I think you did most of the research, so thanks for providing the info.

 

The seed was the Rebco Air link; I has searched a number of solenoid manufactures but never got them. then the confirmation of the 103 marking confirmed my research.

 

Just a question guys....

Obviously some of these parts are the reason the sequential system breaks down. Testing/changing these solenoids can be a pain in the butt as well. Obviously upgrading to these solenoids and relocating them is ideal but can you also move the stock ones to the same area? By moving them out from under the UIM you could help keep some of the heat away but more so save a ton of time in diagnosing and replacing any solenoid that happens to break down.

Any thoughts, has anyone moved them with success? Is there any reason why you couldn't/shouldn't relocate the stock units?

 

I don't see any reason why you couldn't move the stock solenoids over to the side. The limiting factor is that the stock solenoids slide on to tabs on the "Rat's Nest", so obviously you wouldn't want to relocate the whole "Rat's Nest" because that just doesn't make sense. You would have to fabricate some sort of rail to mount the stock solenoids on so they won't be all loose and messy, but that doesn't seem too difficult. You'd also have to extend the wires that plug into the stock solenoids which would be a little bit of a PITA, but definitely possible. I don't know anyone who's tried it though.

 

Yes, this has been done in the past. The member ended up with some boost issues but never posted back about having them fixed. Personally, I would look more at insulating the solenoids rather than moving them. Creating longer tubing will decrease the responsiveness. Whether it's noticeable or not is another thing...

 

i used the stock rats nets to relocate the solenoids, i just cut the part where the solenoids clip on and put it next to the abs.

i'm thinking about moving it again though, thinking of on the firewall behind the UIM.

 

Did you have any issue with the harness being long enough or any unwanted turbo issues as a result?

It just seems to make sense to get them out of the heat, and have more access to them in the future....

 

Guys, I am having a heck of a time fining brass 10-32 x 1/8" or 5/32" barbed fittings. I may have to go to 1/8" NPT style values or accept glass filled black nylon fittings "EldonJames". Anyone else have any luck. Also David Pasznik at Fabco was no help to buy solenoid values from, he told me to find a distributor in Texas.

 

You might check Parker: http://www.parker.com/

I don't think you can buy directly from them, but you can find a local hydraulic shop who can/does.

 

I've bought parker stuff before. They have a lot of oddball parts. In fact, I have a Parker catalog sitting on top of my ******* right now.

Did you check McMaster-Carr?

 

I started with Parker then went to Mcmaster-Carr .. no luck

 

when i relocated them to the next to the abs i had to extend the harness a bit, not that difficult but it killed my back bending over to solder everything together.

i'm sure however, that if i didn't relcoate them to the abs the stock harness would have been long enough to reach to the firewall behind the UIM, you'd just have to unwrap it

before doing the relocation my secondary wasn't kicking in after transition to full boost so when i was diagnosing the problem and delved into the deep theory of the sequential system, i decided to relocate them....it was doing the same thing after the relocation so nothing changed but i didn't like the way it looked by the abs. here's a pic:




as you can see the hoses go right over the turbo, negating the whole concept of the relocation, my dumbass didn't think of that beforehand....

just FYI, i also did the fuse box relocation as well as the coolant relay relocations, here is a pic of the engine bay without the whole harness in your face.... forgive the disgusting engine bay

 

This right there is sig-worthy

I used this stuff on my engine wiring harness and single turbo oil return, it would work well for a group of maybe four silicone hoses:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010405/

Also, you seem to be missing your intercooler duct in that picture

 

^ i'm at the crosshairs right now, debating whether or not to go single but that rips apart all the work i've done to the sequential system....i like the twins but i hate the crap that comes with it

either way, that's an old pic right after i did it and there is a lot more missing than just the intercooler duct

 

Yes, Good stuff

 

I found the distributor and paid 285 for 4 solenoids, brackets , fittings etc. There still in the mail.

 

Here is my invoice. I used the 104 solenoids. Whoops? I ordered plugs to so i hopefully can cap off the unused port. I think that i was planning on using a 3 way splitter for vacuum and connecting the modular manifold. From the picture I thought rob had them hooked up sharing a vacuum source? The side port with the 3 way fitting in his picture runs internally to all the solenoids unless you cap one off. Ill have a better understanding once I receive mine this week. Fabco air was the manufacturer and oscar at prime resource was the distributor I got connected with.





