prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

Hi everyone. I need some advice on a couple of issues with my FD. My first question is would it be advisable to drive my FD approx 30 mins with a high idle of approx 1500 rpm. I need to take it to rotary performance for a retune and work on the hi idle deal. The drive would be mostly highway. Second issue is that my negative battery post is hitting my hood, is this something I need to address or just forget about it. I rather flatbed it than take a chance to screwup something else, thanks.

prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

Anybody? Any help is appreciated.

MazdaSpeedDan

iTrader: (4)

Driving with the high idle should be fine considering your RPM's will be much higher than that driving at highway speeds. If the negative terminal is making contact with a metal hood that I would address that issue ASAP.

Do you have a POWER FC Ecu? If you have the PFC you can control what RPM you Idle at.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

It will be fine. People who aren't using a programmable ECU and remove the airpump usually need to increase their idle to around 1200 rpms to keep the idle steady.

prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replies, I will drop her off tomorrow at RP so that Chris and Ari can do their magic. Can I drive her with the battery post issue, I don't want to short anything out? Thanks again.

AzEKnightz

iTrader: (24)

Negative terminal, no issue. Because both chassis and negative terminals are "grounds" =]

Get that girl running right so you can enjoy that brand new solenoid kit of yours =)

-AzEKnightz.

prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

^ Thanks Eric, she on her way to RP to get straighten out. So looking forward to getting her back and boosting her up.

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Please report back on what RP discovers as the cause of your high idle. Mine had been running fine until a few weeks ago. I took a 45 mile drive after the car had been sitting for a month (warmed up and not driven too aggressively) and on the return trip, my idle was at 1800 RPM's. It also fluctuates as if I'm pumping the gas from 1200 to 1800 at times. Sometimes it fluctuates with the lights too. Other times it sits at 1800. I just drove it to work and it's still doing it.

Just looking for ideas. Thanks.

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

Vacuum leaks after the throttle body. On my first start up on sunday my car idled around 2k and then began to fluctuate between 1600-2k rpm aftem water temp hit 50C. plugged everything up and it idle perfectly at around 900 (what my PFC is currently set at).

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Turk. My limited research was pointing in that direction. I was hoping I wouldn't have to get into all those hoses to find the leak and I had hoped the 12-year-old silicone tie-wrap job was bullet-proof. I had driven to a car show so maybe a spectator had fun with a hose while car-hopping? If so, maybe it's on the surface somewhere. I guess I cannot complain as the car has been almost worry-free for two years....it's about time my hands got dirty again. Half the fun right?

When you say "plugged everything up," did you mean you took off the UIM and checked out all those hoses?

(OP - sorry for the thread-jack.)

prrex4ever

iTrader: (3)

I believe that my high idle issue is from changing the initial settings on the TPS, hope to hear from the guys at RP soon.

1QWIK7

iTrader: (33)

I have had a slightly higher idle for about 6 years now. I actually bought a TB/TPS and had the seller adjust the TPS for me since i didnt know how to do it back then. When i installed it, my surging and stalling was gone but the idle was a bit high, about 1200-1300rpm. I knew that was too high but it does actually help with moving from a dead stop. Idk maybe its my clutch or my flywheel but i feel like i would stall the car if say my idle rpm was at the normal 750rpm. Or at least its much less forgiving than all the other stick cars i have driven.

To this day, the idle does find its way back to 1200rpm but oddly enough, i do sometimes get that perfect 750rpm. Most of the time it sits at 900, sometimes 1000rpm. It doesnt surge it just sits at a different rpm at each stop lol.

The drivability is good and doesnt affect anything so i dont bother trying to fix it. Im just glad the car runs lol

Turk82

iTrader: (17)

I have a single turbo so it was much easier than that. I just plugged all the nipples on the UIM/LIM that I neglected when I was putting things together.