down pipes
down pipes
going to do remove and replace the stock down pipes this weekend and i was wondering if i need a remap keeping the cat in i have a pfc in all ready and set up for twin apexi filters and cat back just wana get rid of the pree cats and heat wrap the pipe to take some of the heat out of the engine bay
Going to a decat Downpipe will not require a remap of your PFC.
Depending on which series PFC you have you will be covered up to your standard mild modifications (Intake, backbox, downpipe, smic). If you do more than that I would suggest having your ECU mapped in order to get the most out of the mods (with similar (basic) mods I gained 35 brake off the base map from a mapping session at Re:worx)
Depending on which series PFC you have you will be covered up to your standard mild modifications (Intake, backbox, downpipe, smic). If you do more than that I would suggest having your ECU mapped in order to get the most out of the mods (with similar (basic) mods I gained 35 brake off the base map from a mapping session at Re:worx)
it has been mapped to 95 with intakes and cat back
just wanted to make sure if i put the down pipe on that i wont be stressing the thing to much and it going pop on me
will it burp flames with the cat in it ?
just wanted to make sure if i put the down pipe on that i wont be stressing the thing to much and it going pop on me
will it burp flames with the cat in it ?
It's been mapped to 95 ron?
No it won't spit flames with the cat in (it shouldn't at least..)
What afr was it mapped to? You should be fine, though if you're worried just swap over to 98 ron (which you should be using anyway!).
No it won't spit flames with the cat in (it shouldn't at least..)
What afr was it mapped to? You should be fine, though if you're worried just swap over to 98 ron (which you should be using anyway!).
its right hand drive
i have a few bits ill be adding later so i was going to mapp it then like a 255lph fuel pump bigger in jects a fmic she is stock bar the intakes pfc and cat back
no idea what afr it done to but i try to always use shell v power or e5 or super unleaded
i have a few bits ill be adding later so i was going to mapp it then like a 255lph fuel pump bigger in jects a fmic she is stock bar the intakes pfc and cat back
no idea what afr it done to but i try to always use shell v power or e5 or super unleaded
Last edited by chrisdrx; Nov 17, 2008 at 10:44 AM.
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hello,
yes a 3inch front pipe makes a huge difference, it will wheel spin in the dry alot easier, but it will also blow up your engine, unless you control the boost and have a upgraded fuel system
from one of the tuners in ireland
ive read loads here saying that the mid pipe causes boost creep and that is the last thing i want i like my car working its all ready a money sponge can sone one enlighten me on this
yes a 3inch front pipe makes a huge difference, it will wheel spin in the dry alot easier, but it will also blow up your engine, unless you control the boost and have a upgraded fuel system
from one of the tuners in ireland
ive read loads here saying that the mid pipe causes boost creep and that is the last thing i want i like my car working its all ready a money sponge can sone one enlighten me on this
Chrisdrx,
If your car is RHD, it shouldn't have a pre-cat because of the steering shaft. Just to make sure we're all talking about the same thing....
A pre-cat on our (North American LHD models) was located immediately after the turbos. The main cat then was located farther down, roughly next to the tail housing of the transmission. Removing the pre-cat on a LHD model would not normally need any additional tuning. Removing the main cat and replacing it with a mid-pipe often does lead to boost creep and lean conditions...no matter where your steering wheel is at.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Nov 18, 2008 at 05:45 AM.
just an FYI
I have the PFC with the base map
Mods are:
fresh overhaul ~2.5k miles ago
DP/MP/CB
apexi filters
walbro 255
rich mans non-seq twins with ported WG
HKS hardpipes (stock intercooler)
I took it out tuning the other day
running 0.55-0.6 BAR ~9psi
and in the upper powerband after about 4.5-5k
the AFR is into the low 12's.. (12.1-12.2) which is too lean for comfort..
so it does lean out.. which i'm assuming is from the mods causing alot more airflow
Bear in mind I do live at sea level tho.. which will make a diff..
the out of boost areas of the map were rich and needed leaning out
so the PFC is not totally safe.. u might want to at least get a wideband on your car and check out ur AFR's..
