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iTrader: (8)

I believe my transmission is somehow still attached to my engine.

I elected to leave the transmission in the car while removing the engine.
I separated the clutch release collar from the wedge collar using a screwdriver.

The engine is separated from the bell housing about an inch. I cannot seem to pull the engine any farther away from the transmission.

Looking through the inspection hole in the bell housing, I can see about an inch of spline on the end of the transmission shaft protruding through the wedge collar.

How long is the splined area of the shaft? Am I close to getting it out? Or should I just remove the clutch cover bolts?

btw I did not remove the clutch release cylinder/slave cylinder.


Thanks in advance for any help

axr6

If you separated the clutch release collar and the engine-transmission is an inch apart there should be nothing holding them together.

Make sure the transmission is supported and the engine is coming out at a correct angle (no binding with the spline)

Also, make sure that you take off the engine mounts as they will not clear their well, unless you lower the engine subframe by a couple of inches.

Albert

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iTrader: (8)

Albert, thanks for the response.

I am fairly certain the release collar is separated. As I stated the spline is about an inch through the wedge collar.

I have removed the motor mounts.

What is the correct angle?

Do I need to remove the clutch slave cylinder?

thanks again

Railgun

Straight out.

No.

axr6

When I said correct angle is to make sure that the transmission spline is not binding. Usually, you want to raise and support the transmission to as much as the tunnel allows and tilt the engine (front up) to keep it aligned with the center line of the transmission as you SLOWLY raise it and carefully wiggle it side to side to separate. If you're already and inch apart the clutch wedge collar should have been separated already.

You should not have to remove the clutch slave as there is nothing inside the bellhousing that would attach it to the clutch fork.

You did remove the starter?

Albert

Stanello

iTrader: (1)

Also, you may have to give it a very firm yank or 4 on the chains to get the engine completely seperated from the transmission.

xblazinlv

I had to wiggle mine apart when I pulled the engine last. Even after everything was disconnected, it took a bit of work to separate them.

books

iTrader: (8)

First of all, thanks for all the responses.

I know this is similar to Tenacious’ thread, but I have disengaged the release bearing from the wedge collar and the tranny is still attached to the engine with about a 1” gap.

I still cannot remove the engine from the tranny. I have aligned the tranny and engine close to the same angle. However it does not want to budge free.

I am considering bolting the tranny back to the engine and removing the pressure plate (clutch cover) bolts.

Does anyone think this will help?

Has anyone who removed the clutch cover bolts experience this binding or experience difficulty separating the engine from the tranny?

Busted7

i always unbolt the pressure plate from flywheel, it has always made it easer at least for me. if you use woble socket and impact wrench its easy. your snap ring is probley all screwed up.

extreme_rotary

If you have disconnected the clip from the slave cylinder, then they will seperate. A trick we do at the shop is to get under the car and look at the subframe. there are six bolts holding it to the frame. Losen the middle nut (one on each side...17 deep socket) a few threads then remove the two bolts closest to the firewall. Don't be afraid, the engine isn't going to fall on you. This moves the subframe down about an inch or so. Get an impact socket, or a piece of wood, anything you can find to wedge between the subframe and the frame to keep it from moving up. Next, support the car on stands and take your jack under the bellhousing of the transmission. jack it up until the bellhousing touches the top of the firewall. one gentle yank on the motor and it will literally fall forward about five inches. Just do not forget to remove the one 10mm bolt on the transmission that holds the slave cylinder hydraulic line on, for if you let the transmission down after the motor is out with that bolt in, it can stretch and even tear your slave cylinder hdraulic line. Dave and i do this everyday, and we do not remove the motor mounts or unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. that is a waste of time

extreme_rotary

oh yeah, if you have/had a cat, double check that you disconnected the air pipe at the back of the intake that goes to the cat. that is often overlooked.

books

iTrader: (8)

I have not disconnected the slave cylinder or disconnected its clip. I have not seen where the clip is, but I'll revisit the shop manual. Perhaps this is the hang up.

Presently the motor mounts are removed and the tranny is on a hydraulic jack.

thanks for the advice

books

iTrader: (8)

extreme rotary,

I just looked at pages 14 and 15 of section H of the shop manual and could not locate any clip. Where is the clip located or should I just remove the entire slave cylinder from the bell housing.

zullo

I don't think that with the slave cylinder in place you can swing the clutch fork to free the release collar.

Mate the engine back up to the bell housing, then remove the slave cylinder, then free the release collar. They didn't just throw that step in for the hell of it.

books

iTrader: (8)

thanks again for all the inputs,

Here are 2 pics of the wedge collar and release collar. The first one is with the engine about an inch apart from the tranny. You can see where the input shaft is starting to come through the wedge collar. The 2nd pic is when I reattached the tranny to the engine. Both pics are with the slave cylinder not removed.


It appears to me that the release collar is separated from the wedge collar in both pics, perhaps not enough??


Hopefully removing the slave cylinder will solve my problem. Zullo I did miss, ignore this step. I believe I misinterpreted that step thinking it was to prevent binding when raising the bell housing , even though it is in the clutch section of the manual where you do not need to raise the tranny.

jd to rescue

iTrader: (3)

Well the test is if you can freely move the throwout bearing separate from the diaphram springs in the clutch cover. It will just flap around. If it is still tugging the springs, the wedge collar is not free.