but If it is the concensus that it isn't that bad then perhaps I will just go for it. Basically saving 2K for other upgrades would be great, I just don't want to create more head aches by doing it. I am pretty mechanically inclined so doing the work isn't that big of a deal to me.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Zen007,

If you have the tools and the time, definitely do it yourself. There are a lot of things that you can/should replace or check which most mechanics won't care.

That money you'll save on labor will most likely go to replacing some aging components, so it won't be saved. However, you'll end up with a better car in the end.

Nico

Yeah engine removal and Re-Installation is very simple anyone with a bit or experience can attempt it and the shop manual is very good as shop manuals go, and there is a ton of help on this forum in the search archives if you get stuck.

You can get the whole job done in a weekend NP.

As your boy says you will end up changing a truck load of stuff, but it will be worth it.

Go single and its even easier, get shot of that mess of controll solenoids.

Best of luck

Nico

nopistons94

tools is the most important issue... i installed the motor with my dad and , if he didn't work at a body shop, we'd be buying about 500 dollars in tools needed to do the job correctly. Labour and man hours are the second hardest thing to do

HeatTreated

Next time Im paying the $800-900 to have someone Remove and Install. Im doing mine now, and I keep having to go get things (gaskets/washers, lubrication, replacement hoses, new bolts, etc..) And never have the time. Now Im doing the wiring and then re-attaching everything. Big thanks to those who have helped me with little questions (Mikey & RotaryExpirementSeven)

Surgemonster is also completing his I believe, Im sure he'd agree.

bee

If your worried about doing it yourself, buy the removal/installation video from RotaryAviation.com
Its very helpful, a picture is worth a 1000 words. Know what I mean.

mark1rx7

Im down to come and help...i also live in CT about 20 mins from milford. Pm me or email me at tavaresamerico@sbcglobal.net

alwan16

step by step instructions...almost

http://www.alexwan.com/rx-7/journal/012103/012103.html

'98 Type RS

iTrader: (1)

Go for it, just make sure you label EVERYTHING. My friend did it in a few weekends with no experience. He did have all the tools though.

speeddreamz

Ok, I have decided to do it. I can get a rebuilt motor for 2200.00 from Mazdarcycling.com and that includes the external gaskets. So I will be changing all tyhe vac lines to Silicone at the same time. I also think it is good time to flush the radiator. So my question for everyone that has done this is what extras did you run into that you had to buy, tools included. I have a pretty good tool selection but is there anything that is special to these cars? I am getting an engine stand adapter off of ebay for about $10 But that is all that I have fugured on. Also I want to go to the lowest temp Thermostat I can find. Anyway I have a lot to do to get ready. Mark1RX7 I just might take you up on the offer. I'll email you later. Thanks everyone. I'll keep posting during the sqwap if I have problems. Andalwan16 thanks for the link, it is very inlightening.

Zen007

Ok guys I have a question related to my Engine swap and I am looking for some sound advice. I have tried to research this but I have yet to find any concrete info. I found another engine being offered by a club member. It is a Jspec engine and comes fully dessed. The harness is cut and there is no ECU. Basically I know that I will need to retain my Manufold to get an EGR in plcae for emissions. Other than that it should be a straight swap......right? the engine is a little less than a reman but there is no core charge and it has everything still bolted to it (turbos, alt, waterpump, AC. The compression readings were said to be 110-110-110 front and 110-110-110 Rear. He also stated that it looks like it was rebuilt recently but could not garuntee it (marks on tension bolt?). I think I might buy it. What do you guys thing?

Rated R1

Make sure it is a REW and not an RE.

Zen007

Oh, it is definetly a 13B-REW. So think it will bolt in?

MichaelFregoe

iTrader: (1)

I live in New London CT and have swapped FD engines 4 times and FC engines about 6 times. I will be more than willing to asssit. Mike

Zen007

Ok guys, I know I am beating this to death but can anyone tell me what the differences are or what is required with JDM swap? I have tried the search function here at the forum and I have searched the net. I ordered a JDM 13B-REW to put in my 93 FD. I am told that the onlt difference is the intake manafold doesn't have a plce for the EGR and that otherwise it is a bolt in solution. Please tell me this is accurate. Also The compression was 110 on all six sides. Again a rotary mechanic told me this was good. is it? thanks for any help.

HobbeZ

I heard that there is really no big difference between a JDM engine and a US one.. however the JDM ones lack some of the emission items found on the US spec (cali models) like the EGR. Also newer JDM engines use a different ECU compared to the 93-95 ones? but from what I know the engine is basically the same.. haha feel free to correct me if i'm wrong