Hi all and thanks in advance for any help.
Long story short, I pulled the engine as i had to change the oil pump.
I replaced the engine harness with a new OEM one.
I replaced the whole thermostat housing and turbo tank with a new one
new plugs
new solenoid bank
replaced a lot of the hoses I couldn't get to when i got the car as well.
I did a Oil metering delete
Put an oversize Odula Throttle body on

Now everything is back in and it started straight up after a few second and idles like a champion.
I can give it light revs but as soon as I went to drive and give it some throttle it died in the a$$.
even trying to WOT it literally dies.

It has vacuum
I put the old turbo solenoid bank back in, same
I put the old TB back on, same
I spent hours with the color diagram tracing Vac routing to the solenoid bank. I even had my Vac pump to to check the vac pipes start and finish
I thought I may have had plugs for the secondary injectors a$$ about but they are correct as the loom is marked with white tape, as is the matching Primary.
I put vacuum on the valve on the Y pipe and it operates, as does the one on the intake manifold.

I have not yet put a pressure gauge on the return fuel line to check if the fuel pump has died or maybe the fuel reg
The turbo's didn't come off when engine was out
I did out of habit check the coils with a multi meter
I have not yet checked the coil leads but it runs absolutely fine of idle and light revving.
I did put 50mls per 20lt of premix in and I did purge the fuel lines
I'm pretty confident the 3 fuel line are on the right way, first towards the front of car is fuel in, middle is breather, 3rd is the return line which also comes off the fuel reg with the vac line on it.
The lower manifold never came off.
when I drove it I think it sounded like it may have been venting via waste gate but not 100% sure, both turbo actuators look like they are ok and vac hoses look ok. They have been changed with new OEM

I have tried searching
Just mentally exhausted and after some fresh perspectives and or some other things to check.
Car doesn't overheat, fresh coolant and oil

2002 Bathurst R no porting and stock original engine which run fine before

 

What effect will not having the restrictors in the turbo actuator line have.
I'm not sure if I replaced those lines and if I did I wouldnt have taken the restrictos out of the old hose.
I know some of those hoses were not available any longer and I used OEM mazda hose

 

stock ecu? its not going to like the OMP delete and thatll throw it into limp mode

 

Theres no restrictors in the lines for the N3G1 Turbos. The restrictor is built into the pipe coming off the pack

 

It is the stock ECU
I dont have a check engine light.
I have a Power FC that I can probably reset and pop in for testing purposes ( In saying that the car literally doesnt drive and dies, limp mode should at least let you drive ? Never experienced limp mode

Maybe I can plug the OMP back in as A test I suppose

Thank God they dont have restrictor pills, I just pulled the pipes off and I did change in new hoses

 

Limp mode in a late car will let you drive if you feather the throttle. Anything above approx 40 percent throttle and youll feel it hesitate and pull back, You wont get any lights as these cars dont have a CEL. Itll drive fine on an Apexi Power FC as it doesnt have safety features like limp mode

 

The ecu just needs to see an OMP plugged in ? I may put everything back together again and try plugging the OMP in.
If thats the fix it may fast track the PFC install.

How did I not think the OMP delete wouldnt effect anything.
I'll try this now

Thank You

 

Im not certain just plugging it in will do the trick. I dont know if the ecu sees feedback from the motor spinning, it probably does as it detects OMP faults

 

You Sir are a LEGEND!!
Just plugging the OMP in seems to have done the trick.
I still need to tidy up a few things but it is back running on boost.

Thank You so much for you time and help