Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

I just finished removing all unnecessary emissions wires and rewrapping my engine harness. I know I had a lot of questions before starting so I'll post helpful tips.

Before removing the harness from your engine you should mark all the connectors that on the harness and know which ones you are not using or are not needed.

If you are removing all the emissions but keeping the IAC, make sure to reground the IAC ground wire... when you remove the solenoid rat's nest connectors, the IAC ground gets cut since it piggy backs.

I rewrapped the harness using three layers, so it was a bit of an overkill.

The first layer I used self-fusing silicone tape http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KJM79O
This tape is good for up to 500F and is resistant to chemicals - perfect.

Then, I used high temp nylon wire loom, which is good for a continuous 257F and a max temp of 347F. The best deal if could find is an assortment on ebay. Most businesses just sell rolls of one size so the assortment was very helpful.

Lastly, I used some electrical tape over the nylon wire loom.

I also plan on getting some reflective tape to go over the section that passes close to the exhaust.



Final product:

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for posting. Pretty much what I did. The self-fusing tape is pretty nice. The only thing I'd suggest is double-checking continuity from the ECU plug to the connectors that you end up keeping.

ksu-chewie

iTrader: (14)

good work, nice and clean.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the electrical tape is worthless, over the years the best product i have found for harnesses is friction tape, although not always easy to find. it works well at protecting against heat and is self sealing to weatherproof the harness from many types of fluid.

i have used the friction tape on many rebuilds and even performance builds which generate a lot of heat in the engine bay.

i'm sure the other layers will protect the harness just fine but eventually the electrical tape will unravel as most really are not designed for even moderate heat, the glue melts and generally just makes a mess of the once pretty harness.

Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

I'd have to kindly disagree with the electrical tape being anymore worthless than friction tape. I used 3M Super 33+ electrical tape, which is rated to 221F continuous heat and is chemical resistant as well as flame retardant . All the friction tape i've looked up had a max temp rating of 176F.

Also, the electrical tape is there to hold everything together and not to protect the wires. The self sealing tape is there to seal and protect the wires and the high temp wire loom is there to further protect the wires from heat.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Although this wire may be B/W (black with a white stripe), it carries +12V power from the EGI main relay. Don't make the mistake of connecting it to the engine block, that would make for a bad day.

GodSquadMandrake

That's been my experience too. Usually when I redo a harness I just try to use automotive grade wires that have the proper insulation and the nice waterproof GM connectors. The electrical tape is just worthless. Lately I've been using plasti-dip to seal connections and splices instead of electrical tape. It makes a waterproof seal and is tough enough to be used on wheels.



I just try to focus on the connections instead of the wires themselves because that's where I see them fail. Especially the grounds and power.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

After generously overlapping the self-fusing silicone (good to 500 F) , I didn't think it made alot of difference what went over it. I figured the second layer wasn't there so much for insulation but to keep things from abraiding the silicone.

Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for bringing that up. That actually makes sense because that thick B/W wire never joins up with grounds anywhere in the harness. I just routed the IAC B/W wire back into the splice where the old solenoid connectors ran.

Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

Has anyone had exp with super 33+ tape? It's not regular electrical tape and is rated for much higher temps than friction tape (221F vs 176F). I've seen several senior board members post that they used it for their engine harnesses on this forum, but I do not have personal exp with it myself, but from the specs it looks promising. BTW, regular electrical tape is rated to 176F vs the super 33+ which is 221F.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the rating doesn't always mean much.

the tape may be rated at 500F but the sealant starts to break down at half that rating.
the friction tape in your rating example has held up fine even only a few inches away from a cooking turbo snail for several years.

now add a little oil to most electrical tape and it turns to a gooey unraveled mess.

Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

So since you're talking about the silicone tape and not the electrical tape, its a whole different story. This is silicone tape which was designed for aircraft use on the F-4 (http://www.f4tape.com/ read about it) and silicone is the same stuff that you use on gaskets for your RX7... you're telling me some 176F friction tape is better?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

no, i'm telling you that you shouldn't rely just on what you read but on what you experience. i never mentioned that the silicone tape was a bad idea or won't work, just that in my experience it is going to look like *** in less than a year because all the electrical tape i have attempted to use never holds up to the expectations that the manufacturer lists. also that the friction tape that i have used has held up perfectly in 300*F conditions..

i simply meant that i used to cover my harnesses in electrical tape of varying types and listed expectations and they always came apart in this environment so i looked for alternates and found one which i just used as a recommendation for longevity of a professional looking harness which i now use as standard in most every engine R+R.

Net Seven

iTrader: (5)

Cool. I'll probably go with friction tape on the top layer next time. Do you use just any friction tape you can find or a certain type?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the type i use is commonly found at ACE hardware or Orchard supply hardware on the west coast. it has a tacky feel to it, like tar paper, as i don't have a roll with a label for a part# or manufacturer at the moment until i restock.

Turbo II FC

iTrader: (14)

I was researching wrapping my new factory harness for my build and found this thread. Karack, is this the same tape you use?
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1285885
So you basically just rewrap everything with this friction tape and have had great results? Do you put any additional wrapping over the friction tape and if you do what kind? I want to make this $800 harness last as long as I can. TIA.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Anyone use DEI fire tape? The silver reflective stuff.

FallonRacingInc

electric tape sucks... gets all gooey.