areXseven

iTrader: (1)

I got the car started this afternoon after doing the Injectors and Rat's Nest w/silicon vacuum hose install. The car hadn't been started in 14 months.

Idle was a little rough at first but quickly calmed down as soon as it warmed-up. Idle was a little high (1350rpm) but I know that can be cured by adjusting the throttle cable. Overall, the entire install was successful. No fuel or boost leaks to report. The engine sounded very good.

Anyway, I let the car warm up for about 15 minutes and then I turned it off.

When I tried to restart it about 5 minutes later, the engine wouldn't crank. It's as if the battery is completely dead, ...but it's not. Actually, something is definitely wrong as the rear brake lights are constantly on. This is occurring without applying pressure to the brake pedal. Of course, when I take the ground cable off the battery, the rear lights turn off. As soon as I connect the ground cable, the lights turn on. Weird!

What would cause the Engine not to crank?. I tried boosting it with another car, but it doesn't crank. I tried resetting the ECU, but no luck.

Anyone ever have a problem like this?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'm assuming when you say "no crank" that you turn the key, the motor does nothing.

This is NOT an ECU problem. The starter circuit is VERY simple - it goes from the ignition switch through the clutch switch and starter interrupt, to the starter. If those paths are open, the car will crank over.

The brake lights are also a VERY simple circuit. There's a switch on the brake pedal - push down on the brake pedal, the lights go on. Nothing else is involved.

I'd look up under the dash at the clutch switch and brake light switch - that could be something wrong there.

Dale

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dale. Very sound advise!

I spent a few hours last night searching the Forum for anything that came close to addressing my issues and all indications pointed to the exact issues you've mentioned. BTW, mine is an automatic.

I already bought the Brake Light Switch from the local Mazda dealer this morning. Haven't had time to do the install yet. I'm sure that will fix the problem.

As for my no "turn key- no crank" situation, I'll lift the car this evening and check for loose cable connections on the Starter and Solenoid. If connections are good, I'll disengage the cable(s) and clean the connections anyway. I'm hopeful that will fix that problem as well.

I'll report back with an update.

- Jimmy

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Brake Light problem solved.

Now I need to confirm the amount of connections on the Starter Solenoid. I have a large Cable connected (13mm nut) in the center of the Solenoid and a small red snap-on connector on the top of the Solenoid.

There is another Black snap type connector that's just dangling and not connected to the Solenoid. It seems as if the terminal has broken off the Solenoid.

Should there be 3 connections on the Solenoid or just two?

fd3rew

iTrader: (1)

your sig. says it is an automatic...if that is the case it could be your neutral safety switch....did you try to start the car in neutral....or try to start the car at different shifter position. If could just be a bad switch or a switch out of adjustment. Try starting it in reverse, neutral, drive, etc......

If your car is a manual, it could very likely be a clutch switch.

You should check the voltage at the starter and starter solenoid before dumping money on a swich you may or maynot need.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

As you suggested, I tried starting with Tranny engaged in all shifter positions. No Crank/Start.

Decided to take the Starter out,...what a PITA. Had to disassemble the Starter body from the Bracket (two long 10mm bolts) in order to take it out in two pieces from underneath the opening in the Frame. The bracket itself has 3-12mm bolts and 1-12mm nut holding everything to the Tranny.

I reassembled the Starter body to the bracket (Solenoid already attached) and had it checked. Everything worked great!

Guess it's time to buy a Voltmeter...

I'm thinking either:

- Bad cable(s)
- Improper ground
- Neutral Safety Switch (Inhibitor Switch)
- Ignition Switch

fd3rew

iTrader: (1)

If you have an aftermarket alarm system, check the starter kill relay, it could be stuck in the open position........just another possibility.....

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

Problem not completely ruled-out. I checked the voltage to the Solenoid and only got 3 volts so I decided to connect (touch) a wire directly from the Battery to the Solenoid "S terminal" and ...presto,..tthe Starter engaged.

So it's pretty obvious that the problem is either the Ignition Switch or the Inhibitor Switch.

So after spending a little time searching and consulting with bajaman, I installed a Push Button Start and that solved my problem! THANKS Greg!

Thanks to all that took the time to offer assistance and guidance. Your efforts were much appreciated.

- Jimmy