Hey all... Took my fd out of years of storage and to no surprise I see that my pump and tank interior is all rusted. I need to drop the tank and send it out for cleaning and coating. Is it that simple as in unbolting straps or is there more to it? I don't have the service manual anymore for guidance.

Thanks!

 

You can get the shop manual in PDF format online, it's easy to find.

It's not hard to drop the tank. If there's any gas at all in it, there's a drain plug on the bottom to drain it out.

Remove the access panel in the hatch and disconnect the hoses going to the tank there. Unbolt the 2 straps holding it in and undo the hose clamp to the oil fill neck and drop it out. Shouldn't take much time to do.

Rusty tanks are common in cars that sit a long time. New tanks are available but can be pricey. You'll also most likely need the tank hanger, fuel level sender, and fuel pump.

Dale

 

Thanks Dale! I'll look for the manual online. Yes the pump and sender will be replaced. When you say "hanger" are you referring to the part that holds the pump and sender?

 

Manuals are here, Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

and yes, its the 3 or 4 hoses and the two straps. i would put the car on jack stands and then use the floor jack under the tank, let the labor saving device do the work

 

Good chance to clean some hard to reach areas when you're in there. And, don't forget to change the fuel filter. Probably a solid idea to get new rubber lines too.

 

Thanks everyone. Going to send the injectors out to be cleaned too. Can anyone recommend an external aftermarket fuel filter with mount?

 

Why not just use OEM? And if your goal is relocation and you really feel the need, it’s pretty easy to do.

 

You'll spend more time money and effort relocating the fuel filter that just staying OEM. It isn't that hard to change the fuel filter. Read my how-to -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...change-905141/

Dale

 

Thanks all. I saw this link already. Just thought to make it easier for future changes.

 

nooooo! the Mazda fuel hose, even the 30 year old stuff, is better than anything else you can buy new. its also like $50 a foot from Mazda

 

It IS good line. But if that’s what they’re getting now it’s not $50 @ foot ‘good’ imo. There’s decent options out there in 5/16”.
I’ve never felt the need to relocate the filter. It’s just not been THAT big of a job to change. That said if the OP has the fuel tank dropped, then it seems like it would be a small job to do the relocation if he really wants to. I’d just stay with the OEM filter.

 

FWIW, i had leaks with 5/16 hose and it was double clamped. Had to tighten the **** out of them to stop the leaks. Doing again, i'd use metric, probably 7.5mm

https://www.belmetric.com/smooth-hig...0p4m92srjqo9a0

 

^Yep, I experimented with than on my FC back in the day. Standard/inch fuel line doesn't fit for ****. You have to have metric.

Really, the stock fuel hose is superb. Especially after the fuel line recall. It seems to be re-usable more often than not unless it's intentionally damaged or accidentally damaged.

Dale

 

+1 on OEM, unless it's not available or uber expensive

 

And I’ve used some too I ordered, iirc, from Summit. No issues, though I think I did double stock clamp it.

 

From what I remember, you will have to disconnect the lines from the top of the tank which can be accessed through the hatch under the spare. After releasing them, take off the straps and lower slowly as I believe there are a few more connections. Good luck

 

There’s a grounded wire in the back of the rear driver side footwell. Will need to push the liner a tad to get at it if I recall.

 

Usually harder to reinstall than take out, by some margin! If the tank has been changed previously for the better sump, etc, might find you have no drain point either.

There's only the feed and return and one line to the canister to worry about, plus the electrics. The vapor lines, you have to be careful with the rubber hose shrinking on the last one way, despite all the hoo-ha about mazda rubber, if you don't want to break the mounting tab, slicing it might be the safest option. If the wheel well liner is still intact, and everything not covered in crud, I'll undo the lower filler neck clamp next to the flapper valve.

Normally like to run a tap through the strap mountings before reinstall - 10x1.25 and if any burrs on the bolts, replacement or run a die or a thread file over them at least - a long socket stuffed with paper or similar is your friend if doing the installation by yourself.....when wondering why the straps are too short now.

 

Is it me or have RX7 part gotten more expensive?? Granted I haven't touched the car in over 10 years. OEM filter is 100 bucks. RX7.com has a aftermarket for $25. Has anyone used this one in place of the OEM filter?

 

Have you tried Ray Crowe?
(703) 785-5554

crowe.ray@aol.com

 

I ordered a filter from RX7.com. I spoke with Ari and he says that they use it a lot. So we'll see.

 

N3A1-13-480 list price is $72, nobody pays list, street price would be like $55

 

I had my Injectors sent out for cleaning to Jim@ Injector Repair LLC 518-956-0014. He balanced them and flow teared them for $17 each. The stock 850 were stuck closed but through the cleaning process he was able to save them. The 1600 flowed nice too. Just wanted to share a source that I felt gave great service.

 

Feels good to find a recent post. I just purchased a new tank and fuel pump assembly. I know this is all relative, but how difficult is it to change fuel lines? Do I need to get under the upper manifold or are all the hoses under car? TIA

 

Hey, You would need to get under the car. If the lines sat for a long time it would be best to flush them or run new lines. Maybe even run an additional filter up by the engine to catch anything that might be in the lines.