Engine out, diff off...what extra can be done?
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Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2018
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From: South FL
Engine out, diff off...what extra can be done?
So besides engine mounts and diff mounts.
*Engine mounts
*diff mounts and diff will be cleaned up from corrosion
*engine bay will be cleaned of all oil
* any other bushings that should be replaced now that would be much easier in current state?
*Engine mounts
*diff mounts and diff will be cleaned up from corrosion
*engine bay will be cleaned of all oil
* any other bushings that should be replaced now that would be much easier in current state?
Why is the engine and diff out of the car?
Really no other bushings that are easier to get to right now. Fuel filter is a cinch to get to with the diff out, though.
Not sure what you're looking for here.
Dale
Really no other bushings that are easier to get to right now. Fuel filter is a cinch to get to with the diff out, though.
Not sure what you're looking for here.
Dale
Replace all original rubber hoses (vacuum/fuel/water/oil). And don't use SAE fuel hose. It's slightly larger and will leak if you don't clamp it really tight. Also a good time to upgrade to dual oil coolers (OEM is fine if it's a street car). If you are still using the original solenoids/actuators, good time to test them (cold and hot). Also replace your FPD.
Assume you are talking internal, but getting more internal, replace all your oil seals (trans-eng, trans-DS, DS-diff, diff-axles). If you have a '93 clutch fork, replace with a '94. 5th gear sycnro? Shift select spindle. The list goes on....
Assume you are talking internal, but getting more internal, replace all your oil seals (trans-eng, trans-DS, DS-diff, diff-axles). If you have a '93 clutch fork, replace with a '94. 5th gear sycnro? Shift select spindle. The list goes on....
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
Replace all original rubber hoses (vacuum/fuel/water/oil). And don't use SAE fuel hose. It's slightly larger and will leak if you don't clamp it really tight. Also a good time to upgrade to dual oil coolers (OEM is fine if it's a street car). If you are still using the original solenoids/actuators, good time to test them (cold and hot). Also replace your FPD.
Fuel lines!! Good idea. Also the dual coolers are going to be attached with something other than zip ties from Pettit. A thermostat will be installed also.
Everything else is pretty much new.
* I should check on the charging harness I guess.
* fuel lines
Assume you are talking internal, but getting more internal, replace all your oil seals (trans-eng, trans-DS, DS-diff, diff-axles). If you have a '93 clutch fork, replace with a '94. 5th gear sycnro? Shift select spindle. The list goes on....
Fuel lines!! Good idea. Also the dual coolers are going to be attached with something other than zip ties from Pettit. A thermostat will be installed also.
Everything else is pretty much new.
* I should check on the charging harness I guess.
* fuel lines
Assume you are talking internal, but getting more internal, replace all your oil seals (trans-eng, trans-DS, DS-diff, diff-axles). If you have a '93 clutch fork, replace with a '94. 5th gear sycnro? Shift select spindle. The list goes on....
This was an auto converted to manual. I am sure Pettit used whatever fork was laying around. I will check it out.
The tranny is supposed to be rebuilt and supposedly has about 3k miles on it. Like this motor supposedly had about 5k on it....... she was shifting smooth and no issues with 5th or anything else (knock on wood)
looking for external right now.
I will definitely have the fuel filter repositioned!
Thanks Tom
Thread Starter
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From: South FL
She is getting a new motor and turbos. And the diff is coming off to change out the 3.90 for a 4.44. Just wanting to make sure I don't miss anything simple that I will regret later. Like fuel filter.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
just change the filter while its easy, its not like you need to do very often.
this is just a good time to check everything. how are the heater hoses? brake lines? brake pipes? fuel pipes? how are the shifter boots, radiator, cooling fans.
now is the time to touch up any engine bay paint, and or any of the brackets/stuff.
when i put a car like this together (i'm on the 3rd FC), i make sure all the bolts/fasteners are the correct ones, and then it takes forever, but i run a tap in as many holes as i can, and i use a torque wrench on as many fasteners as i can. it takes forever, but end result is worth it. for a torque spec i take the highest number in Mazda's spec and back it off a couple lbs ft
this is just a good time to check everything. how are the heater hoses? brake lines? brake pipes? fuel pipes? how are the shifter boots, radiator, cooling fans.
now is the time to touch up any engine bay paint, and or any of the brackets/stuff.
when i put a car like this together (i'm on the 3rd FC), i make sure all the bolts/fasteners are the correct ones, and then it takes forever, but i run a tap in as many holes as i can, and i use a torque wrench on as many fasteners as i can. it takes forever, but end result is worth it. for a torque spec i take the highest number in Mazda's spec and back it off a couple lbs ft
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I don't think anyone mentioned it yet, but this is a good time to replace the clutch and related parts. At a a minimum maybe the throwout bearing. Those always seem to be the first thing to wear out for me
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2018
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From: South FL
Thanks for the reply.... I will have it looked at, but they should only have about 2500 miles on them.
in my case I should probably double check though.
While the drivetrain is out, I'd add DEI floor and tunnel shield to the underside of the transmission tunnel. It really helps keep the heat out of the cabin.
https://www.designengineering.com/fl...e-heat-shield/
https://www.designengineering.com/fl...e-heat-shield/
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
While the drivetrain is out, I'd add DEI floor and tunnel shield to the underside of the transmission tunnel. It really helps keep the heat out of the cabin.
https://www.designengineering.com/fl...e-heat-shield/
https://www.designengineering.com/fl...e-heat-shield/
You'll want to degrease and clean the underside metal before trying to stick that stuff. This stuff from POR15 is the single best degreaser I have ever used.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 262
From: South FL
You'll want to degrease and clean the underside metal before trying to stick that stuff. This stuff from POR15 is the single best degreaser I have ever used.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Cleaner-Degreaser
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