I've got a coolant leak that looks to be coming form the drivers side of the car just fwd of the engine. But it's dripping from the undertray, so I'm not too sure where it's coming from. I've searched the forum, and with that, i've replaced the AST (with a Pettit one) and the rad hoses. the AST was actually broken and that contributed to the leak, but that wasn't the only one apparantly. I took out the overflow tank and washed it out too. The engine was rebuilt less than 10k ago and i'm not getting the champagne bubbles. I am seeing a little coolant on the rad where the drivers side fan is and it's not coming from the AST. I thought I had the leak fixed since I drove it for 1/2 hour yesterday and had no leaks, but I drove it today and left a small puddle in the parkinglot. I got it back home and shut it down and there is no puddle now. I'm planning on replacing all of the hoses since it's pretty cheap. Do I need a new radiator? Or it doesn't even have to be need...since i'm at it, SHOULD i get an aftermarket rad anyway? Aslo, is there a good RX7 shop anywhere in the Temecula area where I can get it looked at?

Jason

 

An aftermarket aluminum radiator is always a good upgrade for the FD. The OEM has plastic tanks, is undersized and inefficient. Get a Fluidyne, or equivalent.


LAter

 

pressurize the system and feel around your hoses while you move them, hoses may leak intermittently. Aluminum either has a hole and leaks or it doesn't (unless the coolant level is below the hole). Mine did this, it turned out to be a small split in the hose to the AST.

 

2 other places in addition to the AST and radiator that often leak are (1) the coolant level sensor - its plastic housing cracks and leaks, and (2) the water pump seal. Both of these can drip down to the undertray and be confused with other sources. As said above, do a pressure test to diagnose where the leak originates.

On the subject of radiators, if you find that it is leaking, IMO, the OE radiator does a fine job at close-to-stock levels of power, and in normal driving, may actually work better than an aluminum aftermarket radiator, due to its excellent fin design. And it fits perfectly with no fitment issues, which often arise with Koyo or even Fluidyne. Check out this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=radiatorworld .

 

In case you didn't know already, you can rent a coolant system pressure tester from you local autoparts store. Autozone usually has them. you'll need the adaptor for import cars.

 

Dave - thanks for the link to your post. I'm def going to stay away from the rw.com rad. I don't have too many mods yet, so I'm hoping to stay with the stock rad. Hopefully the pressure test will reveal that it's just a hose and nothing major. Future plans call for the Re-Amemiya V-Mount so I can keep the AC, but that won't be until Oct. when I have the $$$. I hope everything holds out until then.

 

So....I got the pressure tester today and I had a small leak, but I don't think it was big enough to cause a good sized puddle. So, I'm going to get all new hoses from Mazda and go from there. Thanks for the help all. I appreciate it.

Jason

 

order the OEM hose clamps also. Makes install much easier and they won't screw up the hoses like the regular worm type clamps.

 

rgr, will do. thanks.

 

It doesn't take much. With my AST hose, most times it wouldn't leak and all was dry, sometimes coolant would run out from under the car (I park on an incline). But all new hoses is always a good idea.

 

Ok, I'm completely confused now.....drove the 7 today around town for about an hour or so. No leaks at all. Part of that drive was for the new hoses and clamps from the dealership though so they are going to get replaced anyway.

 

The Knightsports V-Mount keeps the AC too. Good option to consider and a little cheaper than the RE-A V-Mount. +1 for OEM rubber hoses and clamps too.

 

Is the Knight Sports cheaper? I've seen it for 3500 and the RE-A for as little as 3100. That's the reason I was going with RE-A instead of Knight Sports. But I'll keep a look out. It isn't going to happen until Oct. anyway, so I've got some time.

edit: just reading some old posts...does anybody know off the top of their head if Rotary Extreme still offers their vmic that still keeps the ac in?