Its all in the subject. I live in SD so anywhere around that area would be great.

 

Mazda Dealer. The studs aren't that expensive. The nuts are about $6.00 a piece.

 

the nearest Mazda dealership, although if you need some other OEM stuff I'd just call Ray at Malloy Mazda.

edit: damn thats twice you've beat me to the punch tonight mahjik lol.

 

I don't know what dealers charge. I recently bought a set of studs, and 8 locking nuts from Mazda Motorsports. $40 shipped .

 

About twice that.

 

ATP turbo has lock nuts and studs that I'm experimenting with -

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FST

I've used those nuts on a number of TurboII's in the past with GREAT results. They bite enough not to vibrate loose, but aren't super agressive like Mazda's fasteners that will almost always pull out or damage the stud.

You need 10mm studs/nuts for the downpipe connection and for the majority of the manifold nuts. You need 1 8mm stud and nut also for the manifold to turbo connection.

I just swapped my turbos out weekend before last, and used the studs for the downpipe connection (didn't have enough studs in stock for the manifold). So far, so good.

BTW, the studs and nuts for the TII turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe are pretty similar to the FD's from Mazda. I've tried the Mazda fasteners back in the day and was VERY disappointed. Not a bad route if you NEVER want to take it off again, but we end up unbolting junk and working on the car more often than that . Again, I need more time with the FD to totally test these fasteners, but I have a good feeling about them. Cheaper and work better than the stock part - can't go wrong there.

Dale

 

Wow, wasn't expecting that many replies. So next question is what sizes do i need exactly for the four studs that bolt the manifold in? Thanks a lot guys, i would be lost without you sometimes

 

Maybe you didn't see this the first time , or perhaps you are still "lost"!!

 

I know this is an old thread. But, since some time has passed, I wanted to ask Dale Clark how the turbo studs and nuts from ATPTurbo have been holding up? Are the up to the standards of the expensive Mazda turbo studs/nuts?

I need a new turbo stud and nut because one nut refused to come off its stud. To avoid damaging my turbo studs I clamp a socket wrench into a vice. Next, I put the nut, which has the stud still attached to it, into a 14mm socket. I remove the stud with a huge pair of Channellock pliers. After removing the stud, I tap out the nut with a 10mm x 1.5 tap. Finally, I make sure that I can thread the nut all the way on the stud by hand.

Thanks,
Keith

 

Yep, I've been using the ATP fasteners for some years now, they work great. Had a stud pull out last time I did the downpipe, but I think I forgot to PB Blast it first. No biggie, just popped in another ATP stud, good to go.

I also recommend getting some washers to go with the ATP nuts. Their base is pretty small, and a washer does help distribute the clamp load. I just got a bag of them for a few bucks from McMaster-Carr.

Dale

 

I feel silly. I bought some replacement studs from ACE hardware. They look/feel just like the old ones (minus rust).

 

me too but i got automotive grade so no rust.

 

Your Viton check valves are looking pretty good too. Also, I just spent $63 at Malloy Mazda for all new nuts and 2 studs. Only 2 studs because 2 got chewed up when I removed the nuts off of them. Luckily, four studs came out ok. I bought new nuts because I chased the threads of the old ones. Now the nuts don't pinch the studs anymore. By pinching the studs, the stock nut torques it during tightening and is locks after it's tightened. Foolish move on my part to chase the threads in the Mazda nut. Anyway, I could've got a whole new set of studs and nuts for around $15 from ATP.