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-   -   engine maintenance ideas (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/engine-maintenance-ideas-795412/)

duval7 10-21-08 08:51 PM

engine maintenance ideas
 
Ok guys heres the deal. My fd has been sitting in storage for a year and the money I was saving for a new engine I used to pay my boat off. So I still want to get the car running and I found a engine out of a running fd with 66k thats all stock, the guy is going the LS route. My questions is what should I do to the engine to make it last as long as possible and not spend to much. I was thinking pineapple heavy duty coolant seals cause they are usually the first to go and they aren't to expensive. What else should i do to keep the engine going for a while. Any ideas will be appreciated.

gio64 10-21-08 09:11 PM

Ceramic Apex seals?
Just an idea... Before I get flamed, I know they still break, but they don't wear and also wear the housings less (AFAIK).

baggedoutmazda 10-21-08 09:11 PM

so this used engine is going to be rebuilt before you install it? why would this guy pull a ''PERFECT RUNNING'' engine to install a different engine, something wrong with the engine?

duval7 10-22-08 07:43 AM

yea its got 66k on it and i don't have the money to totally rebuild it. I just want to get my car running and build up my other engine in the mean time. I just want this engine to last as long as it can with just minor maintenance before i bolt it in. It came out of a good running car that is going v8.

Mahjik 10-22-08 07:51 AM


Originally Posted by duval7 (Post 8658804)
yea its got 66k on it and i don't have the money to totally rebuild it.

Changing the coolant seals is a total rebuild.

If you aren't going to totally rebuild the motor (and I'm not suggesting you do), spend your money "around" the motor. Make sure everything else is updated:

* Replace all fuel lines (order the fuel recall kit from Malloy Mazda)
* Have your injectors cleaned and flow balanced
* Replace all coolant lines
* Replace water pump & thermostat
* Replace all vacuum lines
* New gaskets everywhere except the metal exhaust gaskets (just use a wire brush to clean those up)

I would suggest that you go ahead and reseal the oil pan before installing the used motor as well as replacing the rear main seal. Also, torque the engine studs before installing as well.

Sgtblue 10-22-08 10:09 AM

*New rear main seal
*FC thermoswitch
*New Fuel Pulsation Dampner or delete it (see how-to's) ----> http://www.banzai-racing.com/
*Consider a new clutch fork
*New pilot and throw-out bearings
*New rear seal on transmission

None of those things individually cost alot. Seals are only a few dollars. ALL are a PITA to change once the motor is installed.

duval7 10-22-08 06:57 PM

thanks for the input guys this helps alot. So should i go ahead and open the engine up and replace the coolant seals? how long does that usually take and can I just replace the coolant seals and leave everything else alone?

alexdimen 10-22-08 07:15 PM

IMO, upgraded coolant seals are silly. Yes, the coolant jacket can leak, but that's because the iron channel itself corrodes and lets the seal fall out and break. I haven't heard or seen of a seal just breaking and leaking in a good groove.


Originally Posted by Sgtblue (Post 8659031)
*New rear seal on transmission

I'm guessing you mean trans input shaft seal? We don't want this guy pulling the drive shaft for nothing. :)


Originally Posted by duval7 (Post 8660583)
thanks for the input guys this helps alot. So should i go ahead and open the engine up and replace the coolant seals? how long does that usually take and can I just replace the coolant seals and leave everything else alone?

I would never go through the trouble of putting in a used engine without taking it apart and spec'ing everything out/rebuilding it. If you throw a seal because it was abused and is nearing it's breaking point, you could end up taking out a turbine wheel. Then you'd wish you'd have done it right.

Even more ridiculous would be to do the coolant seals and not replace the hard seals/springs as needed or replace the oil control o-rings. That and spec out the irons, bearings, and housings.

Banzai-Racing 10-23-08 05:07 AM

Replaceing the coolant seals take the same amount of time as it does to rebuild the engine. Everything still needs to be cleaned and inspected.

Sgtblue 10-23-08 07:33 AM


Originally Posted by alexdimen (Post 8660640)
......I'm guessing you mean trans input shaft seal? We don't want this guy pulling the drive shaft for nothing. :)

No, I meant rear transmission seal....since many pull the motor with it attached. If he pulls just the motor then it would be unnecessary.


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