OriginalFake2

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so I'll cut to the point.

Installing a Efini Y-Pipe on a RHD car is completely different than a LHD, our brake booster and complete system is on the opposite side of the engine bay. I can't even get the rear hard intake S Pipe off, even though I already disconnected the bottom 2 and top 10mm nuts. I got the original Y pipe partially off the manifold, but now it's stuck to the rear pipe and won't budge. I removed the air pump, and a ton of stuff and there's just too much clutter back there.

My next step is to take a rubber mallet to beat the old Y pipe back into place and just wait until I get all my exhaust parts in to do everything at once.

korea_senpai

iTrader: (25)

No, don't start banging just yet, I also have a RHD and I feel your pain, do you still have your ACV? Either way You will have to get an extension for your ratchet to reach the top nut on the rear part of the y-pipe leading into the rear turbo and to get the bottom one you will have to get under the car and reach up past the downpipe to get the bottom one. It can be done but you need someone to hold the s pipe while you get your ratchet to that top nut first. Hope this helps, I did it all by myself, but to cut down on some frustration get an extra pair of hands.

Bin

Specter328

iTrader: (2)

When I replaced my Y-Pipe I simply removed the studs on the front turbo the front half slid right out.

floatyghosthat

iTrader: (5)

the first time I did it, I removed the brake booster and pushed it out of the way.

The second time I did it, I just fought with the pipe and twisted and bent it until I could pull it out the top.

The third time I did it... I went to a single and threw that damn pipe away.

korea_senpai

iTrader: (25)

If you are careful do this, try not to ruin the studs or at least have something to rethread them if you go this route.

OriginalFake2

iTrader: (3)

It seemed like damn near impossible when I was doing it, Also I was working under jack stands which makes it really hard to get any arm room. I also have to install my Downpipe when it comes in, so I'm just planning to do that at the same time.

Are you guys just saying to remove the entire brake booster? Because I'm not trying the same way again as last time. I'll be using a lift this time.

OriginalFake2

iTrader: (3)

I'm going to try to remove the brake booster next time around.

If I fought with the pipe anymore, it seemed as if something would definitely break really soon

I would go single, but there are no trusted rotary tuners here...so I'm using a flashed Knight Sports ECU. it sucks.

floatyghosthat

iTrader: (5)

Haha, no tuners out here either. I haven`t figured what I`m going to do about that yet...

For me, it was 2 nuts I had to remove from under the dash at the back of the clutch. It was a pain in the ***, but once they were off I just pulled it away from the firewall and it gave me enough room to get the pipe out. I still had to fight with it quite a bit though.

OriginalFake2

iTrader: (3)

Ok, time for me to give it another shot since i have time to do so again, I also got my Trust downpipe in the mail too, so I'm going to install that as well at the same time.

Are you able to take a picture of the 2 nuts under the dash?

I can't believe it's this hard..

KFC3S

it's a real ***** of a pipe, I was removing mine whilst doing an engine pull and ended up just waiting till the engine was out hah.

if you remove the brake booster heatshield you get a little bit more leeway.