Here is where i am at with the car right now.

-I am getting spark, new plugs and MSD 6a
-all sensors are connected
--no vacuum leaks larger than perhaps a pinhole
-am getting almost 5psi Vacuum pressure while cranking
-compression is even, but low thanks to rebuild and flooding
-gas light is on, but gauge shows near full but should have half tank....
-should be sending fuel....i think its pressure related...

So, could it be the timing is off? if so how do i goes about fiddling with that? the CAS has that nut on it that moves in a curved slit. does it need to be centered in there? because mine is off to the right a bit.

Does it matter what vac line i use to get the vac to go to the FPR? also, would it effect it if the line it "T"ed the act. valve soleniod line

I am almost out of ideas at this point. she just will not start on he own. has to be fuel related. because shell run off ether no problem. And the exhaust doesnt smell like fuel like normal when its really flooded. any ideas? i spent literally 10 hours today cranking, adding MMO, cranking, trying to start. etc etc etc to no avail. getting a bit fustrated....

 

any one?

 

is there a way cheap method to tell if the MAF sensor is malfunctioning?

 

Ok, check to make sure that your fuel pump IS pumping fuel up to the fuel line. Secondly, did I understand you correctly to say that you t'd off of a part of the old emissions lines to the FPR?

 

what i have now is the vac line t'ed from the nipple on the uim that is on near where the BAC would be. the little sucker. the t is with the Air bypass valve.

i know its getting fuel, i can smell it in the engine bay.

 

but is it flooding ? I been having an intermittent no start and Wayne and myself have troubleshot this thing for three years.....maybe I can be of more help, but we would probably need to talk on the phone as there is too much information...gimme a shout on Pvt Message if you want and I will give you my number...I have unlimited long distance and of you don't I would call you....

 

OOppps...meant to subscribe to the thread...

 

I dont want to insult your intelligence, but did you clear it from possibly being flooded? You know...pulling the egi fuse, cranking for 10 seconds, etc?

I had this problem too, turned out to be a low fuel pressure problem from a clogged line.

 

pore a few ouncez of fule into the elbo and light throttle crank that will let u know if your not getting fule. The only things that will efect a engin from not starting are spark, fule, compreshion. Check your timing for proper sparking. Align the yellow mark on the drive pully to the marking pin. Pull the CAS, align the dimple with the line and insert without turning it. Now crank her up.

 

i am going to try to CAS thing. it was loose and moving when i got the car. it ran off ether yesterday, but not well or very long, but that was also before i fixed my FPR problem. i need another solid day at it (ie tm)

the flooded deal isnt the only problem but it is a pain to continually pull the plugs, ,fuses and crank off and on for 15 minutes (being positive that its not flooded after i mess with something)

 

oh crap. here is a thought. i wonder if the primaries i got (550) are actaully high impedance injectors on a low impedance circuit...can that do it?

 

okay so, i have the injectors wired correctly now, the timing set, getting spark and my TPS is dead on.

now it will start but immediately die. im thinking AFM, ECU or fuel pressure related....how can i check these components?

 

Do you have enugh gas in the tank?
Use a FP guage if its pumping fule your getting enugh to idle
DO you have a spare afm? not realy sure how to check it sorry.
I doubt its the computer

 

okay so i took off the bolt at the end of the secondary fuel rail....no fuel at all. dry. doesnt even smell. took off the bolt on the primary rail. wet but no fuel came out. empty...hmm....

so i checked to see if my pump was doing something. well it wasnt pumping. check the voltage. 12v. good. EGI relay. good here too. now, my empty light has been on forever, the gas gauge reads full yet i have had a half tank. i filled the tank up too.

so i changed out pumps to see if that was the problem. nope. so its the sending unit. sourcing a used one now. Dealer wants 410 dollars for a pump and unit assembly. which is WAY more than i plan to send to fix this problem. but hopefully. she will fire up after i replace this.

 

I take it you have not bench tested the pump or the sending unit. I would realy do this and see if you can fix it or tell where the prob is at exsactly.

 

i know the pumps are good. they worked on other 7's just not this one. how the hell could you fix a sending unit? there is just the little white box and the floater. the sending unit is flat out not sending power to the pump.

 

You said you were getting power to it. Posibly could be a connection or bad wire to it. If its the unit then replace the damn thing. But why on earth replace something untill you have tested it and tryd to solve it.

 

the pump works. that is not the problem. i have check the wires on unit for contiouity. going into the white thing, im getting singal. to the pump. nada. cant really fix the inbetween. i can get one used from a local 7 guy for a cheap price so just replaceing the thing is the best choice.

 

Yea! Koolaid!

 

If the pump works, but you have no fuel at the rail, did you make sure the fuel lines are on the right nipples at the metal lines on top of the engine?

How's the fuel filter? Some designs can't be installed backwards- they have a check valve in them...

 

its an earls fuel filter, new, but i didnt even think about direction...although it is leaking after the connection. but the pump isnt running anyhow. there is power going into the sender, but the pump itself is not running. at all.

 

one other concern is im building up to 40 or more PSI in oil press after cranking for extended periods. is that right?i mnean its slow going to get there. but i didnt think it should reach that high of press....