duval7

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys heres the deal. My fd has been sitting in storage for a year and the money I was saving for a new engine I used to pay my boat off. So I still want to get the car running and I found a engine out of a running fd with 66k thats all stock, the guy is going the LS route. My questions is what should I do to the engine to make it last as long as possible and not spend to much. I was thinking pineapple heavy duty coolant seals cause they are usually the first to go and they aren't to expensive. What else should i do to keep the engine going for a while. Any ideas will be appreciated.

gio64

iTrader: (1)

Ceramic Apex seals?
Just an idea... Before I get flamed, I know they still break, but they don't wear and also wear the housings less (AFAIK).

baggedoutmazda

so this used engine is going to be rebuilt before you install it? why would this guy pull a ''PERFECT RUNNING'' engine to install a different engine, something wrong with the engine?

duval7

iTrader: (1)

yea its got 66k on it and i don't have the money to totally rebuild it. I just want to get my car running and build up my other engine in the mean time. I just want this engine to last as long as it can with just minor maintenance before i bolt it in. It came out of a good running car that is going v8.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Changing the coolant seals is a total rebuild.

If you aren't going to totally rebuild the motor (and I'm not suggesting you do), spend your money "around" the motor. Make sure everything else is updated:

* Replace all fuel lines (order the fuel recall kit from Malloy Mazda)
* Have your injectors cleaned and flow balanced
* Replace all coolant lines
* Replace water pump & thermostat
* Replace all vacuum lines
* New gaskets everywhere except the metal exhaust gaskets (just use a wire brush to clean those up)

I would suggest that you go ahead and reseal the oil pan before installing the used motor as well as replacing the rear main seal. Also, torque the engine studs before installing as well.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*New rear main seal
*FC thermoswitch
*New Fuel Pulsation Dampner or delete it (see how-to's) ----> http://www.banzai-racing.com/
*Consider a new clutch fork
*New pilot and throw-out bearings
*New rear seal on transmission

None of those things individually cost alot. Seals are only a few dollars. ALL are a PITA to change once the motor is installed.

duval7

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the input guys this helps alot. So should i go ahead and open the engine up and replace the coolant seals? how long does that usually take and can I just replace the coolant seals and leave everything else alone?

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

IMO, upgraded coolant seals are silly. Yes, the coolant jacket can leak, but that's because the iron channel itself corrodes and lets the seal fall out and break. I haven't heard or seen of a seal just breaking and leaking in a good groove.

I'm guessing you mean trans input shaft seal? We don't want this guy pulling the drive shaft for nothing.

I would never go through the trouble of putting in a used engine without taking it apart and spec'ing everything out/rebuilding it. If you throw a seal because it was abused and is nearing it's breaking point, you could end up taking out a turbine wheel. Then you'd wish you'd have done it right.

Even more ridiculous would be to do the coolant seals and not replace the hard seals/springs as needed or replace the oil control o-rings. That and spec out the irons, bearings, and housings.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Replaceing the coolant seals take the same amount of time as it does to rebuild the engine. Everything still needs to be cleaned and inspected.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

No, I meant rear transmission seal....since many pull the motor with it attached. If he pulls just the motor then it would be unnecessary.