but a downpipe wont cause ur motor to grenade immidately
I have the PFC with the base map
Mods are:
fresh overhaul ~2.5k miles ago
DP/MP/CB
apexi filters
walbro 255
rich mans non-seq twins with ported WG
HKS hardpipes (stock intercooler)
I took it out tuning the other day
running 0.55-0.6 BAR ~9psi
and in the upper powerband after about 4.5-5k
the AFR is into the low 12's.. (12.1-12.2) which is too lean for comfort..
so it does lean out.. which i'm assuming is from the mods causing alot more airflow
Bear in mind I do live at sea level tho.. which will make a diff..
the out of boost areas of the map were rich and needed leaning out
so the PFC is not totally safe.. u might want to at least get a wideband on your car and check out ur AFR's..
but a downpipe wont cause ur motor to grenade immidately
Replacing the stock pre-cat with a 3" down pipe will NOT require an uprated fuel system, or else blow up your engine.
I disagree completely that using a DP will require a boost controller. So long as you don't get rid of the main cat you should be fine.
I hope the tuner who told you this is NOT the same one who did your map... Your tuner should have left a safety margin at the top of the rpm range in case you *do* over boost a little bit (aka, you're driving along on a nice cold evening, intake temps are incredibly cold, the car is loving it, and you boost to 11psi instead of 10) so you haven't got to be afraid of driving this car like it's meant to be.
right in that case ill give it a lash throw it in and heat wrap it and see what happens ill be leaving in the main cat any ways i live in ireland so the coldiest it gets would be -5 it mostly just rains and doesnt get above a max of 25 in the hieght of summer lol
any tips on how to get it in i hear its a proper pain in the behind to do but worth the differance
any tips on how to get it in i hear its a proper pain in the behind to do but worth the differance
Originally Posted by Replacing the stock pre-cat with a 3" down pipe will NOT require an uprated fuel system, or else blow up your engine.
I disagree completely that using a DP will require a boost controller. So long as you don't get rid of the main cat you should be fine.
I hope the tuner who told you this is NOT the same one who did your map... Your tuner should have left a safety margin at the top of the rpm range in case you *do* over boost a little bit (aka, you're driving along on a nice cold evening, intake temps are incredibly cold, the car is loving it, and you boost to 11psi instead of 10) so you haven't got to be [I
I disagree completely that using a DP will require a boost controller. So long as you don't get rid of the main cat you should be fine.
I hope the tuner who told you this is NOT the same one who did your map... Your tuner should have left a safety margin at the top of the rpm range in case you *do* over boost a little bit (aka, you're driving along on a nice cold evening, intake temps are incredibly cold, the car is loving it, and you boost to 11psi instead of 10) so you haven't got to be [I
afraid[/I] of driving this car like it's meant to be.
First, a boost controller is only good for boost SPIKE, not CREEP. And the PFC's boost controller isn't that good. But you probably won't believe that either.
sorry for going on and on about it ill leave it be now
i have a biltz s spec boost contoler at home in a box but its tthe single solinod one a buy a while back on the cheap would that do a better job then the pfc
ps sorry for being such a noob
i have a biltz s spec boost contoler at home in a box but its tthe single solinod one a buy a while back on the cheap would that do a better job then the pfc
ps sorry for being such a noob
I got mine in by simply forcing that sob in there it was a tight squeeze for sure and if leave that heat shield in there i dont think you will get it out. i took the shield out first which took about 45 min of prying and bending with a vice grips (comes out the top) and then the down pipe was equally a pain going in and out but keep twisting wiggling pushing and pulling and it will go in.
btw rhd cars do have a pre cat.
btw rhd cars do have a pre cat.
I didnt wrap my pipe but its going to add that much more to the pipe so it will prob be an even bigger pain. take your time and enlist somebody with really small hands/arms like a scronny 12 year old. also keep the top rear stud in if at all possible the bottom two need to come out though. good luck and drink alot of beer you will need it.
I didnt wrap my pipe but its going to add that much more to the pipe so it will prob be an even bigger pain. take your time and enlist somebody with really small hands/arms like a scronny 12 year old. also keep the top rear stud in if at all possible the bottom two need to come out though. good luck and drink alot of beer you will need it.
well scronny 12 year old armwell that rules me out so ive got bigg hands and arms but yes one can not work on said car with out beer its like fuel and help releave some of the stress of doing any thing one the car as everything is mess to do on it
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