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dynomatting the hood

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Old 11-18-02, 02:48 PM
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dynomatting the hood

I'm a newbie just using the search here and there and I was wondering how much dynomatting the hood would cost. the cost. and would there be a downside to dynomatting it.
Old 11-18-02, 02:55 PM
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1) I hear the Dynomat is pretty pricey.
2) Extra weight.

Also, I do not know if Dynomat can withstand the high amount of constant heat in the engine bay.
Old 11-18-02, 02:56 PM
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Why? That stuff is heavey!
Old 11-18-02, 03:03 PM
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It's mainly for deadening sound for speakers, not for insulation.. I dont see there'd be a point to putting it in your hood.
Old 11-18-02, 03:30 PM
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Originally posted by cavellm
It's mainly for deadening sound for speakers, not for insulation.. I dont see there'd be a point to putting it in your hood.
I've done tons of research on soundproofing since I am going to tackle that project this winter.

The hood is the first place to start, especially if the OEM stuff is missing. Cavellm is right, Dynomat is not designed for that application however, and will fail.

Do a search in the interior/exterior section for more details..............You are talking about a monster project if you do the entire vehicle, and probably adding about 50 lbs or more. - no way around it since you need mass to make it work - but you should be able to get a db reduction of 10 or so, which is enormous, and it will make your stereo, no matter what you have, sound awesome.
Old 11-18-02, 03:55 PM
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Originally posted by RonKMiller


I've done tons of research on soundproofing since I am going to tackle that project this winter.

The hood is the first place to start, especially if the OEM stuff is missing. Cavellm is right, Dynomat is not designed for that application however, and will fail.

Do a search in the interior/exterior section for more details..............You are talking about a monster project if you do the entire vehicle, and probably adding about 50 lbs or more. - no way around it since you need mass to make it work - but you should be able to get a db reduction of 10 or so, which is enormous, and it will make your stereo, no matter what you have, sound awesome.


So is there anything you've found that works good??? I saw some stuff one time but it was pretty ugly looking, I was also thinking of the dynamat since it has that alum look to it. Is there anything else similar that will work?

I'm not worried about the weight from just putting it on the hood and doors, I've got pleany of power to make up for the 30lbs I'll be adding to the car. I'd gladly sacrifice 30 lbs for a much quiter ride and be able to hear my stereo.

STEPHEN
Old 11-18-02, 04:14 PM
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Originally posted by SPOautos




So is there anything you've found that works good??? I saw some stuff one time but it was pretty ugly looking, I was also thinking of the dynamat since it has that alum look to it. Is there anything else similar that will work?

I'm not worried about the weight from just putting it on the hood and doors, I've got pleany of power to make up for the 30lbs I'll be adding to the car. I'd gladly sacrifice 30 lbs for a much quiter ride and be able to hear my stereo.

STEPHEN
Unfortunately it's ALL ugly. I'm still looking for the right combination of materials to use. Think firewall as well - VERY important.
Old 11-19-02, 11:47 PM
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I think Dynamat sells hood insulation which has a alum lining for heat resistence. Check out crutchfield.com
Old 11-20-02, 12:04 AM
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Series7

I'm running an Alpine deck, JL Audio coaxial door speakers and a JL Audio Micro Sub 8.1 with a 100 watt amp. It sounds little when describing it, but it's actually very loud and has INCREDIBLE sound quality. Also, it doesn't weigh much and takes minimal space in the already small hatch area. Hope that helps.

Zach
Old 11-20-02, 05:32 AM
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Dynamat the entire rear of the car if you use a sub in the back, it will make an unbelievable difference.

I used the Super on most of the car aft of the bins and the spray-on for those areas that were difficult to access.
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