RX7Elmo

I searched this and read all the treads on it. I noticed some good questions that were asked but never answered.

1st question: How long do the sensors last. Yes they are supposed to be used for hondas (50K mi), but has anyone actually just left the sensor there and seen no problems?

2nd: which sensor is the best? Boche okay? or Must i use the honda original sensor?

3rd: Who has actually tuned with this and can vouch for it's accuracy?? comments?

4th: I just bought the kit (minus sensor) for 113shippd and how hard is this thing to put together? Yes i can solder and I have some skills soldering LEDs, resistors, but is this thing like putting together a car model kit? or more like a lot of tinkering and figuring it out?

All help is appreciated. Thanks.

Danny

RX7Elmo

I also noticed the factory Honda Sensor costs 260. while the bosche or other brands from napa cost 140 or less....is there a difference?

Danny

xph

The sensor must me an NTK, it comes in a bosh box however... I ordered mine from the parts place listed on the DIY web site. (150 i think???)

I have tuned my car with it, but havn't checked it against a lambda sensor yet.. I'm sure its is within a few tenths Air / Fuel..

If you have never soldered before, find a friend that has and pay them. You will need a digital mult meter for testing (it also helps for reading resistors). you will also need to fabricate a power-supply by using a resistor and a couple of AA bateries for calibration... but really if you take your time, and inspect your solder joints carefully, I had no problems...

RX7Elmo

Thanks for the reply!!! i was afraid no one had an answer. Okay, i'll make sure to get the right 02 sensor. I'll go for the one at the partsbin.com

And i have soldered before. I've soldered LEDs (smaller than grains of rice) onto cell phones before, so i hope i can do this. And i have a multi-meter as well. Are there instructions included in the kit? Like step by step? or do i seriously have to figure it all out myself?

Danny

spigot

iTrader: (4)

For $113 somebody is making money that they shouldn't be. Here is the web site for the controller www.diy-wb.com They have full schematics and assembly instructions on the site. Just as a FYI the parts (resistors, caps, ic's) are $16, the PCB is $4.30 so for under $180 you can have a full working system.

I just finished putting together and testing one but I havn't bought the sensor yet, we are using it to tune our Formula SAE car. I'll be doing some testing against the two other wideband controllers I have access to ( motec and NTK) and I'll reply more about that later.

As far as problems I can see with the design, there isn't any compensation for temperature built into the circuit. I don't know how much this will throw off measurements at high exhaust temps but I'll be testing it on my car in a few months.

I hope to be using the diy-wb with my datalogit to tune my power FC on the street.

Matt

grampa

The sensors are supposed to last 100km, but I have my doubts about that with rotary EGTs. Mine lives in the dp but for only $120@ I don't care if it only lasts 20km. You must be careful to alway have the heater active while the engine is running or the sensor will get coated and not work.
I also have it connected to a datalogit and have done some tuning but since Dave at KD just did my car I haven't changed much. I did log an emissions dyno test session as an aid in leaning out only the map cell area that is used for the test.
People have compared the oz-wb to the more expensive units and found them to essential be just as accurate. A search could probably find this comparison somewhere.

skunks

I highly suggest going to rent a lambda meter, reasons being that...

1. It's cheaper (renting a lambda meter should cost you about 30 bucks)
2. I would not trust that Do it yourself stuff (there are some stuff you can do youself but this is just not one of them!)

grampa

And what do you base this on?
I'm an EE and don't consider the circuit used to be too bad. All of the resistors used are 1% and the caps are fairly stable. I did put nail polish dabs on the trimmers to prevent drift from vibration.
Granted, the kit is not for anyone that can barely solder and have little experience with electronics but I have been a design engineer for twenty five years and had little problem. I even ordered a second kit assembled since I don't have the time lately for building.

skunks

I'm not sure that the O2 sensor can sense the changes fast enuf or at all. These O2 sensors were never made to be this sensitive/accurate. Of course you could always chance it, it is your engine after all.


Good luck

forcefed1

I have had one for about 3 mons now. I find it works real well. My only gripe is the LED display is not light enough to be of much use during the day in sun light.

I added a bung to my MP so I can see what's happening when the car is in closed loop and open loop. I run the WB all the time. I find it to be a very veluable tool.

as for building it. if you have a fine tip solder gun and some prior experience, You should have no trouble at all.
BTW. I wanted a SST bung on my SST MP to mount the NTK sensor. I had trouble finding one. So I made a few with plugs (I have access to a lathe and mill) incase I wanted to remove it (the sensor) later.
I made several when I made the one. If anyone wants a SST exhaust bung with sst plug ill ship you a set for 17.50$ shipped PM me if your intrested.

grampa

Keep in mind that the NTK sensor used with the oz-wb is not your usual sensor. My datalogging runs with it show that it is fairly fast. Attached is a 30 second log of a gentile acceleration to 44kmh and then coasting to 0. The left side legend is O2 ratio, manifold pressure peaked just under 0psi.

RX7Elmo

Thanks for all the helpfull replies guys. I can't wait to get it and start soldering. ..and yes, i realize the actual parts only cost like 20 bucks, but i had no idea where to get them etc. I just wanted a kit. has anyone actually compared this to a 'real' wideband from a dyno and mark any differences??

danny

Wankel7

The question was asked if it comes with step by step instructions. Does it?

Also, where can you rent a wideband sensor?

James

RX7Elmo

hey,

i didn't get an answer for instructions either. But i think it comes with a resistor/capacitor layout etc. I heard it takes a long time to complete it. Something like 7 hours was thrown in the air. I just hope i get mine to work! and no clue where you can "rent" a wideband.

Danny

jr

These are the instructions it comes with - http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/constr.htm . They are helpful if you have some prior electrical/soldering experience, but if this is your first time you will be lost. I've built the WB controller and it was fairly easy, the display on the other hand is giving me problems. 2 of the LED's won't display.

Wankel7

Ok, I just read at this website http://www.mrm-racing.a.se/English/MRM_lambda.htm that egts of 800°C should not be exceeded. That is somewhat under the rotary egts. Any input?

James

jr

I've heard a rotary exhaust can peak at 1600F which is ~870C. I would think if the sensor was placed far enough down the DP it would have cooled off enough to be below the 800C recommended maximum.