I know, this comes up all the time but.... I need some clarification. And, yes I did do a search, but it's very vague. So, here it goes. I found this about doing the poor man's nonseq conversion...

1. Take the air box out, and the 2 hoses that supply air to the turbos.
2. Take the blow off valve and charge relief valve off
3. Disconnect the vacuum line to the charge relief valve and cap it at the upper manifold.
4. T into the blow off valve´s vacuum line, and run a new line to the old charge releif valve.
5. Remove all vacuum lines to the charge control valve on the rear of the Y pipe. This should dissable the butterfly in the Y... keeping it open always. Besure to cap all the removed vacuum lines to the manifold and Y pipe.
6. Jack up the car, support it with jack stands, and take off the front passenger side tire (this makes it tons easier to get under and out of the car.)
7. Remove the head sheilding to the under neath of the turbo (should be 5-6 10mm nuts and bolts)
8. Remove the keeper pin from the actuator rod and seperate the rod from the door mechanism. Wire the door open. I ran a wire around the actuator around the door lever and back about 3 times. (tip: with the car off, the door is closed. to open it, it should be rotated towards the front of the car)
9. Remove the vacuum lines to the Turbo Pre Control actuator, remove the rod to the door, and wire it open. Make sure to cap all loose lines.
10. Leave the direct pressure line (the one with the restrictor) on the Wastegate actuator.
11. Resinstall all your intake hoses, make sure it is all tightened, and take it for a spin around the block

For number 8, which actuator?
For number 10, what direct pressure line? I'm confused...
And last but not least, to get this conversion to work correctly, should I have a perfect 10-8-10 before attempting this converision? Because, at this time I have a 6-5-5

 

First off.... if you are only seeing 6 psi off your primary then you have a boost leak somewhere in the intake line from the turbos to the engine. The most common is the couplers, they tend to split. Once you have 10 psi on your primary then you can better evaluate your turbo problems. Even if you go non-sequential with that boost leak, all the boost you push is going to be sucked back out that leak before it gets to the engine. Also when you go non-sequential you will loose the curve, it will act more like a single turbo setup. Ex: You build 12 psi then it starts to drop off slowly at higher rpms.

Back to your non-sequential question.... The actuator is the TCA. You cant miss it underneath the car, its the biggest one.... stands out from the other two. It might be easier to just remove the whole TCA, thats what I did, works fine. For the other two actuators... It doesnt make such a big deal on what the Turbo Pre-controler does (Wiring it open might be a little better but either way it works fine). The TCA is where your exhaust for the second turbo is opened or closed. I think on mine I just pulled off the lines going to the Turbo Pre-control and plugged them. Step 10 is just telling you to leave the Wastegate actuator alone.

Anyway, make sure you get 10 psi off your first turbo before you move any further.