I was tuning a car that started having a slipping clutch at higher boost. When I pulled the peep hole off, this fork seems like its bent but I cant say for sure as I have none to compare too. Does it look like its bent? it does to me.



thewird

 

Doesnt look like it. how old is your clutch? maybe it needs replacement.

 

It was replaced yesterday with a used one by a random shop (not by a car). The clutch in it before was supposedly new and this one is slipping the same exact way (around 5.5k in 3rd gear it jumps to 7k and stays there) so I don't think its the clutch itself. I jacked the car up and took that picture. The car is relatively stock with only 12 PSi, I don't think its a power issue LOL.

thewird

 

looks fine to me but that isn't to say that the top ear we cannot see is cracked. the cast iron base can and does crack.. make sure there is some free play in the pedal first. but even if it was bent or cracked it would have more an issue releasing the clutch than not holding it.

maybe the car is just making too much for the clutch!

 

Stock engine with stock twins, 12 PSi. I don't think thats too much for even a stock clutch LOL. Yah I know it has to come out regardless, was just hoping to figure out why first.

thewird

 

probably a junk cheapo pressure plate.

and don't use that shop again, they didn't grease up a single pivot or slide... could even be the throwout is getting stuck on all that old dried up **** on the slide.

 

Check your clutch pedal adjustment!

 

That was the first thing I did. I'm starting to think its the slave cylinder.

thewird

 

The clutch fork is made of hard cast alloy. It will crack rather than bend, usually developing cracks around the pivot point hole. I had mine break this way after putting on a more heavy duty clutch and pressure plate. More spring force leads to failure of the fork. If the release fork is broken, you will not be able to release the clutch. It will be engaged all the time.

If it is slipping at high rpm, as your power and torque build up, there is 1) insufficient spring pressure from your pressure plate, 2) worn friction lining on clutch disc, 3) grease or oil contamination on the friction surface of the disc or pressure plate, 4) something hanging up (burrs or dirt on input shaft or something obstructing the pivots on the pressure plate) that prevents the pressure plate from moving the disc to fully engaged position or 5) your last comment- too much power. After I upgraded to my stage 2 engine, upgraded turbos, upgraded exhaust, etc, my first full-throttle run spun the nearly new stock clutch when I shifted into second gear. An upgrade to the ACT setup was able to handle the increased torque. If you are going to remove the clutch, bite the bullet and put on one of the HD aftermarket clutch-PP setups. They last longer and you will have the ability to spin tires at will.

 

If you use a bar are you able to push the clutch fork towards the clutch to make sure all of the tension is off of the throw-out bearing?

 

It does look a little strange but maybe to not being well focused.
Just took these two pictures im my houses without a flash. Two different angles to the rotating axis.