Quantity Item Code Description Price Each Amount
104-M-G-V 12VDC Sol. Valve 4-way , 1/8 inlet , 10-32 outlet , viton ,
grommet leads 12vdc
4 63.10 252.40
4 211-2 CONNECTOR 1/8 BARB X 10-32 0.46 1.84
4 P08 MUFFLER 10-32 0.95 3.80
4 468-2 10-32 PLUG WITH SEAL 0.27 1.08
1 524-1 ELBOW 1/8 TUBE X 1/8 NPT MALE 1.04 1.04
4 1293-1 ADJUST ELBOW 1/8 X 10-32 MALE 1.67 6.68
1 #101 BRACKETS 3.15 3.15
FRGT FREIGHT CHARGES 14.29 14.29
$284.28
$284.28

Phone #
(562) 941-4474
Fax #
(562) 941-4477
E-mail
oscar@primeresourcenow.com

 

Good stuff.

Yes, Rob had some manifold to vacuum and others blocked off.

I am sorry in my prior descriptions I jumped from photos of Rob’s set ups and hose diagrams and just leaped into the required hardware without explaining connection hookups.

On his four stack of 103's (3-ways) going from front to back

1) Turbo Control (sole boost pressure inlet source), an NC valve; pressure source inlet from engine side (front); control signal out fender side (back); top screened exhaust vent; (as this was an SM, no need to blank any side manifold ports).

2) Charge Relief, (sole vacuum inlet source) an NO valve (requires running value backwards, vacuum in exhaust, exhaust out front inlet); top - vacuum, sucked out top (normally vent); front - exhaust to intake manifold; back - control signal; (as this was an SM, no need to blank any side manifold ports).

3) Charge Control, an NC valve; manifolded vacuum supply Turbo Control (vacuum) (No. 4), front side capped; exhaust out top to intake manifold, (plumbed with No. 2 with “T”; front – control signal; back – capped.

4) Turbo Control (vacuum), an NC valve; manifolded vacuum supply back side – to vacuum source (used a “T” to link vacuum to No. 2; front side open to No. 3; front – control signal, back – capped, top screened exhaust vent.

If using 104 M’s (4-ways); I had noted some advantages in hook up, may look a little cleaner:
1) 4-ways can be configured as a 4-way not needed for our application or either an NC or NO 3-way.
2) Inlet and NC control ports are on front face, thus no need for extra space behind for plumbing except for NO and exhaust functions.
3) CC No 2 can get vacuum from side port manifolded to No 3 and 4 as can be hooked up in NO configuration. Saves some fittings and potential leaks.
4) I do not fully understand function of two exhaust ports on the 104, whether they exhaust together or top only in tandem with relief spring blow off (not a function we need).

 

I had alos considered a manifold comprised of 1 x 103 M (with pressure through side), plug, and 1 x 104 M's configued for NO, and 2 x 103 M's all three ganged for vacuum feed in back side. Very clean feed set-up.

 

I was just about to let loose serious torment for that but I realized I have this sitting beside my *******....

http://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Bearin...5988867&sr=1-2

Both volumes. LOL

Dave

 

Sorry, I haven't read the last couple pages of this thread, but this jumps out at me. The service temperature of Viton is typically well north of 180°F. 180C perhaps?

Dave

 

I did request the hi temp solenoids and maybe thats why it took so long to come in. Maybe mine will have markings to signify this? ill post when they come in. I didnt see the last few pages of this thread either and here I was doin all this damn research when it was done for me!

 

I am just quoting Fabco-air

"For long-term, continuous operation in a range of +150°F to +180°F, the Viton seal option can provide the benefits of reliable leak-free
operation and extended durability. For applications exceeding +180°F, please consult factory."

 

The maximum service temperature of Viton® is 300°F (149°C).

Keep this thread alive!

 

just quoting the solenoid manufacturer on what they will rate their seals for; standard seal 150°F, Viton seal 180°F, coil rated to 221°F. At 300°F the the coil will overheat and short and the epoxy coil potting will start to degrade.