hey guys, I have a completely stock '95 that was running great. A few weeks ago I converted to simplified sequential and just the other day I decided to replace all vac hoses with silicone and install Viton check valves. I just finished with all the silicone, put the uim back on, connected all hoses and electrical, went to fire it up and it just cranked with no start. The dash lights came on when I hit the key just like normal.

I thought maybe the car got flooded somehow so I pulled the EGI fuse and cranked for 15 sec with gas pedal down, put the fuse back in and tried to crank with no gas pedal. I repeated that a couple times and nothing improved.

I took the uim back off and double checked all electrical connections, everything looked good. Put it all back together now the engine cranks and I get no dash lights at all when I hit the key. I tried to search this problem and couldn't really find much. I haven't checked for spark or fuel yet because the car was running fine when I pulled it in I don't see how any of those things could go haywire just from replacing vacuum lines.

The only thing I can think of right now is the car got flooded somehow, or I sucked a rag into the turbo intake or y-pipe. would a sucked up rag cause a no start situation? Still wouldn't explain why I have no dash lights now...man I'm confused, any suggestions are welcome.

 

Does the tach bounce when it cranks?

 

Check the following grounds... The one by the upper manifold, the one under the coils, the one by the cat back and Catalytic.

 

the tach doesn't bounce when cranking. What does it mean?

I'll have to check out my grounds. The only one I disconnected was the uim ground, it was under the back nut for the uim, idk if that's the right spot but that's where it was hooked up at.

 

What about the one above it? There is one that attaches to the chassis above the upper manifold. If it's not the grounds... Make sure the plug wires are fully pushed in and in the right firing order. Also make sure the coil harness is in the right order. The harness for the coils should have a white black and blue connector and that's the order from left to right. The wires should be as follows left coil to top left spark plugs middle coil top to bottom left spark plug middle coil bottom to bottom right spark plug and last coil closest to the oil filter top right spark plug wire

 

The tach is not bouncing cuz there is no power... That ground on the back of the upper manifold is the oem location. It could also be ur battery and or fuses. Check them all by the engine bay and inside the drivers side rest pedal

 

I'll be heading back out to the garage after I get the heat going and I get some coffee in me to continue the battle. You FL guys are lucky, 25 deg. F puts a damper on garage work haha.

Thanks for the suggestions Peruvianrx7, I will check out everything you listed. Remember that the car was running fine and all I did was take off the UIM, replace some vacuum lines, then put the UIM back on. The coils and spark plug wires were never touched. The battery connections are good and tight and the car cranks strong. The little black connector that connects to the metal tab above the UIM ground is plugged in and looks clean.

The only scenarios that make sense right now are...

1. I damaged the EGI fuse somehow when I pulled it

2. I really have a bad feeling that I forgot a rag in the secondary turbo intake or the y-pipe

3. CAS?

4. maybe I got a little aggressive with the (injector) wires in the rats nest?

 

Just checked the fuse box that connects to the positive battery cable. My 120a main fuse is blown. Can I get a fuse like this at the auto parts store? I don't even know what a fuse like this is called.

 

If u think u put a rag in remove the y pipe and double check.
The third gen has no CAS

It's called a 120a fuse...
Go to advance auto parts
U need to remove 1 or 2 screws from each side. The question is how did you blow it?

 

Make sure u look at the fuses on the interior next to the drivers side dead pedal

 

120A fuses should be available at any respectable auto parts store, however, I recommend you buy online as stores force you to buy them in packs with other fuses you do not need, you can buy a single fuse online.

As for how the fuse was blown, it is hard to say, it does not take much to blow one. I would recommend disconnecting the negative connection on your battery when doing any work on the electrical system, that way there is no power running through the system and no chance to blow a fuse.

 

Solved. Turns out I'm a dumbass. Invited a buddy over to help me tear into it and he found the problem in the first 10 seconds. There was a blue plug that goes into the throttle body that was hidden behind the oil filter. Plugged it in and the car started right up. Thanks guys.

 

Was it the tps plug?

 

yep..the wire is so long it just kind of falls down between the firewall and bell housing. rookie mistake haha