Custom replacement solenoid system
The thing is, it's not that hard to make this for yourself. Extend the harnesses(a little soldering)
Make a bracket(torch, vise, drill)
Mount the solenoids and run some vacuum lines.
But, I'm as lazy as anyone so.....
+5 someone make this easy for me.
Make a bracket(torch, vise, drill)
Mount the solenoids and run some vacuum lines.
But, I'm as lazy as anyone so.....
+5 someone make this easy for me.
I think there needs to be a detailed step by step wiring and plumbing instructional for his project. This shouldn't be something to profit off of.
I've read the entire thread about 3 times, and have a fairly good idea how this goes together. However there are a few photos of incorrect setups and corrections that could lead to problems if you're not careful.
I like the 104 setup, eliminating the extra lines seems like a good idea.
I think I'll try to draw up an exploded view of the solenoid system and a step by step as I attempt to build a set so I can give a clear and concise set of instructions and images to follow.
it could be a few days though before I figure it out and draw stuff up so please bear with me.
I've read the entire thread about 3 times, and have a fairly good idea how this goes together. However there are a few photos of incorrect setups and corrections that could lead to problems if you're not careful.
I like the 104 setup, eliminating the extra lines seems like a good idea.
I think I'll try to draw up an exploded view of the solenoid system and a step by step as I attempt to build a set so I can give a clear and concise set of instructions and images to follow.
it could be a few days though before I figure it out and draw stuff up so please bear with me.
I have BNR's and plan to stay with them, so this sounds really interesting especially if stock solenoids wear out due running higher boosts levels, above 15psi or even higher?
Your 200$ price tag isnt enough to buy the materials let alone put in the time to come out with diagrams for plumbing. Theres enough information in this thread to build your own and its extremely easy.
I'd really like to do this
Would be nice with some BNR's
i realize the cost now, i now have the funds necessary, but what i dont have is time to dive into the rats nest and wiring and figure it all out. thats why i wanted to see if someone did this yet to take as much guess work out of it
The AUTO DOCTOR
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 0
From: South Side of ATL. Ga.
im installing a 4 soleniod setup a friend got way way back in the 2nd group buy. reading on the o.p. it said it came with instruction. well i guess he lost them as there none in the box. anybody got a copy of them and want to send me a copy?
Hate to say but it sits on the bench. My problem is that I have a perfectly running FD, so I have little incentive to put her under. In the mean time I collect parts, build sub-systems and change mine mind and do it again. So I build up a fuel system with brand new injectors reworked by RC, new lines, pressure damper, regulator, filter system, modified OEM fuel rails, but now I am stuck on the LIM/UIM. I purchased an Xccesive LIM and was very disappointed with the casting quality, undersized ports, uneven sizes of runners, etc . that I figured that JDM units may be better I know own 3 UIM/LIM setups and sit debating which to send off for porting and cerama coating. Even on the solenoids, I have lost direction first all 103's like Rob, now figure best 9at lest cleanest look install) maybe some combinations of 103 and 104's At the end of the day I will have many like new parts for sale. Too much money, not enough time.
<SNIP>
All four of the solenoids are marked Fabco Air, but I could only find identification numbers on the two closest to the firewall in the attached pics. They are both marked 103M. These are the TCA Vacuum and CCA solenoids.
In order (from front of car to firewall) they are TCA Pressure, CRV, CCA, and TCA Vacuum.
They all look the same, but strange I couldn't find ID markings on the TCA Pressure and CRV solenoids.
--Jeff
All four of the solenoids are marked Fabco Air, but I could only find identification numbers on the two closest to the firewall in the attached pics. They are both marked 103M. These are the TCA Vacuum and CCA solenoids.
In order (from front of car to firewall) they are TCA Pressure, CRV, CCA, and TCA Vacuum.
They all look the same, but strange I couldn't find ID markings on the TCA Pressure and CRV solenoids.
--Jeff
If the TCA Pressure Solenoid (closest to the FRONT of the car), does NOT have a tee-connector, and is electrically controlled by the stock BROWN colored solenoid connector (Rob marked them with "red" tape), then this should be marked Solenoid E.
Thus, per Rob's included instructions, the last solenoid (closest to firewall, with the tee-connector) should be TCA Vaccum, and in effect replaces the solenoid that's bolted to the Air Control Valve (ACV) on the LIM, and should be electricaly controlled by this solenoid's electrical connector, and NOT marked Solenoid E.
Please see the attached marked image, with my corrections in PURPLE/MAGENTA.
I'm asking because I'm keeping the STOCK rat's nest, the other four (4) solenoids, and would like to get all feeds/plumbing from their respective rat's nest metal lines.
Thanks,
:-) neil
Anyone planning on using the 4 ways BEWARE!
The setup posted by linnadawg will not function properly.
the 104m works differently than expected.
side ports = IN
Front port (no wires) = N.O. port
Back port (wires) = N.C. Port
Top = EXH
De-energized: IN<->N.O. N.C.<->EXH
Energized: IN<->N.C. N.O.<->EXH
N.C. and N.O. NEVER connect.
The UPSIDE is that you only need ONE 104M to work as the CCA and CRV solenoid.
- supply vacuum to IN ports.
- supply y-pipe pressure to EXH port
- route CRV to the N.O. port
- route CCA to the N.C. port
Just saved $64 and knocked off a valve!!!
The setup posted by linnadawg will not function properly.
the 104m works differently than expected.
side ports = IN
Front port (no wires) = N.O. port
Back port (wires) = N.C. Port
Top = EXH
De-energized: IN<->N.O. N.C.<->EXH
Energized: IN<->N.C. N.O.<->EXH
N.C. and N.O. NEVER connect.
The UPSIDE is that you only need ONE 104M to work as the CCA and CRV solenoid.
- supply vacuum to IN ports.
- supply y-pipe pressure to EXH port
- route CRV to the N.O. port
- route CCA to the N.C. port
Just saved $64 and knocked off a valve!!!
ill have to verify that the crv and cca switch at the same time
So far everyone that had installed my kit has been pleased and loved the result.
Many reviews said that the 3500 transitioning is almost NON-existence. Please check out my GB HERE
-AzEKnightz
Really???
You didn't think that, maybe, you'd be better off just PMing the guy that started making a version of this, instead of bumping an old thread for a product that is no longer produced by a member who hasn't been seen in YEARS???
Sorry to come off like a jerk, but seriously... Lets think about the pertinence of the bump before doing it..
You didn't think that, maybe, you'd be better off just PMing the guy that started making a version of this, instead of bumping an old thread for a product that is no longer produced by a member who hasn't been seen in YEARS???
Sorry to come off like a jerk, but seriously... Lets think about the pertinence of the bump before doing it..
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 333
Likes: 0
From: SJ, CA
If anyone's truly interested another group buy is starting.
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr...956-new-post//
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr...956-new-post//
