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Old 02-17-07, 08:16 PM
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Question Urgent!!! Need Help

I have a 94 twin turbo I'm working on ,swaped out old turbos for lower mile turbos, got it running just a few hours ago but when I give it gas the car starts, to me its like its choking. all the vacuum lines seem to be in order, on idle runs fine 900-950 rpm.until u give it give it gas and let off the idle goes up to 1100-1200 then and starts to choke, drops back down after awhile then idles back to normal. I cant figure out why could it be the TPS? please help. the water temps are fine, dont see any loose lines and they are new lines so I dont believe its a vacuum leak. the oil pressure is also good
Old 02-17-07, 08:47 PM
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Did you change the TPS position or remove it when you changed out the turbos ?
Old 02-17-07, 08:51 PM
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Have you tried driving the car? What exactly do you mean by 'choke?' What kind of vacuum? does the exhaust note sound ok at idle?
Old 02-17-07, 08:52 PM
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no I did not remove anything. other than a few vacuum lines, which I numbered so I dont mix them up and the o2 sensor is all I removed
Old 02-17-07, 08:58 PM
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yes I have driven the car thats when I noticed the problem when I put it in first it, and it tries to die out, but it doesnt. NO i'm not granny shifting I know how to double clutch.just in case.
Old 02-17-07, 09:14 PM
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Since you didn't adjust the TPS or remove it why would you suspect the TPS ?. Have you downloaded the vacuum diagram so you have something to check your routing against to insure it's correct ? If it was running ok before the turbo swap it should still run without the symptoms you describe even if the new turbos are bad. It would just be down on power, seems like you got something hooked up incorrectly. What all did you take off the car to remove the turbos ? Just trying to get an idea of where to check.
Old 02-17-07, 09:29 PM
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I numbered the lines exactly as they where before I started taking lines apart. I also check it against the diagram and everything looks good. as for the tps I was told that sometimes the tps needs to be adjusted, I didnt think so, so thats why i asked if it could be. took off the y pipe the air intake pipes,DP, only removed what needed to removed to take out the turbos.
Old 02-17-07, 09:36 PM
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Were you having problems with the turbos/turbo system before the turbo swap ?
Old 02-17-07, 09:46 PM
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the previous turbos were leaking oil and were smoking thats why they were replaced. also no I have lost the coolant seals its a fairly new engine maybe about 5K on it and its not smoking with the new turbos

Last edited by Envy It; 02-17-07 at 09:54 PM.
Old 02-17-07, 10:10 PM
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I'm not looking that deep, just trying to figure out if you had the problem before the turbo swap and thought the turbos would fix it and didn't. If it was an oil leak and all you did was swap the turbos it should still run like it did before the swap (all things being the same but the turbos) no pinched hoses ? ? ? You could always take the TB elbow off and see if it still stumbles. You didn't put rags in the IC piping and forget to take it out ? ? ? ? Not uncommon and it would severly restrict the air flow over idle.....remove the elbow and see how it revs once it's warmed up.
Old 02-18-07, 02:21 AM
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try resetting your ecu i had the same kid of issues and my ecu was in limp mode

its worth a try

edit i read a little bit closer this time a notice that what i said is wrong, i thought it said it was bogging after 1200 rpm
Old 02-18-07, 08:39 AM
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^ I would definitely try resetting the ECU. This is exactly how my car acted once when I had pulled the fuel pump fuse to allow me to crank the engine over without starting it. When the ECU 'sees' this, it puts the car into low-voltage mode for the pump, so that if you put the fuse back in and start things up, it will idle just fine and all that, but buck and lurch and choke out and backfire like a bitch until you reset the ECU, which allows the pump to go back into normal switching mode between high and low voltage, equating to high/low fuel pressure.
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