Reading HERE I notice than he says that the factory studs could come out while you are tightening the nuts, if you were to try to reuse the factory studs. Therefore he recomends using new bolts to hold the downpipe on. this all makes sense, except for, how can the factory studs come out while tightening the nuts? Are they in the turbo manifold with reverse threads? I need to know this to remove the studs.

 

No they're threaded in normally (clockwise tightens them).

I'd re-use the factory studs and nuts if you can. They lasted 10 years, right? They're actually a really good fastening system, just hard to get out.

 

"You might ask "why could I not have left the studs in and used them?", well most downpipes will not fit on with the studs still in since they have a larger bend in the pipe. A few like one that HKS makes will fit, but even if it does fit the studs might come out as you are tightening the nuts on them."

The studs are not going to come out as you are tightening the nuts, unless they were almost out already. I think the guy must have typed this wrong. The studs are NOT reverse threaded.

Those precat nuts can be a real bitch to remove. After years of heat, they may almost be welded in place. Good luck.

Adam

 

So what is the best way to get them out? I was thinking to use 2 of the nuts on each stud and tighten them together. Then you can turn the stud with the inner nut.

 

Thats a possibility, if you can get a second nut onto the stud. I sprayed mine in liquid wrench a few times before going at it. I did the first spray at night, let the car sit over night, then sprayed them again in the morning, and started in on taking the nuts off. I think two of the studs came out with the nuts, but I was reusing the studs.

So I guess spray them down with some good lubricant, then try to thread on a second nut and turn the first nut.

 

NO that will snap them

Get a stud remover if you must.. Otherwise.. Vice grips dont fail often.. BUT if they do.. you are screwed and the turbos are coming out!

 

Why would that snap them?

 

I would leave the studs in if the nuts come off. Sometimes the nuts are on so tight that the studs come out. Some downpipes are designed to go on with the studs in place. The M2 DP is one of them. Which DP are you installing?

 

The RVM Racing DP.

 

I don't know about that one. I suggest that you check with the manufacturer about installation with the studs still in. The problem is that there isn't much space between the frame, and the turbos. If the DP design is such that it leaves less than about an inch of clearance to the frame (when installed), you may have to pull the studs. I would try the double nut method you described earlier, if you have to pull them.

Be sure to let things soak over night in something to lube the threads. I can't stress enough how important this is. Also, use a 6 point socket when removing the nuts. One more thing. I suggest removing the rear turbo to y-pipe tubing before trying to remove the nuts. It's in the way, and is easy to remove/reinstall.

 

Guess I am going to learn quite a bit this weekend huh?

 

This isn't an easy job. Many years, miles, and heat make it more difficult. Before you start, warn the neighbors about the bad language that may come from your vicinity during this job

 

Some manners/courtesy would be nice.....

 

Car only has 28k miles on it, so hopefully it won't be too stcuk in there.

 

I don't understand what you are saying?

 

What you said could be interpreted as saying that no one was helpful and you'd have to figure everything out for yourself this weekend. I'm sure that's not what you meant, though.

 

No I meant, when I take it apart and get in there for the 1st time, I am going to end up learning a lot. Unfortuanately, prob learn some things the hard way.

 

He meant you could also thank the people who posted to help you. It's usually a common courtesy when asking and then receiving help.

 

I think he was declaring he noob-ness to the whole rx-7 thing.

Anyways, yeah, installing the downpipe was the second thing I did on my car, boost gauge was first. So yeah, you could say I learned a lot from that. If you get stuck we're a helpful bunch, and theres always a few people on here.

 

Nothing wrong with that. He's just saying that he will learn something when doing this job.

 

This job really isn't that hard. What makes it difficult or time-consuming is when BS happens. Just soak the studs in penetrant beforehand. Then untighten as normal. If any studs come out, discard. Any that stay, re-use. The stud will break if it wants to break - no matter what method you use to loosen it - but penetrant, and sometimes even pre-running the car for a couple minutes, or worst case: blow torch, will minimize the possibility of snapping.

 

Do NOT succumb to the temptation to use a vise grip on the studs. They will just get chewed up, making the job more difficult. Using the 2 nuts is much more likely to succeed, and you may even be able to reuse the stud. Also, you may not have to remove all of the studs. Removing the bottom-most only might give you the clearance you need to angle the pipe in.

 

Str8Down, so how did the install go? And was that a RVM DP? Impressions so far?

Thanks.

 

I actually posted a follow up, sorry, should have just posted it here. As far as the RVM Downpipe, excelent quality, fit, and finish. And it went on like a breeze, other than the problems I had with the manifold, which has nothing to do wioth the DP. Anyohne looking for a SS DP is crazy not to buy the RVM Racing one, since they sell them on eBay for $160. Here is a link to my follow up.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=251211

 

Thanks for replying. I'm about to order one and have it more or less narrowed down. I like the looks of the ATR DP, as well as the RVM. Price is hard to beat obviously.
I've checked the Robinette page but want to confirm that I indeed do need to remove the intake hoses to get to the tough to reach studs?