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DaleClark's AEM water/meth install, woo!

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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:30 PM
  #51  
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I don't believe I have a current draw. Car sits a lot, I know recently it sat for about 2-3 weeks and fired right up no problems.

I know I just hooked it up as the instructions recommended.

For the pump's feed, I am pulling from the bottom of the tank, but the tube goes from the top of the tank in, then down to the bottom. The pump is on about the same level. Never had any issues there.

Dale
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 08:37 PM
  #52  
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well if you think of it like a straw, you can feed it into a glass of water and bend it so the outlet is below the bottom of the glass. no water will come out until the line is primed. drill a hole in the bottom of the glass and water comes out regardless.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 10:29 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by adamrs80
....How did you guys connect to power and are you certain you're not having an issue?
I used switched power from above the interior fuse panel with an in-line fuse following Coolingmist's instructions. The only thing I added to the circuit was a little LED, but no issues.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:42 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
I used switched power from above the interior fuse panel with an in-line fuse following Coolingmist's instructions. The only thing I added to the circuit was a little LED, but no issues.
What items do you have running off the switched power on the interior fuse panel? Do you have the pump, controller, LED, everything on that switched power or just some of the pieces?

I used one of the switched power slots on the interior fuse panel for the yellow AEM wire, I think the yellow is the one that is supposed to "arm" the system. Are both of the female spade power slots same? The AEM LED lights up when I turn on the key but it seems like the pump and controller are drawing power all the time. Why wouldn't they be if they are connected directly to the battery with no switch in-between? My only guess is that the yellow AEM wire leads to an internal switch in the controller. I don't think that is the case though. The only other added electronic accessory I have added to my car are two elec. greddy gauges, one boost and the other water temp. They don't turn on until the key is turned.

The system has been working great since I installed it other than the battery drain issue.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 04:52 PM
  #55  
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IIRC, just the pump, through the boost switch, and the LED.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:29 PM
  #56  
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I'm confused, are you saying you had the pump, pump controller and LED wired up to the switched power at the interior fuse box? That is what I think I'm going to have to do to avoid the battery drain. I don't think that is what your saying but I want to be sure I understand.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 06:57 AM
  #57  
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I have a boost activated system. So the only 'controller' I have is that boost switch, which doesn't draw any power. The only thing drawing 12v is the pump. The LED draw is negligible.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 08:37 AM
  #58  
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We both have the same AEM system. I agree the LED is negligible. I'm pretty sure my controller is drawing current. We probably installed it the same way, I used the instructions and I think you followed my install thread somewhat. Maybe the red controller power wire should be hooked up to the same switched power as the controller yellow wire.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #59  
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^I followed your thread with the respect to using the stock WS washer tank. But I have a Coolingmist pump and used their wiring instructions for it. My system is really basic/simple...I have no 'controller', just the boost switch.

Would it be possible to isolate whatever is drawing current in that system with a multi-meter?
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #60  
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I see, I didn't realize we were not running the same thing. I did try to isolate it on Sunday. Here is the post from a few days ago. I may just end up having to call AEM. I don't know why any of the AEM system needs to be connected directly to the battery. It seems like it should only be getting elec. when the key is on anyways. I don't believe it has any memory or any other reason to need power all the time.


Originally Posted by adamrs80
I have a battery drain problem, been going on since well Jan 2010 when I installed the AEM injection system.

I followed the instructions exactly and connected both the red pump wire and red controller wire directly to the battery. I'm drawing .026 amps with those wires directly connected and .013 without so I know the AEM is drawing power all the time.

How did you guys connect to power and are you certain you're not having an issue?

I see what you did Dale, is that connection HOT with the key off?
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #61  
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Does anybody know what the amp rating is of the female spade terminals on the interior fusebox? Is it fused anywhere?
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 11:36 AM
  #62  
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I want to use my OEM washer tank too and was wondering if anyone could fix the photos on this?
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #63  
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^For location of where to drill the stock tank, here https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ite-up-883642/ . Pictures for locating pump etc. at the end of the thread here...https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-in...ion-fd-959565/

Last edited by Sgtblue; Apr 6, 2016 at 12:55 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 01:11 PM
  #64  
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Perfect! Thank you!

What nozzle is that? My AEM nozzle is straight and the 90 would fit so much better.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 02:39 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 04G35S
Perfect! Thank you!

What nozzle is that? My AEM nozzle is straight and the 90 would fit so much better.
Just a 90 degree elbow ---> https://www.coolingmist.com/pagedisp...njectors,parts
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 07:56 AM
  #66  
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I'm glad you brought it back from the dead, it's a great thread.

I sure miss this forum. It's the best, most informative, and has the best group of enthusiasts that I've come across.

I'm glad my thread came in handy for someone.
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